Best Mods Prior To Turbo

[djXternal]

Hey guys, well pretty soon I'll be able to finally really starting adding alot to my car... I am going to go to a big turbo in a year or so, but because my income is limited I need to upgrade in stages, money really isnt a big issue for me just because I want to make this as nice as possible (Of Course saving money is always good, but not at the expense of performance)... Right now all I really have is a High-Flow cat, and greddy evo2 cat-back, plus a short-ram that is rather crappy, planning to make a CAI in school next year...

What I really want to know is what are the best mod to do to my car before I install a turbo, one of the first things I was planning was rebuilding the engine, but would a swap be better? and Is it ok to upgrade the fuel system before turboing? Just anything I can do before I install turbo, thanks

 

[VelocitàPaola]

What I really want to know is what are the best mod to do to my car before I install a turbo, one of the first things I was planning was rebuilding the engine, but would a swap be better? and Is it ok to upgrade the fuel system before turboing? Just anything I can do before I install turbo, thanks

Rebuilding the engine is a good idea if you want high boost from the start. If you did a swap, I'm not sure what you'd swap with. All 420As have the same internal weaknesses: their pistons are prone to damage and the rods could be stronger. Also, I wouldn't really call rebuilding the engine a "first mod." It's pretty complicated and expensive. It's really something that is only necessary if you've experienced boost, or destroyed your old engine.

I would recommend doing all of the supporting mods for the turbo first. They don't seem very complicated in theory, and they're not, but when you get all of your turbo stuff together, you'll surprised at how all of the little things eat away at your time. I ran a Walbro 255 with a 12:1 FMU for months before I went turbo - no harm there.

You could also install oil lines. Weld or otherwise install a 10-AN line into to the oil pan, and tee a 4-AN line off of the oil sending unit. Zip tie them out of the way, and obviously, use threaded plugs so you won't lose oil.

Also do anything that your car requires maintenance wise. Buy new spark plugs, new belts, and make sure all systems are operating as normal. You don't have to change the coolant since you'll probably be doing that when you put the turbo on.

At this point, there isn't much you can do with regards to the engine, until you get the turbo. You may start looking at other parts of the car though. Being able to stop is a great thing; what about aftermarket rotors and pads? How's your shifting? A Symborski shift kit and underhood kit might be something to look in to.

That's pretty much how I did things. I looked for smaller, cheaper things to do until it was time for the turbo.

PS, Where's Wesley Chapel? I'm in Plantation/Ft. Lauderdale; I wouldn't mind helping out if you ever needed someone.

 

[djXternal]

Wesley Chapel is in the New Tampa/Zephyrhills area... and The main reason i was going to rebuild the engine first is because I should have access to everything I'll need next year at WyoTech...

Thanks

 

[VelocitàPaola]

What is your primary goal? Do you want to boost or do you want a new engine? They're about equivalent in money and time needed. Although you'll probably eventually want both equally, I suggest you put all of your resources towards whichever you want more right now.

 

[DSMcrazy3]

If you can rebuild the engine, do it. Don't buy a CAI if you're going to turbo, it's just wasting money because you won't have any use for it once you get the turbo. Some good mods to invest in would be a UDP or a bigger throttle body. Other things you could buy since money isn't an issue would be your necessary gauges, or as stated above, oil lines..You can go ahead and get a fitting braized into your oil pan. Heck you can go ahead and buy all the turbo parts and just have them for when you're ready. Many possibilities..

VelocitàPaola what is your name? I'm tired of having to copy paste your username LoL

 

[VelocitàPaola]

money really isnt a big issue for me just because I want to make this as nice as possible

I missed this at first. If you have the money and time, then go ahead and rebuild the engine. Go all out; do everything you can afford to. Having a freshly rebuilt engine will be nice once you start boosting. Try to synchronize the two events though, driving around N/A with 8:1 compression ratio isn't very fun.

Josh, look here vvv

 

[djXternal]

the most short term goal is boost, My main goal is to trun this into a car that I can take to shows and can act as adevertising for the shop I'm planning to open in a few years...

Next real big changes is going to be wheels, tires, suspensions, and new brake system

I was also planning on a b&m short shifter, what does the Symborski shift kit and underhood kit do?

I've been concentrating so much on appereance and sound system for so long I've never really taken the time to learn every thing I can about the engine and other systems, but I'm on here almost 24/7 anymore learning everything I can

 

[VelocitàPaola]

what does the Symborski shift kit and underhood kit do?

They make shifting tighter and cleaner.

but I'm on here almost 24/7 anymore learning everything I can

That's the way to do things.

 

[djXternal]

This is the symborski kit correct? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DSM-...33736QQitemZ7987922527QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

And this the underhood kit? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1G-2...ryZ33736QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

If these are right, then they are cheap enough that I could go ahead and get those now

 

[VelocitàPaola]

Get the Symborksi from MachV
http://www.machv.com/symshifkit1.html

I know, they're more expensive, but it comes with a metal shift sleeve, one of the places I found I have the most play.

 

[djXternal]

alright might have to get those things with the next couple paychecks

 

[DSMcrazy3]

Josh, look here vvv

Huh... EDIT: nevermind I saw that you put the sig. haha thanks PAUL

about 6 months before I started my turbo process..I knew hardly anything about turbo's and turboing my car. I learned through this site and I know with it, you will be just fine, as long as you do read all you can

 

[djXternal]

I will deff keep reading everything I can here

 

[Blitzeclips]

Get headwork done too. While youre at it, port the intake MF also. Oversized valves, long rod motor (creates more torque) fo the extra distance in the long run. Shoot for drivetrain next. Clutch, flywheel, etc. I have been thru the same exact process as you. Make sure you know which parts do what, and DONT FORGET the little things along with it (gaskets, extra bolts {they WILL strip], new plugs, wires, etc)... BTW driving around w/ 8:6:1 compression isn't very fun...

 

[ninjai_ruken]

Wesley Chapel is in the New Tampa/Zephyrhills area... and The main reason i was going to rebuild the engine first is because I should have access to everything I'll need next year at WyoTech...

Thanks

Hey we should hang out when your up at wyotech..Im only like 8 hours away. I bought all my stuff at once I.E. Pistons/Rods all the little odds and ends...Custom Turbo kit..,and started stripping my motor down..once all the parts were there I built it back up. Easier for me that way.

 

[baxsom]

no one mentioned vacuum lines

once you are boosting vacuum leaks destroys boost

its a good idea to just buy about 30' of vacuum hose and replace evey single vacuum line you have to include the ones to the evap canister, cruse control etc

also the hard plastic lines get very brittle over time so it might be a good idea to drop those all together and just use rubber

if you plan on taking your intake manifold off for whatever reason it also might be a good idea to drill and tap some more vacuum nipples into the manifold.

there is only one tree on the back of our intakes and they are all occupied. with the addition of boost you also need a vacuum source for your BOV, boost gauge, FPR, boost controller if you use one, and any other items you may decide to install.

for example,

between the normal things like i mentioned above plus the water injector, datalogger, portfueler etc i have 10 extra vacuum nipples tapped into my intake.

 

[BigRand]

I"m a big fan of igntion, so I say, an upgraded coil pack...msd or screaming demon from howell, plug wires to go with it, you'll actually feel a differnce while your waitng to go turbo. But like you said if money isn't a problem, measure about 5billion times, and only cut once.

 

[Blitzeclips]

no one mentioned vacuum lines

once you are boosting vacuum leaks destroys boost

its a good idea to just buy about 30' of vacuum hose and replace evey single vacuum line you have to include the ones to the evap canister, cruse control etc

also the hard plastic lines get very brittle over time so it might be a good idea to drop those all together and just use rubber

if you plan on taking your intake manifold off for whatever reason it also might be a good idea to drill and tap some more vacuum nipples into the manifold.

there is only one tree on the back of our intakes and they are all occupied. with the addition of boost you also need a vacuum source for your BOV, boost gauge, FPR, boost controller if you use one, and any other items you may decide to install.

for example,

between the normal things like i mentioned above plus the water injector, datalogger, portfueler etc i have 10 extra vacuum nipples tapped into my intake.

WHA????? Youre saying we need to tap into the intake MF multiple times to create a source for vaccuum lines?? That doesnt seem to be a normal step in the turbo install. Can you please elaborate that statement? Im getting ready to boost, and doing all that def. wasnt on my list of the install process...

 

[VelocitàPaola]

It isn't necessary. Baxsom is running quite a few systems that require accurate boost sources, so he needed to make more ports on the intake manifold. This is a better method of referencing boost if you have more boost-sensitive systems (i.e. Portfueler, MS, water injection, etc.).

For your application though, you'll only be running maybe four or so new components that require a boost source (FMU, wastegate, BOV, and boost gauge); all of which aren't terribly boost-sensitive. For that, you'll be fine just teeing one of the existing lines (or, as baxsom suggested, replacing all of the lines, then teeing one of those). The PCV hose (before the valve) and the brake booster line are popular choices for boost sources.

 

[BigRand]

I have a similar type of system to baxoms. I use an seprate box, that sources from 1 or 2 intake mani vac sources, and contains accurate vac levels to run multiple psi sensitive devices. I'll take pics sooner or later.

 

[XMasta19]

...a vacuum manifold

 

[BigRand]

Actually essentialy thats exactly what it is I guess. I vac manifold. TEEing off to many sources and you don't get accurate levels for everything you need. So if your running a lot of things that need to sourced out, this isn't impertitive, but it helps a little.

 

[XMasta19]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GOLD...ryZ36474QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem