The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

boost leak test

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

coolrider2112

10+ Year Contributor
83
0
Jul 25, 2011
Sierra Vista, Arizona
Finally did a boost leak test and found a leak in the upper side mount intercooler piping and of course the two throttle nipples that i need to block off. Have to wait til later tonight to get the stuff but other then that how much of a difference you guys think this will make when i fix these leak problems? It was a pretty pretty leak At the IC piping. Do those throttle body nipples make a huge difgerence also?
 
well it depends on how laggy the turbo was before and if there is anything else that could be leaking, but if the leaks were pretty bad then it should make a world of difference. by the way did you by chance check the fuel injector seals also.
 
Yah I also did the soapy water spray trick to see if anything else was leaking. I also did that on the injectors and no leaks from there so I believe those are the only leaks I have.
 
Just did a boost leak test. I put the tester on the turbo and it would not hold pressure. So i bypassed the turbo and tested my intercooler pipes no leaks, held pressure. Why wont it hold at the turbo? I hear the air coming out but cant tell where its coming from.
 
Just did a boost leak test. I put the tester on the turbo and it would not hold pressure. So i bypassed the turbo and tested my intercooler pipes no leaks, held pressure. Why wont it hold at the turbo? I hear the air coming out but cant tell where its coming from.

At what point of the intercooler piping were you testing and then it was holding? The j-pipe, post intercooler, before or after the BOV, etc?
 
The only thing between the inlet and outlet of the turbo are the turbo seals and the j-pipe gasket.
 
In order of likelihood (IMO),

1) Poor seal between boost leak tester and compressor inlet.

2) J-pipe gasket.

3) Some part of the j-pipe to WGA boost reference line.

4) I doubt bad turbo seals would leak enough air to keep any pressure at all from building but since it was mentioned I suppose it's possible.

If a leak is large enough to keep any pressure from building your car would be running like ass. If your car is running ok, start with first suggestion.

Edit: Have you tried feeling around with your hand to see where the air is leaking from?
 
I did try to feel around but was a bit difficult I was alone and boost tester has a tire valve stem so by the time I let go of the air chuck the air was gone. As for the j-pipe I didnt test it but I if it were leaking badly I would feel it cause my hands were in that area when testing. And I did put a new gasket on it. But will double check.
 
My solution for the holding on the tire chuck was to change over to:

Tire Chuck with Lock-On Lever

I also added on one of these to control the air flow/pressure, used the gauge on the boost tester to show the pressure and not over pressure the system:

Brass Air Inline Regulator

Then I could spray soapy water, look and feel around as needed.

Hope these suggestions help you come up with your own solution.
 
I also added on one of these to control the air flow/pressure, used the gauge on the boost tester to show the pressure and not over pressure the system:

Brass Air Inline Regulator

Then I could spray soapy water, look and feel around as needed.

Hope these suggestions help you come up with your own solution.

I use the exact same one along with a standard 1/4" quick hose coupler to attach the air hose to. I set the regulator on the air compressor to a little over 30psi. Then I adjust the HF inline valve to keep the pressure at a constant 30psi in the intake. It allows me to take my time and thoroughly check the entire intake for leaks.

I should mention that the HF valve is cheap and very poorly made. It leaks a significant amount of air when "fully closed." But for this purpose it does get the job done just fine.
 
My solution for the holding on the tire chuck was to change over to:

Tire Chuck with Lock-On Lever

I also added on one of these to control the air flow/pressure, used the gauge on the boost tester to show the pressure and not over pressure the system:

Brass Air Inline Regulator

Then I could spray soapy water, look and feel around as needed.

Hope these suggestions help you come up with your own solution.

Thanks for the suggestion will do.

I have this tester Pro-Kit: Eclipse/Talon/Laser:1G (90-94) 14b Turbo
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale Misc Left Over Parts
    Hello, I have a few left over parts for sale, these do not include shipping, please pm me for a...
    • r3dmak
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Alpha Injection Clinic 2200cc for 4G63 DSM/EVO
    I have a set of Alpha Injection Clinic 2200cc high z injectors for DSM/EVO. I am stepping up to...
    • spoolinpos
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • Wanted WTB 2g half rad
    ISO of a 2g koyo half rad or something equivalent.
    • Michael Wucher
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Coilover Springs
    Used pair of Eibach coilover springs from an old set of Ground Control coilovers. 2.5" inner...
    • RamenPride
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 4G63 Mitsubishi logo early valve cover
    Early Mitsubishi logo valvecover. “1990” All threaded holes are good. Has the 90 style vent...
    • Galant665
    • Updated:
Back
Top