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Best road racing turbo on 2.4

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That's really weird, I get the inducer on the turbo you linked to be 82mm, but on the Garrett website and the AGP website the smallest GT40 comp wheel listed is 88mm.:hmm: It could be that Garrett once offered that wheel in a GT40 but has since stopped, but I don't know.
 
BoostFrenzy is correct I run a 3052. I am currently in the finishing stages of my 2.4 build I'll post my findings of that setup with the 3052 when I finish it. Don't hold your breath that's going to take some time.

What I can comment on is the 3052 on my stock 7 bolt bottom end with built head (see my profile). Via DSMLink I was getting 20 psi at 3600 rpm and 24 psi at 3800 rpm. It's all in how you tune it. I wasn't able to run more than 24 psi as I am still running an old Profec B and that is it's limit. With the new build that will change. But that's for another thread... So I wouldn't say that the turbo is laggy at all.

Now with the new engines bump in displacement and bump in compression I expect it will hit even sooner:rocks: I am currently wondering myself about the DSM 76. If it really has that flow increase potential with no loss in spool that could be very interesting. I'm going to use my 3052 for now but it's nice to know there is more available if i want it. If I was buying right now I would probably go for the DSM 76 on a 2.4.

I've run Buttonwillow, Laguna Seca, Thunderhill and Reno-Fernley. I can't say that I wished I had more turbo. I was pretty happy with my setup on all these tracks. I would change my driving style to suit the track as needed. Any of the turbos your considering will work on our local tracks.
 
I think I may have figured out the 3082/3040 confusion. HKS calls this turbo the GT3040, but they have their own naming system. For example, their version of the GT3076R is called the GT3037. So, in Garrett terms this is a GT3082R and in HKS terms it is a GT3040, yet it has nothing in common with the Garrett GT40(maybe), or I could be totally wrong on this.

HKS USA GT Ball-Bearing Turbochargers (more)

Bottom of the page.
 
IMO, my last turbo (FP Green) on my 4g64 was too restrictive... Specifically, the ported Mitsu 7cm style turbine housing was the cause of a lot of restriction.

Having recently fired up the new setup: same 2.4L 4g64 with a PTE 6235R, I notice a huge improvement, even at only 15psi on a currently un-tuned setup... it spools as fast of the FP Green did and pulls WAAAAY harder.

Being from CA myself, I did not have a lot of choices as far as bolt-on, internally gated turbine housings... Thus my interest in the PTE 6235R: It's .63 A/R turbine housing should be quite an improvement over the FP Green’s Mitsu housing.

So far, it's the best turbo compared to other 2 "50-trim" variants I've owned:
PTE 50 Trim (journal bearing) on my old 2.3L stroker setup
FP Green on my current 4g64
 
Just curious to see if you have thought about approaching this from the other side. How much tire are you going to run and how much braking can your setup handle? I know this may seem like an odd approach, but tracking is more than sheer power and straight line speed. On a track like TWS which is primarily a high speed circuit, my EvoIII 16g at 16-18 psi can be a handful even with the Koni Hoosiers on. Compound that with a full weight 2G, even the Evo Brembos and Carbotech XP-12s are felling the stress. I do feel the lack luster of the front and back straights, but it's just an opportunity for me to make sure I hit my exits right and for those 911s to feel a little better about themselves.

With that all being said I'm about to crank up my 2.3L any day now and shooting for a one of FP's 20Gs in the near future. Power = heat as Luda mentioned above so lower boost and reliability are key points to successful events. Just my $0.02
 
Hey Evan.

The info I am looking for in particular is what turbo you run, how is the lag, what psi are you running, and in California in particular, what tracks do you run on and if you could go back and redo your setup, what turbo would you pick.

Ludachris said in particular he had only one track with a 3/4 mile straight away he wish he had a bigger turbo for, but otherwise was happy with his FP3150.

Are there tracks around here you would recommend a certain turbo? Are there more turns where a FP3150 spool would be handy, or are there more straightaways where a DSM76 would be better.

or what is your preferrence, as I initially stated.

Thanks for the input :thumb:
Let me be clear - on that 3/4 mile straight, I would have liked more power, not a bigger turbo. Remember, I was only running 20 lbs of boost. I could have just turned up the boost with higher octane fuel, but what I think would have helped more was aero (and more confidence in hitting the brakes at 150+ mph going into turn 1).

I seriously doubt you'll need anything bigger than the FP3150. I've driven the CA tracks (on a Big 16g) and even the Laguna straights aren't long enough to warrant anything bigger than a 50-trim really, especially if you're able to run race fuel or E85 with a little more boost. Maybe the DSM76 might work well, but I think you'd want to stay in the lower boost range to help keep temps down and have the best possible spool you can. The FP3150 is perfect for that and is probably slightly more efficient in the lower boost range. In Cali, uou won't be running on anything like a Road America or Sebring with multiple long straights where you might have to shift into 5th gear. (And one day I'll be back out there with you guys running on those tracks again)

Top end in road racing is only good for the straights, and we all know that's not where the most time can be saved on the track. Typically, the more you focus on top end power, the more you sacrifice speed in the corners (and exits). I was set on a 3052 and am now glad Robert talked me into a 3150.
 
Just curious to see if you have thought about approaching this from the other side. How much tire are you going to run and how much braking can your setup handle? I know this may seem like an odd approach, but tracking is more than sheer power and straight line speed. On a track like TWS which is primarily a high speed circuit, my EvoIII 16g at 16-18 psi can be a handful even with the Koni Hoosiers on. Compound that with a full weight 2G, even the Evo Brembos and Carbotech XP-12s are felling the stress. I do feel the lack luster of the front and back straights, but it's just an opportunity for me to make sure I hit my exits right and for those 911s to feel a little better about themselves.

With that all being said I'm about to crank up my 2.3L any day now and shooting for a one of FP's 20Gs in the near future. Power = heat as Luda mentioned above so lower boost and reliability are key points to successful events. Just my $0.02
Great points - the more power you opt for, the more braking and tires you'll need. Stock calipers will not be a great choice when running a 3150 or 3052 at the track regularly. You'll be forcing yourself into a big brake kit real quick... which is a whole 'nother discussion.
 
IMO, my last turbo (FP Green) on my 4g64 was too restrictive... Specifically, the ported Mitsu 7cm style turbine housing was the cause of a lot of restriction.

Having recently fired up the new setup: same 2.4L 4g64 with a PTE 6235R, I notice a huge improvement, even at only 15psi on a currently un-tuned setup... it spools as fast of the FP Green did and pulls WAAAAY harder.

Being from CA myself, I did not have a lot of choices as far as bolt-on, internally gated turbine housings... Thus my interest in the PTE 6235R: It's .63 A/R turbine housing should be quite an improvement over the FP Green’s Mitsu housing.

So far, it's the best turbo compared to other 2 "50-trim" variants I've owned:
PTE 50 Trim (journal bearing) on my old 2.3L stroker setup
FP Green on my current 4g64
Which track were you running on to make your comparisons? What was spool like in the turns?

Remember guys, this discussion is specifically geared towards road racing. Not street use or drag racing. The focus is mainly on the earliest possible spool, midrange power, and getting the most power at the lowest boost setting to keep underhood temps down and reliability up. High end power isn't as important. And I would think that we're only discussing dual ball bearing turbos here, as there isn't much point in buying a standard journal bearing turbo for road racing.
 
I did recently complete my evo brembo brake swap, so I would think I am ok in the brake department for a good while. I am on stock evo rotors and pads though, new, but will need to be changed in the near future as I find what combo works best. The brake swap was all around, each corner. That project went pretty smooth for me, never touched suspension.. yet I get to look foward to that now as I been following the road racer threads more closely and seeing it is very important.

I am also on evo 8 enkies, with a 235/45/17 tire

----------------

The main reason I am still considering the DSM76 was because it is the same housing, but I believe it and the 3052 are hitting full boost 400-500 rpms after the 3150. If that is the case, I think my descion is set. Another concern luda is have you tried seraching for the fp3150? it doesn't have much of a following.. if you will. I could only find a handful of threads where anyone even made mention of it. The 3052 had a much stronger folowing and people saying they would get the DSM76 because it has no difference in lag for them. I think Chris has been the biggest advertiser for this turbo, as your name came up the most in all the threads heh.

But again, I don't think it is going to be possible to find someone who has run both, so comparing them is all speculation. I started my build thread on my 2.4 project,

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/hangout/332712-2-4-liter-g4cs-build-thread.html

so as I learn how to build an engine, I hopefully will hit all the points I need to get it low end/torque oriented, and I can get to the track this next season. I still am undecided on blowing my current 2.0 to get some track time in this year if they have any open sessions.
 
I did recently complete my evo brembo brake swap, so I would think I am ok in the brake department for a good while. I am on stock evo rotors and pads though, new, but will need to be changed in the near future as I find what combo works best. The brake swap was all around, each corner. That project went pretty smooth for me, never touched suspension.. yet I get to look foward to that now as I been following the road racer threads more closely and seeing it is very important.

I am also on evo 8 enkies, with a 235/45/17 tire

----------------

The main reason I am still considering the DSM76 was because it is the same housing, but I believe it and the 3052 are hitting full boost 400-500 rpms after the 3150. If that is the case, I think my descion is set. Another concern luda is have you tried seraching for the fp3150? it doesn't have much of a following.. if you will. I could only find a handful of threads where anyone even made mention of it. The 3052 had a much stronger folowing and people saying they would get the DSM76 because it has no difference in lag for them. I think Chris has been the biggest advertiser for this turbo, as your name came up the most in all the threads heh.

But again, I don't think it is going to be possible to find someone who has run both, so comparing them is all speculation. I started my build thread on my 2.4 project,

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/hangout/332712-2-4-liter-g4cs-build-thread.html

so as I learn how to build an engine, I hopefully will hit all the points I need to get it low end/torque oriented, and I can get to the track this next season. I still am undecided on blowing my current 2.0 to get some track time in this year if they have any open sessions.
I was the first person to get the FP3150. Robert made it available because a lot of people asked for it, but the overall demand for the turbo gets drowned out mainly because DSMers are enamored with top end power, even road racers like me. I was set on a 3052 even knowing that it might spool 400-500k slower than a 3150. Why? Because I had the typical DSMer mentality of wanting bigger numbers. There's no way I'd want to sacrifice that much spool now. The only reason I'd even consider a 3052 is because I saw Greg Collier tune his 2.4L to put down 400whp at 16-18psi with one, but of course, he was using AEM and had it tuned by one of the best. I still question whether he could have had more usable power with a 3150 though.

FP doesn't promote the FP3150 much because the majority of the DSM world wants bigger turbos. The 50-trim is usually bought by those who can't afford a bigger option - and that means they don't want to pay the 3052 price for a 50-trim. It's never going to be a big seller. Not when the usual recommendation in the DSM world has always been to get the bigger turbo so you don't end up wanting to upgrade later. That's why it's difficult for a DSMer to get into road racing and have a competitive car - they're usually using a drag race setup and mentality.

In the end, I honestly think you'll be happy with either one. I don't care as much about big dyno numbers or timeslips as I used to. That's why I'm able to be happy with a 50-trim. Some still want a car that is decent at multiple types of racing though. My car is single purpose now.
 
Which track were you running on to make your comparisons? What was spool like in the turns?

Remember guys, this discussion is specifically geared towards road racing. Not street use or drag racing. The focus is mainly on the earliest possible spool, midrange power, and getting the most power at the lowest boost setting to keep underhood temps down and reliability up. High end power isn't as important. And I would think that we're only discussing dual ball bearing turbos here, as there isn't much point in buying a standard journal bearing turbo for road racing.

Quite frankly, I don't know yet... I've only fired this thing up for the first time 2 days ago... So far, only street driving for the comparisons, until I finish tuning it (I thought I mentioned that before).

As far as the underhood temps go, there are two wonderful things that can help with that:
1) ceramic coating: Exhaust manifold, turbine & O2 housings
2) header wrap: downpipe
 

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i wouldn't go with a fp3052 its too small for laguna seca
personally with a 2.4 i would go with a garrett 3582 (since u have a 2.4)
ams runs a 35r with a 2.3 and they do great in road racing events!
but at the same time they also use that turbo to reach the 600's
and i dnt know if u want that much power?
if u got the money go with a garrett based hks 3037s :thumb:
and dont be scared of a little lag, u got something to look forward to.
u want something that will keep going with you rpms.
 
The focus is mainly on the earliest possible spool, midrange power, and getting the most power at the lowest boost setting to keep underhood temps down and reliability up. High end power isn't as important.
mitsu-luver, read the above quote. A GT35R for most setups is far more turbo than is required. Look at what the OP was asking, he wants to run 20-22 psi with the fastest possible spool. At those boost levels the GT3582's compressor wheel hasn't even started to flow well, and at the same time you're paying for the extra size of the turbine and compressor wheels (which you aren't even using) with more lag. For him, he should be worried about a little lag, especially since he isn't worried about max power. A GT3076R will make more than he would probably need given his goals, so a GT35R is too big. Hell, from what Luda said before, it sounds like a 3076R might be a little on the big side. Finally, AFAIK, the AMS Evo that you're referring to is a time attack car, meaning it is going for one fast lap, so I would assume that the extra heat that a larger turbo and more power puts out is much less important.


PS-"u" isn't "you"
 
i wouldn't go with a fp3052 its too small for laguna seca
personally with a 2.4 i would go with a garrett 3582 (since u have a 2.4)
ams runs a 35r with a 2.3 and they do great in road racing events!
but at the same time they also use that turbo to reach the 600's
and i dnt know if u want that much power?
if u got the money go with a garrett based hks 3037s :thumb:
and dont be scared of a little lag, u got something to look forward to.
u want something that will keep going with you rpms.
The Evo isn't a DSM. And even if it's a very similar motor, the AMS Evo is still a purpose-built race car. To suggest that DSMers who want to road race should go out and get a 35R because the AMS race car uses one for Time Attack events is a little naive. Only 1 out of maybe 1000 DSMers who are asking for road racing turbo advice will end up building a car anywhere close to the AMS Evo that would be able to take advantage of the 35R. I haven't seen any yet.

For 99% of all road racing on any track that isn't Road America or Sebring here in the US, a 50-trim is the ideal turbo for a DSM road racer for many reasons. For those who absolutely have to have bigger numbers for bragging rights, a 3052 would be as big as you'd want to go. If you can make a 35R work on the car, you probably have a very expensive race car and don't need our advice.

A 50-trim on Laguna Seca will be more than enough, trust me. That's one track where you can get in trouble real quick (turn 3 and the corkscrew particularly). It's not a big horsepower track.
 
Quite frankly, I don't know yet... I've only fired this thing up for the first time 2 days ago... So far, only street driving for the comparisons, until I finish tuning it (I thought I mentioned that before).

As far as the underhood temps go, there are two wonderful things that can help with that:
1) ceramic coating: Exhaust manifold, turbine & O2 housings
2) header wrap: downpipe
Funny you should say that - my ceramic coated FP manifold was the culprit for my Tial 44mm damage. I melted the plunger inside and turned a black anodized cover to a golden brown. The guy at Tial was pretty impressed. :) You'll need a little more than just coatings and downpipe wrap if you're going to be doing road racing. I'll be using some gold reflective tape this season to see if that helps on the wastegate, power steering pump, and water pipe, as well as more hood venting.

Turbo cars generate a ton more heat under the hood than N/A cars. The more power you're running, the more it becomes an issue.
 
I've been thinking about your turbo sizing question for the last day or so. The bigger turbos we've been discussing get their higher flow rates at higher boost pressures. If you're only going to run 22 psi you are giving up the advantage a larger turbo will have over a smaller one. At 20 psi they all flow about 40 lbs/min. Given the way you say you want to run your car just get the 50 trim.
 
I've been thinking about your turbo sizing question for the last day or so. The bigger turbos we've been discussing get their higher flow rates at higher boost pressures. If you're only going to run 22 psi you are giving up the advantage a larger turbo will have over a smaller one. At 20 psi they all flow about 40 lbs/min. Given the way you say you want to run your car just get the 50 trim.
Exactly. Unless you're going to run higher boost, the bigger turbo won't do much for you except for give you more lag.

Generally, you don't want to run very high boost at road racing events due to heat and reliability issues. If you're only going to be running a few laps each session for Time Trials, then it will be less of an issue. But most of us want to run our full 20-30 minute sessions, which means higher boost will create more heat and cause reliability issues over time.
 
Funny you should say that - my ceramic coated FP manifold was the culprit for my Tial 44mm damage. I melted the plunger inside and turned a black anodized cover to a golden brown. The guy at Tial was pretty impressed. :) You'll need a little more than just coatings and downpipe wrap if you're going to be doing road racing. I'll be using some gold reflective tape this season to see if that helps on the wastegate, power steering pump, and water pipe, as well as more hood venting.

Turbo cars generate a ton more heat under the hood than N/A cars. The more power you're running, the more it becomes an issue.


Hmm... That's odd. I got my FP Race manifold coated directly from FP. -But it was coated silver, not black in color like the one in your profile pics. Are you sure yours got coated? I thought they only did the coating in silver :hmm:

In addition to coating everything else , I also run heatshields: A JMF for the FP Race manifold and a modified OEM lower heatshield (although IMO, the mounting solution for the JMF heatshield leaves something to be desired).

The 2000* ThermoTec wrap stuff works great BTW, no need to go robbing the Lunar Lander of it's BLING.

-I think Ludachris is just worried that the Zip Ties holding his coil pack in place will melt :tease: :D

Seriously though, I am also looking into the hood venting thing (I just hate the idea of putting a hole in the hood).
 

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The original FP manifolds were coated black. And then once cycled, become more of a gray in color.

And the reason for the gold is because it's heat disipitation properties. That's why the Mclaren F1 has it all over the engine bay. I'd do it, but don't really care for the look. I would rather get everything coated with as high a temp rating as possible.
 
mitsu-luver, read the above quote. A GT35R for most setups is far more turbo than is required. Look at what the OP was asking, he wants to run 20-22 psi with the fastest possible spool. At those boost levels the GT3582's compressor wheel hasn't even started to flow well, and at the same time you're paying for the extra size of the turbine and compressor wheels (which you aren't even using) with more lag. For him, he should be worried about a little lag, especially since he isn't worried about max power. A GT3076R will make more than he would probably need given his goals, so a GT35R is too big. Hell, from what Luda said before, it sounds like a 3076R might be a little on the big side. Finally, AFAIK, the AMS Evo that you're referring to is a time attack car, meaning it is going for one fast lap, so I would assume that the extra heat that a larger turbo and more power puts out is much less important.


PS-"u" isn't "you"

wow?......
oh and a 3582 and a 3076 cost the same ;) :tease:
oh and also with a bigger turbo u can make the same power at a lower boost setting therefore less heat :tease:
oh and he has a 2.4 :tease:
plenty of people us bigger turbos for less power
beacause with a gt30 it MAXES at 500hp
stop worring about lag so much!
 
wow?......
oh and a 3582 and a 3076 cost the same ;) :tease:
oh and also with a bigger turbo u can make the same power at a lower boost setting therefore less heat :tease:
oh and he has a 2.4 :tease:
plenty of people us bigger turbos for less power
beacause with a gt30 it MAXES at 500hp
stop worring about lag so much!

Even with 2.4L motor, if he runs GT35R, it will most likely see full boost in low to mid 4K- ish RPM's. That is late for what he asks for.
 
Hmm... That's odd. I got my FP Race manifold coated directly from FP. -But it was coated silver, not black in color like the one in your profile pics. Are you sure yours got coated? I thought they only did the coating in silver :hmm:

In addition to coating everything else , I also run heatshields: A JMF for the FP Race manifold and a modified OEM lower heatshield (although IMO, the mounting solution for the JMF heatshield leaves something to be desired).

The 2000* ThermoTec wrap stuff works great BTW, no need to go robbing the Lunar Lander of it's BLING.

-I think Ludachris is just worried that the Zip Ties holding his coil pack in place will melt :tease: :D

Seriously though, I am also looking into the hood venting thing (I just hate the idea of putting a hole in the hood).
Yes, my manifold was coated by FP. It's not that I'm worried about the zip ties melting due to heat, I'm giving my actual experience with tracking my car for the past 4 years, the last 2 with a FP3150. I'm hoping to get a JM coilpack mount this year to get rid of those zip ties though :coy:

I get the feeling you haven't been doing many 20 minute sessions with your car yet - if that's a bad assumption, my apologies. The reason I made that assumption is that you haven't yet put a hood vent on - which I've found to be critical for any DSMer who has spent any time on a road course. Once you get out there and spend a full season (5-10 weekends) doing 4 or 5 twenty minute sessions each day, you'll find that coatings and heat wrap alone aren't enough. At the end of the year or the second year, have your wastegate checked (for those running a 44mm off a FP turbine housing). My Tial needed $100 worth of repairs, even with my coated header and large hood vent. If you're not running an FP turbine housing, maybe the heat shield might be all you need. But the OP is talking about FP turbos, so this is why I'm bringing this up.

Ask anyone around here how much work I've put into keeping things cooler under the hood. The Tial just sits very close to the manifold. A coated manifold alone won't protect it. You'll have to protect it, along with other systems like the power steering pump and even the oil filter with custom heat shields or the gold reflective tape - that's all I'm saying. Trust me, I've found out the hard way. Things just get too hot with a bigger turbo. That's why I've always pushed everyone I talk to not to go with a turbo that's too big - it just creates more problems with the extra heat. Ask Greg Collier how much more fun he had running a small turbo when he raced his DSM. ;)
 
wow?......
oh and a 3582 and a 3076 cost the same ;) :tease:
oh and also with a bigger turbo u can make the same power at a lower boost setting therefore less heat :tease:
oh and he has a 2.4 :tease:
plenty of people us bigger turbos for less power
beacause with a gt30 it MAXES at 500hp
stop worring about lag so much!
Do you track your car? How many seasons have you put on a larger turbo at the track (road courses)? How many of those people you're referring to that use larger turbos road race?

I'm a little concerned that some of the suggestions being posted are coming from people who have no experience or passion for tracking their car regularly. You cannot give an accurate turbo recommendation for road racing or open track events unless you've been around a DSM that has spent a good amount of time at the track. You can't just give generic examples - give specific examples of road racing DSMs. This is the Road Racing forum.

And to suggest you shouldn't worry about lag - that says a lot about your road racing background. Lag is much more important than top end horsepower in track events. Just because the GT30 (and 3052) maxes out at 500hp doesn't mean it's not enough for a road racer. I don't know any DSMers who have maxed out a 50-trim, let alone a GT30 turbo on a road racing DSM. This is the mentality that I'm talking about. So many DSMers are stuck on the overall power potential of a turbo and give very little importance to spool and mid range power. Those people obviously don't care about building a car that will be good at road racing. Beware of those suggestions.

If the turbo doesn't hit full spool by around 3500rpm, you're simply not setting your car up well for road racing. If you're not concerned about hitting full spool at that point or sooner, you're obviously more of a drag racer and probably shouldn't be giving advice in this forum. I'm not trying to insult anyone, but the policies of this site include giving help from experience and not just assumptions. Listen to the goals the OP is looking for. Give advice on those goals, not the goals of a drag racer.
 
wow?......
oh and a 3582 and a 3076 cost the same ;) :tease:
oh and also with a bigger turbo u can make the same power at a lower boost setting therefore less heat :tease:
oh and he has a 2.4 :tease:
plenty of people us bigger turbos for less power
beacause with a gt30 it MAXES at 500hp
stop worring about lag so much!

If you reread my post, I was saying you're paying for the larger wheel sizes WITH lag, not paying more monetarily. Also, looking at the compressor maps from Welcome to TurboByGarrett.com, it looks like the GT3076R actually might flow a bit more than the GT3582R at 22psi, which is what the OP is looking to run. Either way, it is a negligible difference in flow. All of your other points have already been addressed in earlier posts.

EDIT: I was reading the compressor maps wrong, my mistake, there is a larger difference in flow between the two at that boost level.
 
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