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Boost Leak Test Trouble

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bewstin

Proven Member
131
0
Dec 4, 2012
Groton, Connecticut
Alrighty, so basically my problem is my turbo spools to 4-5psi, and wont spool to it's setting (12psi) until the RPMS get up to like 4500-5k. I feel I've narrowed down the problem to a Boost leak. Problem is, I've never properly been shown how to do a Boost leak test other than what I've read or seen on the forums. I made a boost leak tester a few months back, works good, and I've used it before to find major leaks. Right now I'm pretty sure I'm chasing down a small leak, but cant get the system to hold pressure. Now, when i fill the BLT with pressure using a air hose off my compressor, it pumps up the system great, But I cant get it to hold any psi. It just leaks out of my valve cover breather hose, pretty slow but enough to not let it even register 10psi on the air hose gauge. I imagine this is because the pressure from the intake manifold is leaking through the PCV valve into the valve cover. I can't really hear anything else leaking, but it's hard to tell because of the leakage from the valve cover. I've triple checked all my vacuum lines and inter cooler couplers.
The reason i think i have a small vacuum leak:
---Rough first 20 seconds after a cold start, w/ boost gauge bouncing between 5 and 15 vacuum, feels like it misfiring, AFR is solid 10.0. After about 15 seconds AFR goes up to 12ish and idle smooths out a little bit. after about 5-10 more seconds AFR goes up to 14.5 and car idle's smooth. Once car is up to temp, vacuum bounces between 19 and 21 vacuum slowly, with the AFR bouncing between 14.7 -14.3 constantly. I'm pretty sure the rough start is because of the EGR delete and its cold outside.
--- Front o2 is brand new and working, Coolant temp sensor is brand new and working, Brand new BPR7ES plugs, and NGK wires.
--- Brand new FP manifold, so no pre-turbo exhaust leaks. All bolts from manifold and head and manifold to turbo are on and tight.
---Boost lag, WOT in any gear other than 1st, the turbo will spool to 5psi. Then when the rpm's get up to 4500 -5k the boost climbs to 12psi, which is where i have the MBC set to.
---AFR's are 10.0 in boost, whether I'm lightly on the throttle in boost or WOT, the AFR is 10.0 the whole time, until i get to 5k ish it hits 10.8, 11 at the most.
---Cruising AFR is 14.7-13.5 depending on hills or flat.
---Stock fuel system

So I'm lost, does it seem like a boost leak?? I'm getting very frustrated, this seems to be my last little problem before i go to get tuned. I'm waiting to put in my DSMlink v3 full, FIC 1200's , walbo 255, and Fuel labs FPR until my tune date which is 1/5/13. It's a 2 hour drive and will cost me 600$ between gas and the tune, which is why i want my car perfect before I get down there. Sorry for the novel, but the more you guys know the more you can help. Thanks
 
As of right now it seems to be fine, boosts up to 12psi. just seem to get fuel cut really easy even at lower rpms (3500+) under full boost in any gear other than 1st.

Yet somehow this seems "fine" to you LOL? It sounds like you still have a MASSIVE boost leak. Next time you test it your goal should be to build 20psi. It will naturally leak out pretty fast at that level, maybe 1psi every 1 or 2 seconds, but once it hits around 10psi it should take it awhile to leak the rest out. If not there's a problem somewhere.
 
Alright, tonight I'm gonna do a BLT. Replaced my PCV valve, all my intercooler couplers are tight, intake manifold gasket is brand new, HKS SSQV c-clip and o-ring is brand new. I'm thinking it may be throttle body related, but I'll find out tonight.

Replaced the PCV valve and the hose, still getting air leaking out of the valve cover breather and cant get the system to hold pressure.... Also blowing through the new PCV valve from intake manifold side to valve cover side with my mouth, it does leak very very very slow.
 
So today I changed the oil and put my stock crank pulley back on. Did another boost leak test as well. I capped off the nipple on the intake manifold for the pcv, since even with the new pcv air was till leaking by it. With that done, when i pressurized the system i found nothing, other than the BISS screw was leaking very slowly. Couldnt get the system to hold pressure for long at all. Sprayed IC pipes, jpipe, throttle body, intake manifold with windex, and only the biss screw bubbled a tiny bit. I can hear air leaking, sounds like an internal wooshing noise comming from inside the engine. After spray and looking and feeling everywhere for about 2 hours, i simply could not find it. I popped off the oil cap and put my ear to the fill hole, while pressurizing the system i could hear the oil bubbling in the oil pan slowly (kinda like when u blow through a straw in a drink but much less bubbling). So, I'm stumped, i'm guessing something to do with bad valves or vavlestems possbily, letting boost into the crankcase??:ohdamn: This is starting to drive me insane, i just want to get rid of boost leaks so i can get my tune already!!! :banghead: Boost leak was done when the motor was cold, and i can imagine the rings are bad, they were gapped within spec (.008-.020, i gapped comp ring at .018 and scraper at .022) and the car has good compression. When i had the engine rebuild i did not have a valve job done, wonding if excessive carbon build up on the valves could cause my problems...
 
Ahh, well when i did the rebuild i capped all my emissions vacuum nipples and removed the charcoal canister. I just capped off the EGR valve instead of removing it completely.

It's kinda rare but they can get stuck open, allowing air from the IM to enter cylinder #4. If your compression test is good and the engine is fresh I don't know why else all your boost would leak out during the test. You should easily be able to pressurize to 25psi and it should take a good 45 seconds to leak to zero from there.
 
Something I haven't seen what is the the relation of the #1 piston to tdc? I've found doing a blt is nearly impossible at tdc.... Start to pressure the intake and rotate the crank pully thus rotating the motor... Do it very slowly and it should be able to build pressure at some point if you don't have leaks...

I'm thinking like 40* btdc for some reason.... But I could be wrong

Check this
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...-boost-leak-test-how-boostpro-net-tester.html
 
Last edited:
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