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Boost leak near engine drivers side?

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killerwhale

15+ Year Contributor
128
0
Aug 10, 2007
Victoria, BC, Canada
Anyone have experience with a leak in this area? It sounds like it's coming from beside the timing belt but I can't figure out where it's coming from. Actually, when I start pumping air through the turbo inlet, the engine actually cranks. I can leave my tester on it hooked up to air and it won't go past 10psi. :ohdamn: Huge leak...
 
Get a spray bottle filled with water and dish soap and start spraying all over. Not all leaks make noise :coy:

Spray the couplers, hoses, throttle body + gaskets, fill the BISS hole, intake manifold gasket, injector seals, and anything else that sees vacuum or pressurized air.


Looking for bubbles
 
Found it. It's the gasket between the cam and pulley gear if that makes sense. It looks like a rubber oring.
 
That would be the camshaft cam seal.

If you were leaking air out of there, you have other issues to tend to. Is your PVC still good? How about your valve stem seals?
 
I'll test the pcv tomorrow (unscrew and plug with finger?) and look for how to test valve stem seals. Thanks.
 
I'll test the pcv tomorrow (unscrew and plug with finger?) and look for how to test valve stem seals. Thanks.

Unscrew the PVC and blow into it. If it leaks just put it back in but use some vice grips to pinch the vacuum line shut.
 
Actually after reading your reply again the valve leaks on both sides when I blow thru it but I can hear the metal piece inside moving around when I shake it. Is it not supposed to let any air thru on one side? Thanks.
 
I went down to the parts store today and got a fram pcv valve for $5 but after buying it I blew thru it and it was leaking a small amount of air so I shook it a little and the thing inside moved into a position where it was blocking air so I delicately put it in. Is that normal or did I get some kind of crap replacement? I'll do another Boost leak test when I'm off work tomorrow and let you know how it goes. Thanks.
 
If you delicately put it in, you better delicately start your car, and delicately drive it to.

You got crappy replacement. Get an OEM PCV valve. Parts store PCV valves are turds. They are only 8 or 12 dollars.
 
Yeah, spend the extra few bucks and get an oem one. It may not seem like a hugely important part but it can still hurt your performance and oem will be MUCH better and reliable than a fram or otherwise.
 
If you delicately put it in, you better delicately start your car, and delicately drive it to.

You got crappy replacement. Get an OEM PCV valve. Parts store PCV valves are turds. They are only 8 or 12 dollars.

I can appreciate your honesty LOL. When buying an oem part is that something I can get from Mitsubishi or Chrysler? I took my car to Mitsubishi once and they were like what are you doing here? Go to Chrysler.
 
I can appreciate your honesty LOL. When buying an oem part is that something I can get from Mitsubishi or Chrysler? I took my car to Mitsubishi once and they were like what are you doing here? Go to Chrysler.

That's because Dealers are idot's. I'm sure someone can provide you with a part number, and I'm sure you can find an OEM replacement on Ebay or an online store. With that being said, you're better off going with the one way check valve.
 
Called Mitsu here and they have one for $13. Going by there today anyway so I'll pick it up. Also, does anyone have any of those check valves they could mail me? I tried using the US Plastics check out but they say my credit card can't be verified.
 
Make sure to test the PVC valve at the dealer as well. I went thought about 4 until I found one that didn't leak.

Did you type in your credit info properly?
 
Yeah the mistake I made was using my cell phone number instead of the number attached to the card. I didn't realize the Internet verification system had your identity locked in that tightly. I ended up making the order via phone.

edit: doing boost leak test now. found the upper intercooler hose is leaking. Having a bad time finding another LOL.
 
Last edited:
Yeah the mistake I made was using my cell phone number instead of the number attached to the card. I didn't realize the Internet verification system had your identity locked in that tightly. I ended up making the order via phone.

edit: doing boost leak test now. found the upper intercooler hose is leaking. Having a bad time finding another LOL.

Time for a hard pipe kit :cool:

If you are running the stock throttle body, assume that your throttle body shaft seals are toast. These little bastards were the source of a pretty big boost leak on my car. New ones are 12 bucks through MachV. This requires you to rebuild your throttle body. It's easy, it just takes some time. You will need new throttle body gaskets for this. If you do end up doing this, be prepared to have to adjust your TPS. If you have any questions, feel free to ask, since the rebuild is still fresh in my mind (did it two weeks ago)
 
Time for a hard pipe kit :cool:

If you are running the stock throttle body, assume that your throttle body shaft seals are toast. These little bastards were the source of a pretty big boost leak on my car. New ones are 12 bucks through MachV. This requires you to rebuild your throttle body. It's easy, it just takes some time. You will need new throttle body gaskets for this. If you do end up doing this, be prepared to have to adjust your TPS. If you have any questions, feel free to ask, since the rebuild is still fresh in my mind (did it two weeks ago)

I just replaced the throttle shaft seals on my car today. They were a leaking pretty bad. I have fixed several boost leaks on my car. Now the only thing I seem to have left is coming from the crank case as well. I am going to check and make sure my pcv isnt the issue on mine as well. I have been trying to troubleshoot a fuel cut issue, and Just cant seem to get rid of it. Need to figure out how pressure is getting in my crank case and that is my last leak.

Did you ever find out if your pcv was the problem?
 
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