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boost = slow

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TheCrazyDSM'r

20+ Year Contributor
252
1
May 11, 2003
Tokyo, Asia
Ok second time writting all this.

Anyways, my car was down for a long time. I had a problem but fixed it recently.
So I'm going to try to explain my problem as best as I can, hopefully it all makes sense. If it doesn't just ask me and I'll try again. So here goes.. .

My car used to be set up with MAFT and SAFC, but I got a AEM EMS, so I took out the SAFC but left the MAFT because I'm not going to use speed density at this moment. I also took out my 880cc injectors and put back in stock 450cc. So I set the MAFT 450cc. 0% correction. (There is a good reason for doing that, but it has nothing to do with this.) Well I found that now the car is running peg rich. So I leaned out the MAFT Base to 9(-30%) and everthing else to 8(-35%). Now it idles fine, but while I'm drving rich again, and if boost comes in it makes things worse, no speed.( I know it is because it is running so rich)

Things I have checked:
I checked timing, car is in time and no problems there.
Checked all Vaccume lines, they are good as well.
Checked Wiring to the MAFT, good
Could it be that I did something wrong when I removed the SAFC????

If you guys have any idea, it would help a lot. I'm sure.



now that I posted I think this might get moved....
but I think it is a tuning issue.
 
Is the AEM installed in the car? Do you have access to a stock maf sensor? Have you checked your fuel pressure?
 
AEM EMS is not in the car, I forgot to say that, I'm going to let a local dyno shop install it and tune it. And I do have access to a Stock maf, but I don't think it will fit on the turbo. I mean it won't fit because I have only the stock intake pipe and the turbo is much bigger than stock.
 
Sometimes you can cut the stock pipe and it will fit. You should look into that. The maft isn't very accurate and has been known to cause problems if it isn't properly calibrated.
 
Do a real boost leak test.

Also there is one wire that has to be cut to install the S-AFC, if it wasn't reconnected after the S-AFC was removed the car won't run right.
 
Did I boost leak test before I re-started the car, all is good in that department. I'll check the wires again, but I'm pretty sure everything it good.
 
The wire you actually cut to make the SAFC work is the MAF signal. So if its not hooked up, you won't get a MAF reading. Then your car will just run like crap.
 
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