Resolved Boost Control Solenoid?

[ReYnd]

Going through the engine bay of my new Talon, looking for things that obviously need some attention. I have only driven it a short distance, but I noticed the turbo isn't spooling up at all. Its wheel turns and everything seems in check, minus the missing cotter pin that goes at the end of the wastegate actuator arm. Could be a huge boost leak, or a variety of other things that I will address in the coming weeks. However, I was looking at some diagrams of the vacuum lines and noticed a thing called the boost control solenoid. As what seems to have been made into an emissions delete vehicle, I figured mine was long gone, but found this thing in about the correct place (stock air can is long gone, replaced by a K&N). Problem is, it's broken.

What's the general consensus about this thing? I'd like to boost at stock pressure (at least, at first), and avoid throwing any more codes if possible. I've heard a manual boost controller makes this part unnecessary, but I'd like more input before buying one of those just to wind up right back here.

I've been lurking here for a bit, have learned quite a lot. Thanks for all the help!

 

[boostedjay32]

The bost control solenoid from what I know is what makes your boost gauge on the cluster more and tells the ecu how much boost you aare running.. I think I may have an extra one if you need it. If you want to run stock boost. I would recommend just connecting the wastegate nipple to the nipple on the turbo.. and put that cotter pin back on the wastegate arm. Let me know if u want the solenoid.



I'm sorry I forgot you are 1g.. so the solenoid won't work sorry about that.

 

[95blackGsTurbo]

There is no need for that. You are correct that an MBC replaces it. Stock boost is somewhere between 12-14psi. As well as the MBC you are going to need a boost gauge and a datalogger of some kind to monitor knock to make sure you aren't having any problems. You need to put a cotter key in the wastegate arm as well to ensure it doesn't fall off. If you want, just hook the vacuum line from the wastegate to the nipple on the outlet (j-pipe) of the turbo and it will run wastegate pressure which will give you a decent amount of boost. Probably in the 10psi range. Before you go wild make sure to check out out Tech and VFAQ section as well as reading up on the maintenance that NEEDS to be kept up on our cars.

 

[ReYnd]

I have a boost gauge ready to install, just want to get the obvious issues out of the way before I start creating my own. But I promise it won't be driven until the boost gauge is installed.

So I referenced a 1990 Laser RS Turbo and noticed its outlet pipe has a nipple, to which the BCS is attached. However, my outlet pipe has nothing of the sort. I don't know what to make of that.

Also, when I got it, a vacuum line ran from the blowoff valve to the intake manifold and T'd off to the wastegate actuator. I suspect this to be a problem as well. Because of the aforementioned difference, I didn't know how much to trust the 90's setup and will leave mine alone until proper instruction is given, as some other small things did change in those two years. But I think instead of going to the wastegate that the line should go from the BOV to the nipple on the air can.

Edit: Forget the stock setup. As soon as other more serious issues are ironed out, the air can nipple is getting capped off and the vacuum lines are getting cleaned up. I'll be adding a stock 14b outlet pipe with nipple and using it in conjunction with an NXS Motorsports manual boost controller.