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Brake Help!

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jgouds

Proven Member
36
1
Jun 2, 2014
Calgary, AB, Canada
Hey all,
I did a bunch of research prior to tackling this job and had the Haynes manual watching over me - I replaced all the rotors and pads on my 1g yesterday and now I have little to no braking power. Here's what I did -
replaced brake pads and rotors (I opened the bleeder when pushing in the calipers)
pumped brakes and topped up reservoir with DOT3
Bled the brakes in the order: passenger rear, drivers rear, passenger front, drivers front
Now pedal travel is all the way to the floor before brakes even start to be applied. When I pump them I get some pedal feel back - but it goes away quickly. I've rechecked the fluid reservoir and it remains full.
I understand that the symptoms point to a bad master cylinder - I was fairly sure I took the precautions to prevent damage to it.
One more thing - I went out and tried breaking hard to see if it was just an issue with the pads or rotors needing to be worn in. Felt the rotors after: 3/4 were hot while the drivers front was still cool to touch. Anything that might cause a caliper piston to seize after doing work like this? I greased all the slides with silicon grease so it shouldn't be catching on those. Also - is there anyway to diagnose a bad master cylinder?
Apologies for the story - just trying to be as descriptive as possible.
 
I don't think you bled the brakes correctly. Sounds like you've still got a lot of air in the lines.

Get a bleeder gun ($30ish? Harbor freight) or a buddy to help you.

Put the gun on the bleeder and open the valve. Pump until there aren't any more bubbles.

If you have a buddy: open the valve and have him press the brake pedal. When you get a good stream of fluid (3-5 seconds?) close the valve while the stream is running. Keep foot on brake until the valve is closed.

Top off the cylinder between brakes so you don't run out of fluid or you'll suck air into the lines.

Hth
 
Well to push the cylinders back in I was under the impression that if you didn't open the bleeders it will force fluid back into the master, blow the seals and wreck it. I bleed with a friend. Open bleeder - pump brake, close bleeder, let pedal back up. Do it until there isn't any air coming out
 
I appreciate the help though, guys. I am going to bleed it again and see how she goes. Thankya!
 
You are closing the bleeder before he gets to the bottom of the stroke correct? And if any time during the bleed process you let the master get low (below the valve) you have to start over. I've never opened a bleeder to push the caliper pistons back in. Not in 30 years.
 
Gravity bleed them. Put a container under each wheel open them all up and run a bottle of fluid through. Make sure you tightened them all back up too. If you forgot one youd lose pedal from a lack of pressure. Ive also never cracked a bleeder to push pistons in i also use one of these at work to make it easier.
 

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I have never had good luck with those brake bleeder tools from the auto part stores. The hoses do not fit well and seem to only last for one good bleed session because they swell. I bleed my brakes regularly from track use. I have found the following tool helpful with a partner. The hose fits nice and snug while lasting over a year thus far.

http://www.oakos.com/Merchant2/merc...KEBOTTLE&Category_Code=UNIV_FLUIDS_BRAKEFLUID
 
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