BOV Re-Circulation Tube = CEL?

[Mist3r Spool]

I'm coming across an odd issue. I recently removed the side and lower honeycombs from my stock MAF (one got smashed, don't ask) and left the adjustment screw untouched as well as the center honeycomb. So I start to drive around and the CEL comes on after I get off the freeway and get to idle (with re-circ tube connected)-I get the Airflow code (sorry, I don't have the code on me right now). I do have my low throttle 1K setting on my SAFC2 @ +33, since it'll idle poorly if I go any lower (probably due to having the honeycombs out). I believe that the drastic change in correction when coming to idle is throwing the CEL. I marked the depth of the adjustment screw on the MAF and tried backing it out flush (like the RRE settings) as well as all the way in and it makes no difference, the CEL still comes on. This is the odd part though, when I remove the re-circulation tube, and vent my BOV to the atmosphere, the CEL never comes on, at least it hasn't after a week. I'm thinking of picking up a GM MAF & MAF-T so I could achieve a blow-through setup but I already have a SAFC2, is it a waste? Any ideas on how I could fix this the right way would be much appreciated.

 

[95blackGsTurbo]

+33 is so far off it isn't even funny. With a 16g and 550's I am only correcting 19 at idle and that is for a reason. Turning the fuel up that far at 1k is just band-aiding the problem. Have someone hook a scantool up to it. Check the code again and have someone actually diagnose the problem. You shouldn't have set a code off just by removing the honeycombs. Tons of people do it without problems. Could just be a coincidence that this happened after you did that. But get it checked out professionally. There is no reason for that much correction or any correction for that matter on a your turbo/fuel setup. I would highly recommend a FPR though. With one will make a huge difference at idle.

 

[Mist3r Spool]

+33 is so far off it isn't even funny. With a 16g and 550's I am only correcting 19 at idle and that is for a reason. Turning the fuel up that far at 1k is just band-aiding the problem. Have someone hook a scantool up to it. Check the code again and have someone actually diagnose the problem. You shouldn't have set a code off just by removing the honeycombs. Tons of people do it without problems. Could just be a coincidence that this happened after you did that. But get it checked out professionally. There is no reason for that much correction or any correction for that matter on a your turbo/fuel setup. I would highly recommend a FPR though. With one will make a huge difference at idle.

I thought +33 is too rich as well but the guys at RRE don't seem to think so.