Boost restrictor plug?

[scrappys93talon]

Ok so I don't have one of theses since replacing all my boost lines, but, what is the restrictor plug in the boost line that comes from the compressor to the t between the wg and boost selenoid for?

 

[northernawd]

by taking out the restrictor you will see a psi or two of extra boost as it won't be restricting anymore.

 

[randman2011]

The stock boost controller works by "bleeding off" pressure from the wastegate to raise boost. When the actuator sees its threshold boost, it opens the wastegate to hold the pressure there. THe stock controller dumps some of that boost back into the intake to drop the pressure that the actuator "sees." The restrictor keeps "too much" pressure from bleeding off. Removing it makes more air pressure bleed off so that the wastegate actuator sees less boost and stays closed longer. There is no downside to removing it.

 

[scrappys93talon]

No I'm not talking about the plug in the bcs port I've already done that mod, I'm talking about a metal plug with a hole in the middle of it that is inside the boost line coming off the compressor to the t between the wastegate and compressor

 

[randman2011]

That limits the amount of compressed air into the whole system. A smaller, more restrictive plug allows less boost into the BCS and raises the boost limit of the factory setup. People have swapped in the more restrictive EVO "boost pills" to take the factory boost control system well above 20-25 psi. Removing it would drop your upper boost limit if you're still using a bleeder type boost control system. If you're using a MBC, it makes no difference since they can hold more boost anyway.

 

[scrappys93talon]

At this moment I'm using the stock bcs and don't have a boost pill in my boost line, which explains why my boost tops out at 13psi and dropps back to 11psi, before I replaced the lines I was making a strong hold on 14psi and never backed down, you wouldn't have any of these "boost pills" would you

 

[randman2011]

That's not something that people normally keep. Upgrading to an MBC is so cheap and easy and the gains are pretty phenomenal even at stock boost levels, so that's usually the way people go. I understand why people keep the stock setup, though. My best recommendation is to just buy something like this, which is both an upgrade and stock replacement. And pretty cheap.

 

[92GVR4SC]

replace the rubber lines and add a manual boost bleed valve. An after market boost gauge is a good idea too, so you know how much psi you're pushing into the beast.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Thats what I run. I know there are up sides and down sides to manual bleeder boost contollers but i haven't had a problem with mine. And the controversy over mounting it in the cab or under the hood. Mine is in the cab and works great. Maybe I'm lucky, but I am not the lucky type unless it is bad luck.

 

[92GVR4SC]

I had an in car valve many ages ago, and I found that I had more boost creep and spiking. I really think it's better to keep it closer to the turbo wastegate actuator. However, you do what works for you.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Good tip to watch for. I haven't noticed any spikes unless a 1 lb difference every now and then would be considered a spike. I like the boost down on my car and if need be I can "roll" the knob a click or two or three and up my boost on the fly. Just my own preference and each to there own. WAY back in the day, I used to have an adjustable brake bias valve in my V-8 Vega for better stopping power to the front brakes. I kinda liked it in the cabin like my controller.

 

[scrappys93talon]

Ok so with my oem boost pill being gone, what can I replace inline to restrict the flow of air going to the bcs, I'm just wanting my strong 14psi back, since that restrictor plug is gone between the compressor and t my beast has been acting more like bi***....