boostin only 5lbs ??

[mustangnick]

hey my gf car is a 95 eclipse awd turbo its only boostin 5 lbs ive checked for a boost leak ive found some clamps loose so i tightend them up and still 5lbs
and im getting ready to make a tool to check the for a boost leak when the car is not on but if its not a boost leak what else could it be
wastegate?
turbo?
it has a 16g on it wit a fmic,mbc,greddy bov,

thanks nick

 

[habitatguy187]

If it's not a boost leak, which is probably is, but if it isn't, then it could be the wastegate spring being worn out. But 95% of the time it's a boost leak.

 

[mustangnick]

whats a other way to test a boost leak then beside the tool that ive been told wit a air pump or something ?

 

[habitatguy187]

whats a other way to test a boost leak then beside the tool that ive been told wit a air pump or something ?

The only other thing you can do is take some carb cleaner and spray down all your vacuum hoses and intercooler piping, if you hear your engine jumping or revving up then you've found your leak. But there's a lot of places that you can't really test for like that such as throttle body shaft seals and it's kinda hard to hit the intake manifold.

But the tester is the easiest way to go about it. If you don't want to make one I'll sell you one for $20 shipped.

Here's the link to make one, IC Pipe Tester

 

[mustangnick]

ok thanks ill try to see if i can make it my self first 16g should be 2 1/2 inch right or should i just use her rubber peice that already on the turbo and just get the pvc end cap ?
sry im new to the dsm scene
and i put the air through the intake side of the turbo corect? or should i put it up at the tb pipe

 

[habitatguy187]

1. Don't use the peice that's already on the intake, just buy a piece of radiator hose.
2. Yes, hook it up to the intake side of the turbo.

Do a search for, "boost leak test" and you'll find some good tips. A soapy water bottle is a great one.

 

[mikelv]

hey my gf car is a 95 eclipse awd turbo its only boostin 5 lbs ive checked for a boost leak ive found some clamps loose so i tightend them up and still 5lbs
and im getting ready to make a tool to check the for a boost leak when the car is not on but if its not a boost leak what else could it be
wastegate?
turbo?
it has a 16g on it wit a fmic,mbc,greddy bov,

thanks nick

Welcome Nick, happy to link you to some useful help. There are plenty of readings; you just have to donate the time. Let us know if you have any questions on it.

Boost problems can come from a number different things ranging from a BCS, to a bad reading off your boost gauge.


Boost is too low, is there a fix?

1000 AAQ - Common problems & fixes

My boost is not strong enough, is there a fix?

1000 AAQ - Common problems & fixes

Here is a link to it all. Read through some of the index, then read it again. After that, feel free to hit us back with your concerns. Good luck!


1000 Already Answered Questions - Index page

Visual Frequently Answered Questions - Home Page

 

[mustangnick]

do i have to have the car 30 past tdc? and if so wats the easyest way to figure it is on 30 past tdc ?

 

[mikelv]

Does the car feel like it has less power?
When you are only boosting 5lbs, does the car shudder? Anything?
Also, what is your MBC set for and do you have any sort of engine management?

 

[mustangnick]

Does the car feel like it has less power?
When you are only boosting 5lbs, does the car shudder? Anything?
Also, what is your MBC set for and do you have any sort of engine management?

yes less power
shudder no
at idle its idles weird but she said its normal feels like it has cams in it to me the way it idles
and shes running a stock ecu she use to have she use to have the dsm link but she sold it
and mbc is set for i dunno bc it just turns open and close, i guess also she has the apexi controler
im not too up on the dsms so im a muscle guy

 

[mikelv]

yes less power
shudder no
at idle its idles weird but she said its normal feels like it has cams in it to me the way it idles
and shes running a stock ecu she use to have she use to have the dsm link but she sold it
and mbc is set for i dunno bc it just turns open and close, i guess also she has the apexi controler
im not too up on the dsms so im a muscle guy

Well, knowing she has an AFC is an important piece of information.

Most likely the WG actuator is causing you problems or the BCS. The poor idle problem is most associated with the tuning of the car and the AFC settings.

Here is a tech article I wrote on the AFC, and another by another guy on here. This will let you know what an Apex'i SAFC is and what it does.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...c-mid-point-correction-factors-operation.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-tuning-ecu/58403-definitive-piggyback-tuning-guide.html

Here is a link explaining what the BSC is and does.

1000 AAQ - Common problems & fixes



Now for the boost controller here is how you need to hook it up. There should be an arrow on it as to which side goes to the wastegate, and which side goes to the intake.

Run you a vacuum hose from the nipple on the intake manifold (sometimes this is where you run the vacuum line for the BOV, so you'll need a vacuum T) to the controller, then simply hook the other side to the wastegate.

Also, if you end up needing a new wastegate actuator it's not that big or costly of a job. Depending on how hard and how many miles are on the turbo, it might be. Let us know.


For adjustment of the boost controller, it's simple. All it is, is a spring that regulates airflow pressure. You tighten it all the way down (clock-wise) it'll allow complete free flow of boost, and the more you release the spring and close the hole (counter-clock-wise) the less boost pressure you'll have. The least amount of boost pressure you can have is what the wastegate spring is rated for. Stock spring is 12 psi I believe, so someone chime in here.

 

[mustangnick]

ok so all the way down is full flow ight its set for all the way down
and her bcs is by passed bc she has the mbc
i still gotta see if she has a boost leak but iam gonna check the wg i have a feeling its that
gez this make me not wanna boost my mustang
oh and the idle problem she has crower cams she just let me know about that last night bc i had a feeling that it was her tune not letting her boost all the way
so its eather now a boost leak or the wg
can i tell it is through the apexi safc ????
and to get it 30 past tdc do i need to have it there ?

 

[mikelv]

ok so all the way down is full flow right its set for all the way down

If the controller is all the way open, then the damn thing is either broken or the Wastegate is shot.

can i tell it is through the apexi safc ????
and to get it 30 past tdc do i need to have it there ?

I don't understand your questions, please try and use proper grammar on the site. The moderators really hammer down on people for that. We try and create a professional and technical forum here, so the next guy who has your problem can just search and use your thread as a helpful piece of info.

Please clarify?

 

[mustangnick]

can i tell if what is wrong with the car through the apexi controller
and to do the boost leak test do i need to set it 30deg past tdc to do the test

 

[mikelv]

can i tell if what is wrong with the car through the apexi controller
and to do the boost leak test do i need to set it 30deg past tdc to do the test

No, the AFC does not have any diagnostic features integrated into the system. If you are looking for a good diagnostic system, I would look into a logger such as Pocketlogger. It will allow you to observe many critical engine parameters and functions.


digital tuning, inc.

As for engine position, my anser is YES. Here is your reference.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...-boost-leak-test-how-boostpro-net-tester.html

 

[No_Skillz]

I agree with all points mentioned but lets make some things easier here. Here is a suggestions of steps to take to find your problems in the shortest time possible.

1. Do a boost leak test properly, with an air compressor, boost leak tester, and a spray-bottle filled with soapy water. This fixes 99% of similar problems. You will be surprised at the massive leaks you will find. A system in GOOD condition will reach 20psi with this test and leak back down to 10psi in >10 seconds.

When you do this, you need to max out your MBC. Remember to turn it back down afterwards! You do not have to worry about the motor being 30* post-TDC. Just make sure you are not at TDC - basically, if it will pressurize, you're good. If not, just give the motor a quick crank.

2. Again... turn MBC back down!

3. If this does not fix the problem, it's time to test the wastegate. Hook up the air compressor used in step1 directly to the port on the wastegate and see what PSI it opens up at. It should be somewhere around 10-12.

4. If the wastegate is fine, it's time to check the turbo. Take a look at the compressor fins and check for shaft play and oil leakage.

5. Re-install your MBC. Do NOT use the BOV line. Your pressure source should be as close to the compressor as possible. A popular way to do this with a 16g is to tap the J-pipe for a small nipple.

 

[project98dsm]

I'm having the same problem. I took off my Joe P MBC and installed an HKS EVC 5 and now when I boost it's only showing around 4-5 psi on my boost gauge (not on the EVC display, I heard they read a little low). My car idles and runs fine just driving around normally but under boost it starts to shudder and stall until I let off the gas pedal. I'm narrowing it down to a boost leak, but I'm open to any other ideas from anyone. Thanks guys.

Update:

I was coming back from Wal-Mart and my car threw a code...haven't had a chance to get the code read, but I'm thinking it might be my plugs or possibly o2 sensors. I'm expecting a code for o2 sensors or something like a random misfire code. But I'm still going to try to test for a boost leak. Start hitting back on these posts guys, thanks.

 

[mikelv]

Let us know when you get the code.

 

[project98dsm]

I woke up this morning to go to PT and when I started my car my CEL didn't stay on. I don't know what the deal is. I didn't unhook the battery or anything, just started the car, and no CEL...I know I shouldn't even be putt-putting around the base 25-30 miles an hour for the whole 2 miles it is from my barracks to my company area, but it's the only transportation I have next to bumming rides. If you check out my mod list you'll see I have no management whatsoever. Yes, I deserve a good swift kick in the backside. That's another reason I think it might be either my plugs or o2. Sorry for the long post, just wanted to get the tuning situation on the table. Or lack of, rather.

 

[project98dsm]

The CEL finally came back on and I got P1105. Apparently my fuel pressure solenoid has shyt the bed on me. I'm going to take it off and clean the lines and see what that does. I've viewed several other posts that lead to this possibly being my problem. I'm going to start trying to find out how to build a dependable boost leak tester and and go that route as well. Will keep you guys posted.