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Bolt-on exhaust and check engine light?

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Follow the lines from the canister look for damaged ones if can't find any damaged lines take the solenoid off the canister and test it you need two jumper wires
Go directly to the battery if u hear click when u jump it that's good
If u have a vacum pump hook it up to one of the line connections in the solonoid and jump it again if u don't have a vacum pump u can use your mouth :) that's how I always test them.
 
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Follow the lines from the canister look for damaged ones if can't find any damaged lines take the solenoid off the canister and test it you need two jumper wires
Go directly to the battery if u hear click when u jump it that's good
If u have a vacum pump hook it up to one of the line connections in the solonoid and jump it again if u don't have a vacum pump u can use your mouth :) that's how I always test them.

problem solved due to this tip thanks man
 
You would be surprised what people do here in PA. I once witnessed a guy drive off with the gas pump still in his tank.

yea that happens alot up here in washington state...they just send you a nice 500$ bill in the mail...
 
changed out my gas cap, that fixed it first, then changed out a few hoses that had dry rot that connected to the evap canister. problem solved
 
So what ended up fixing the problem? I have been replacing parts and still have the p0455 code come on, on my '99 RS
This is a dreaded code to get. Some have actually sold their cars because they could not get rid of it :coy:.

In order to fix this, you will have to do some detective work. Smoke testing all lines (or pressure test individual lines. You shouldn't try to pressure test the system unless you have a way to regulate the pressure and a way to block off lines to components) and checking all components. You started off on the right foot by replacing the easiest (gas cap) but since that didn't do it, you need to check out the system.

It would appear that its not something blatent or obvious (because the light stays out for a little while. Therefore, its in a "later stage" check by the ECU. Like the rear O2. If the O2 is unplugged, you will get an immediate cel, but if it is just going bad, the cell will stay off for awhile because of the conditions of ECU check).

Here's a posibility of an uncommon component problem; 2GNT.com Forums - Viewing topic - EVAP System Location on 1999 GS

You can browse through this to see you're not alone (keeping in mind you are 99 so your roll over valve is not on top of the gas tank); 2GNT.com Forums - Viewing topic - Has anyone ever solved the CEL 31

If you look in your engine bay you will find a schematic of your evap system. That will also help you to follow it along.

So far I've gotten them twice and was lucky enough to fix it. Good luck to you.

MB

Oh yeah, as you probably figured out, your exhaust install has nothing to do with this problem (unless you somehow broke something doing the install ;))
 
if its an evap i was suggested to changing out the egr an map sensor as well cause throw the code simply cause its an addition to the evap system.but all the hoses through the whole evap system should be checked.
 
I know this was forever ago but I had no idea you or velocitytuner even replied. I haven't figured anything out with the p0455 code, even after replacing rusted filler neck and gas cap. I took some pictures to see if you think I found the valve and a possible break in a line. It looked to me like one line goes towards the firewall and another goes to the back of the engine and then up and into the intake manifold. I never paid attention to the tape holding the line together, but I am curious if this could cause my evap code. What do you think? Is this even the right valve?
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EDIT: The plastic tube going to the manifold does not have any leaks, the tape must have been used to hold it to something in the past.

I figured the canister is Purge solenoid because it has a green service cap. I would really appreciate any help with this.
 

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