Body Work 101.

[chriw21_2000]

Here are a few little tips on body work and installing body kits and wings. Each day I will try to post something to this thread. The series would make a great FAQ. (hint, hint)

1. Dent Removal (part 1)

If the dent is slightly bubbled in, a normal plunger or industrial suction cup can be used to remove the dent. Simply place the suction device on the area and pull it back out. Some times this will work, while other times it will not.

If the dent is deeper, and can be accessed from the backside, here is the procedure to remove the dent. First take a hammer and a dolly and work on getting the area back to its original shape. If the area is curved/flat, use the appropriate dolly to repair it. Once the area is brought back to close to its original shape, you will need to use a filler to finish the smoothing process. Remove all paint from the area in which filler will be applied. Any brand filler will adhere to bare metal better than paint. Next make sure there are not any high spots in the area. If so, work them down. An easy way to check for low spots is to spray a mist of spray paint on the area and block sand the area. Any low spots will still be misted with paint. Once the area is prepped for filler, mix the filler according to the directions on the can. Remember that the more hardener you put the quicker its going to dry. Also you put enough that it will dry. Now once the filler is mixed, time to put on the area. Spread the filler out smoothly. Remember that the rougher the filler is on the car the more sanding you will have to do. Also try to avoid getting air bubbles in the filler. Once the filler is in desired shape let it dry. If you are shaping an area back to its original shape a grater may also be used to trim excess off. Now time for sanding. To start with, never use a sandpaper rougher that 180 grit. The sand scratches created with using rough sandpaper will show back up in the paint job. Start rough and work your way to smoother paper. Just remember leave enough to sand the scratches out with. Primer will take out some but not all.

Next time, sanding techniques and primering.

 

[chriw21_2000]

Part 2

Next time, installing side skirts (OEM and aftermarket)
Primer comes in many different types. There are lacquer primers, 2k polyurethane primers, epoxy primers, and others. For most body work I recommend a 2k polyurethane primer. You mix it according to the directions on the can. Once it is mixed, set the spray pattern of your paint gun to a fan pattern. Stay roughly 8-12 inches from the car surface and spray. Avoid staying in one spot while spraying. Any slightly low areas, fine cracks or air bubbles may be filled with a 2k primer. A lacquer primer uses the evaporating of the thinner/reducer to make it dry. A 2k primer uses an activator to cause a chemical reaction causing the primer to dry. If the lacquer primer is sprayed heavily, air bubbles may appear in the primer after sanding. A 2k primer can be built up by heavily spraying a lot of it in a location. This is useful when you are trying to fill in small scratches/imperfections in the car. Once the primer is sprayed, let it dry. Then sand it with 320-600 grit paper to achieve the desired finish. If any runs are in the primer, this is perfectly fine. Simply sand them out. If you are going to run it, this was the time too. Once the primer is sprayed, if you are concerned that an area has low spots/high spots, mist a little dark colored spray paint on the area and block sand it. Block sanding is using anything behind the paper to keep it flat. This can be store bought blocks or even wooden paint paddles. Sand over the area and any low spots will stay misted with the paint. Then either apply more filler if needed, or sand the high spots down until it is flat.

Next time, installing side skirts (OEM and aftermarket)

 

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[chriw21_2000]

To install aftermarket side skirts, start by removing the existing ones if so equipped. Next the existing holes should be filled. I prefer welding them up, but just Caulking the holes up will work. Next, time for test fitting. If you aren’t going to paint the whole car you will need to tape up the area so it won’t become scratched. I suggest using 80-180 grit sand paper to sand the skirts to make them fit properly. Once you have sanded them to fit properly, then time to deside how you are going to attach them. If you want to just put them on, double sided tape or corvette panel glue works best. Simply get them painted and attach them. If you mold them in it’s a little more complicated. First after the skirt has been fitted, time to attach it. I always use a combination of the corvette panel glue and pop rivets. First glue them on and put a lot of rivets in it. I use a long grip 1/8” rivet for most of it and a few bigger 3/16” rivets on larger spots. Use a grinder to grind back just enough so the head of the rivets are not sticking out. Then put tons of them in. Make sure you put a couple in the fender well area! Go all around the skirt and inside the door jamb. Once the side is attached to the car firmly, time to put on fillers. I ground the paint off the area where it would blend. Then apply some fiberglass mat and resin to run down in the crack between the skirt and the car’s side. This will help bond the panel to the car extra. Then use fiberglass filler, use the short hair stuff not the long. Use the fiberglass filler to build it up as much as possible. Inside the door jamb, keep the filler to a minimum because the door may rub if it gets to thick. Also smooth it out in the jamb with your finger to get it half way smooth so there isn’t so much sanding. From here sand the filler until you get it flat. Then the low spots can be filled with normal body filler. Then sand that. Primer it, and drive it a little while and watch for cracks.

Laterz