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bet you havent seen knock like this.....

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cutty2fast

10+ Year Contributor
174
0
May 26, 2010
ocala, Florida
WTH cant figure this out check out that log im gettin knock at right before 2200 rpm every time knock sensor is new i think im just gonna unhook the thing
 

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Your dsmlink doesn't notice knock until 2200 rpms.. Its not wired in correctly or it was bad straight from the manufacturer.

If you just want to drive the car you can go to the knock tab and raise the knock rpm to like 7k so it won't make your car run funny for cruising.
 
Like I said I would not recommend this unles you need the car to drive around. If your breakin in an engine with low boost and the tune looks solid A/F wise then ya you can do it but I am not responsible for a blown head gasket or melted piston. I am just letting you know how to get around the problem you are having. Fix your knock sensors!!
 
i dont know how to fix it LOL its brand new the wiring looks solid its gotta be something in my engine bay/engine thats making a noise right at 2200 rpm
 
It can be phantom knock. What you can do is take it out and wrap in some rags and put it in a bag and drive. If you still get the knock than it is the sensor.
 
well i turned the knock off till 6k rpms and this is what i got, car pulls like a mule now and for some reason my 1st gear came back (LOL) also this morning i made a boost leak tester and found a massive boost leak at my throttle body it had metal gaskets in there???? i put the fel pro ones in that came with my head gasket kit with a super thin layer of rtv on them and now all i have is small leaks from around my ebay bov and from the biss (gonna fix those another day)

in the log its a 2nd gear pull then into 3rd (didnt take it to redline cause my tach quit working momentarily) knock should come in at 6k but doesnt till 6500?? should i adjust timing to this or not??? my estimated afr is 9.5
 

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Your knock sensor isn't working properly at 2200 RPMs, so it's not going to work at 6K either. It showed a consistent 3.2 degrees of timing retard above 2200 RPM in the first log (which is where you have it set to come on in Link), which is a sign of a bad sensor or bad connection to the ECU. If it was phantom knock, you would get random amounts of knock and the RPM range would vary somewhat. Lower the knock threshold to 0 RPM's and I bet you see 3.2* almost continuously.

You can get away without having a knock sensor if you know what you are doing and know the car, but with all these other little issues you have (1st gear, boost leaks, intermittent tach, etc), I highly recommend you fix the knock sensor before you blow the thing completely up. :)
 
yeah i hear what your saying im pretty sure its safe right now only at 15psi but i do want to go higher so im gonna have to figure it out, is there a way to test the knock sensor??? i guess its time to do some searching LOL

cant find too much good info gonna go check for a ground i guess and check continuity from the sensor to the ecu???
 
i checked the connector and it had a ground to the black wire, then i stabbed my finger with my fancy new test light........ and no gooo (that i can feel LOL) im fat and its hard to get my fat hands up in there from the engine bay, do you know off had what size wrench that thing takes to get it out???
 
no updates as of yet on the knock i put my wally 255 and fuel lab afpr since i have turned off the knock sensor till 6k when it comes back in im only gettin .4-.7 knock randomly my ebay bov is messed up i cant boost past like 15 psi the problem im having now is the idle was ok then ill go make a pull and the idle is up to like 2500 rpm
 
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