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Big16g on stock motor running too lean? melt down?

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EastCoastAl

Probationary Member
2
0
Sep 15, 2012
Elyria, Ohio
Hello I'm new here and I just bought my first talon a few months ago and got her running about a week ago. Alright so after i broke the rebuilt motor in I drove it around a little while and then did a oil change and checked the spark plugs, now when i pulled the plug the combustion side of it was white as if too much oxygen was in the combustion chamber and not enough fuel. I talked to friend of mine that's had a few of these cars and he said the 16g turbo is flowing too much air. He told me that because i have the stock injectors and a bigger turbo that volume of air its flowing is leaning out the mixture, I'm just wondering if its so bad that it'll melt something down in the engine. any tips or some knowledge from someone that's been through this would be great thank you. :)

on a side note i have 550cc injectors that came with car, but the guy who rebuilt the motor said not to put them in without a afc
 
As long as you keep the boost low (~10-12psi), you will be fine. If you are worried about it, buy a wideband so you can monitor your AFRs.
 
To be on the safe side, especially after rebuilding ## motor invest in a wideband or at the very least install the set of 550 injectors. You can run them alright without any form of tuning (they will run a little richer than stock) I dont know if u have a fuel pump but at least make sure u do the rewire to the pump. An SAFC would be great if you have it in conjunction with your wideband.

You can safely run the 550 injectore with the 16g but your mechanic is right for the most part. Ideally you would want the afc with them to get it truly right. But i was running my 550s with my wideband and ported 16g just fine. It was a little rich on idle but was pretty good with power.
 
As long as the fuel system is working properly, you can safely run stock boost on any of the 16g's. In my 1g TSi, I ran an Evo 3 16g at 10psi on the stock fuel system and 450's with no issues. Any higher and fuel system couldn't keep up, but no issues at stock boost. My 2g even put up with 15psi from a small 16g on the stock fuel setup. Like other are saying, if your worried about A/F ratio then get a Wideband. For peace of mind, you could install the 550's along with a 2g MAF. This would give you a larger margin of error but wouldn't require a tuning device (although I still recommend one). Without a 2g MAF you will need a way to tune for the 550's.
 
As long as you keep the boost low (~10-12psi), you will be fine. If you are worried about it, buy a wideband so you can monitor your AFRs.

Keep boost below 15psi. Have to say with boost creep issues you need a wideband yesterday. The white on a plug can mean a few things but dont read onto it. Just get a wideband.
 
get a fpr and ull be fine with the 550s. im runnin stock injectors with my 16g and a wally 255 and it runs fine
 
It may seem like it's running fine, but you have no idea what your IDC's are or what your AFR is. I'm sure if you got a logger and wideband you'd see things weren't running well.

Exactly! I'm running the occasional 15-16 psi with an evo 16g and mostly stock fuel system, doesn't mean I should and that I'm not on borrowed time. I just throw some 110 in and cross my fingers when upping the boost some, but if/when I have a catastrophic failure, I just have a good excuse to build a nice 6 bolt that I'll care more about and not be taking chances with.

I'd keep boost around 10-12 until you can properly tune and run the bigger injectors. Also if your still running the stock bpr6es plugs, I'd swap them for bpr7es for some extra piece of mind.
 
Exactly! I'm running the occasional 15-16 psi with an evo 16g and mostly stock fuel system, doesn't mean I should and that I'm not on borrowed time. I just throw some 110 in and cross my fingers when upping the boost some, but if/when I have a catastrophic failure, I just have a good excuse to build a nice 6 bolt that I'll care more about and not be taking chances with.

I'd keep boost around 10-12 until you can properly tune and run the bigger injectors. Also if your still running the stock bpr6es plugs, I'd swap them for bpr7es for some extra piece of mind.

110 octane won't help IDC's or AFR's ;)

It actually won't be really helpful for much unless properly tuned for.


I wouldn't really suggest swapping to a colder plug if you're running 10-15 psi as it won't help. If you need to , just tighten the gap on the 6's. The 7's shouldn't really be used until you're pushing more boost.
 
I'm running the walbro 255 on a Hotwire kit the car is running at stock boost and stick injectors I jus don't want the motor to fry itself from the air flow being bigger, so what everyone seems to be saying I can throw either a wideband on it or the 550 injectors I have and the car will be fine? Like I said I'm new with dsm cars and I don't want my first project to go up in smoke
 
I has question for this too. Same situation almost. I think I have a 16g (previous owner's word that the owner before him put it in) AND I think its stock injectors and stock fuel pump. I removed the computer boost controller solenoid thing and it runs at 10-13 psi (it jumps around when the boost is up there) and I have vacuum leaks, but not sure how urgently I should fix them. I'm also going to have to drive the car for 7 hours to Ohio and 7 hours back to get plates. The exhaust gives off a smell, but I'm not sure if its burnt oil or running rich (or lean if it makes a smell). Can someone describe the differences between the three? I don't have black smoke, BUT the tailpipe is covered with black soot on the inside. The car also backfires when I'm decelerating from anywhere above 2k rpms. It also idles like crap below 2k rpms, which makes me think its rich, because there's not enough air and too much fuel, but I could be wrong.
 
110 octane won't help IDC's or AFR's ;)

It actually won't be really helpful for much unless properly tuned for.


I wouldn't really suggest swapping to a colder plug if you're running 10-15 psi as it won't help. If you need to , just tighten the gap on the 6's. The 7's shouldn't really be used until you're pushing more boost.

I'm not saying it will help much if at all, but IMO I'd rather have the extra octane when it's running lean anyway. Leaning out is causing catastrophic combustion temps where as the extra octane HAS to cool them to some extent, maybe not much but some (that's the whole point of going 110 over 92).

Same goes for colder plugs and if your getting any knock, there's no way colder plugs won't help (maybe not critical but helps). Colder plugs are going to dissipate heater better and have less of a chance of causing knock(if it's dissipating heat better, it's got less of a chance of pre-igniting the fuel/air charge)

I'd rather take a few extra safety measures and push the edge of destruction, but I don't mind breaking things either, just opens up oppurtunities to improve.
 
Hello I'm new here and I just bought my first talon a few months ago and got her running about a week ago. Alright so after i broke the rebuilt motor in I drove it around a little while and then did a oil change and checked the spark plugs, now when i pulled the plug the combustion side of it was white as if too much oxygen was in the combustion chamber and not enough fuel. I talked to friend of mine that's had a few of these cars and he said the 16g turbo is flowing too much air. He told me that because i have the stock injectors and a bigger turbo that volume of air its flowing is leaning out the mixture, I'm just wondering if its so bad that it'll melt something down in the engine. any tips or some knowledge from someone that's been through this would be great thank you. :)

on a side note i have 550cc injectors that came with car, but the guy who rebuilt the motor said not to put them in without a afc

do you have a boost controller? if not, get one, and turn it down so youll only be hitting 7-12 psi boost, this will help limit the air flow
 
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