boost controller all the way up but still no boost help!!

[athens14]

ok so i just bought this p.o.s. talon from some dousche bag that lied about nearly everything on it. ANyway, there are too many things to name that are wrong on this car. So here goes number one, i had a homemade mbc but it broke, so i got really no boost. had a friend put in a new one today and tested it it out. STILL NO BOOST. even with the boost controller all the way up, i am getting nothing, well something but not as much as i should be. I get around 5-8 psi according to the pos stock boost gauge (have new one just gotta hook up vac line), and it does start boosting till about 3500 rpm. When i am boosting the car starts to sputter at around 5500 rpm, this thing is DOG SLOW i beat it in my mini van. I dont really know what the problem is. I am mostly worried about the turbo. IS it leaking? i am worried i just want a fast turbo dsm, is that too much ask for? one more thing is the tdo4 markings on the compressor housing mean a 14b turbo? im not really sure whats on my car cuz i bought it and things just started going wrong.
Second thing is my idle is terrible, i used to vent to atm, but i changed that and it still idles crappy. Itll shoot up to 1300 rpm then come back down to about 700 and sound like its going to die then go back up again. Ive tried the idle screw numerous times, no luck. I believe it has crower 264 cams in it, but im not really what to believe is on there and a 255 fuel pump, i know thats overkill but hey i bought it that way. stock 450 injectors, im just worried about this car, i love dsms but i just cant figure this stuff out. Please help me!!!

 

[Bigglesworth87]

First you should stop screwing with the boost settings until you get the boost gauge installed. You could really screw yourself if you do that. Is there an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator installed?? Have you checked for boost leaks?? Is the boost controller installed correctly??

 

[ZenkaiRacerDsM]

Im sorry to say it but you have a nice big 13g turbo on that bad boy.

For the idle problems I would take the throttle body off and clean the crap out of it with some carb cleaner or something similar, clean the fast idle valve (better yet replace it), and test the idle speed controller motor and replace if its bad. One of those is most likely the culprit.

As for the boost issues, if your sure the controller is hooked up correctly then you may have a bad wastegate actuator. What does it boost at when there is no controller hooked up at all? (run a line from the compressor outlet elbow nipple straight to the wastegate actuator nipple)

I would think that even if it was boosting more it would still be rather slow with a 13g on it.

 

[ddavisaf]

Stop.... stop now, it hurts.........


First off, get that 255 out of there.
Get your boost gauge installed.
Cams will change your idle, so lets hope that's not what's in there because it doesn't seem like the guy that owned the car before you knew his head from his...... foot.

Your 13b turbo (14b is tdo5H) is slow. You won't go fast till that get's upgraded.
If you're going to mod then you need to get a logger and fuel management. Not to mention injectors.

You need to test your ISC concerning your idle. And do a boost leak test.

Post back AFTER you've got your gauge in there, done a boost leak test, and checked your ISC.

 

[athens14]

so ill get ym gauge installed today, ill look up how to do boost leak test, and then ill look at the the isc, not to mention ill clean the tb and all that jazz, im really worried about this cuz this guy on ebay dicked me over with this car, im not sure whats in it or whats not, car idles ok at 1100 when you first start it, but when it gets up to temp it idles all over the place, is boost leak test hard, if it is boost leak how do i fix it? what do you think the total cost of this will be in order to get it running correctly? how do i mess with the wastegate flapper? im new to this stuff but VERY VERY interested. the guy who owned the car before even listed on ebay that this car had a ported and clipped 14b turbo in it. but i guess not. i will keep up to date posts concerning this issue. thanks ALOT for the help guys.


Im still concerned about the stuttering up top, i mean i cant even get it to redline without it feeling like the car is going to break down! is this because of the boost leak or what? im very very pissed off about this car right now, thought i was getting a gem but i guess not, instead i got slapped in the face! heres a link to stuff thats supposed to be in my car but im not too sure. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4557907224&ssPageName=ADME:B:EOAB:US:6


one more thing, is the isc the idel screw on the throttle body? thanks for the help.

 

[ddavisaf]

Feel free to pm me with any questions you may have.


Boost leak test is simple. You'll hear air escaping through wherever the leak is. If that's the case and it's a pipe, resecure the pipe. If it's the tb or intake, new gaskets are needed. Let us know where the leaks are from if you have any and we'll help you from there.
If you just got the car, you need to do the timing belt. We all always do

You're drowning your car in fuel right now because of the lack fuel injectors and control.

 

[athens14]

ok os i should get bigger injectors, or just ditch the 255 and get the 190? do i gotta make one of those boost leak testers that are found on this web site or can i do it by ear? timiing belt is changed already gatorbacks all around, so should i do the boost leak test before i clean my throttle body or should i clean it then do the test? whats the deal on that flapper? is it an easy fix? i gotta go back to work now ill be back at 300 or so. ill let you know how it goes thanks.

 

[ddavisaf]

As to the fuel, it's your decision. Most people can hit their hp/torque range on a 190. That's something you're going to have to figure out yourself depending on what you're looking at running.

Clean the throttle body first. Then you can either make a boost leak tester, or buy one. You have to use one of these.

The flapper is related to the wastegate actuator. What happens is the arm will come off and the flapper will stay open, or the actuator went bad holding the flapper open. It's not hard to fix if it's off, if the actuator is bad you'll have to buy a new one unless someone here knows how to fix them (I don't.).

 

[athens14]

ok will do that, is it hard ot get the wastegate off? how do i test if its bad or not? and how do these cars take to fuel injector cleaner that you buy at a gas station? will that clear up some top end issues? keep me posted

 

[athens14]

ok i cleaned the throttle body but now my linkage is messed up. i must have done something wrong while putting back on the throttle linkage and stuff. it seems like the throttle bidy is sticking somehow. i dont get it just cleaned it, now it idles at like 4000 when i have the spring assembly on the side of the tb on. when its off it idles great, but when its on it seems like its pulling the plate open a little bit. i dont know anymore. im just gonna give up on this car and sell it back.

 

[Jimmy Jr.]

Don't give up. Clearly you don't know exactly what you're doing but like everyone else that has learned from experience, you will too. You didn't need to disassemble the throttle body, merely wiping off the carbon buildup would have sufficed. The wastegate actuator is a simple mechanism and most likely not malfunctioning in and of itself. The long rod coming out the bottom of the wastegate actuator is fastened to the wastegate by a cotter pin. That pin can break and fall out causing the rod to separate from the wastegate. Make sure it's attached.