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Bearing Woes

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1gcrazy

15+ Year Contributor
1,552
9
Apr 6, 2005
Fountain, Colorado
Ok guys so I bought a 93 TSI AWD and after about 3000 miles I started hearing a slight ticking. It eventually blossomed into to some really radical rod knock.
The original 200k 7 bolt had enough. I drove it until it died one evening.

I had a fresh 6 bolt almost finished.
After the disaster I brought the car home and started on the 6 bolt.
BSEK
Polished crank(mic'd by the machine shop and still was considered within spec after the polish)
New rings
New Sealed Power Rod/Crank bearings which from what I read are stock mitsu bearings relabeled.
Rods, pistons, block were all washed thoroughly.
Used lots of assembly lube
Torque everything down according to the service manual.

Instead of the 38lbs. on the rod bolts I did the 14 ft. lbs. and a quarter turn more (which is the torque spec of the 7 bolt motor) on accident.
Now I did NOT prime the 3g lifters in oil before installing into the head. But I figured they would prime by themselves when I primed the oil pump before installing the timing belt.

It was perfect. I took my time, I primed the oil pump while on the stand, Then I installed the engine into the car and THEN I added the oil cooler. I left the MPI out to allow the oil cooler to fill while cranking the car.

Once I got it started, It sounded like immediate rod knock. I was horrified.



Here's my questions:
What are the chances my wrong torque on the rods is the problem?
If I install new bearings and torque appropriately, what are the chances I can get away with this.
 
that's why we use plastigage, to check bearing clearance . it sounds like you have one or more egg shaped connecting rods . they likely will need to be resized by a machine shop . that is if they are in good enough shape.
 
that's why we use plastigage, to check bearing clearance . it sounds like you have one or more egg shaped connecting rods . they likely will need to be resized by a machine shop . that is if they are in good enough shape.

Yes Plastigage is the way to go. My old motor had a host of problems on it also thats why i bought a JDM one to start from sctratch. As i started the re-assembly i plastigage the main bearings and the connecting rod bearings to make sure its all within spec. Without that u are left to "eye balling it" and assuming that it is all right. It can become tedious thats for sure but in the end you KNOW that it is ALL right :hellyeah:
 
did YOU clean the crank when you got it back from the machine shop? if not then there is a good chance that the polishing belt abrasive was in the oil galley holes and when you primed the oil system you flused the abrasive right into the bearings.

also you may have over streched the rod bolts by using the improper torque method.. I would change the rod bolts...
 
Well the Con rods all came out of running motors. So I figured as long as they were running before, everything was good.
I didn't use plastiguage because I had the crank checked and everything was in spec. I also received the crank in excellent condition. It was warm from being in the parts washer when I picked it up. It was also coated in a nice light oil.

Not sure about the stretched rod bolts.
 
Well the Con rods all came out of running motors. So I figured as long as they were running before, everything was good.
I didn't use plastiguage because I had the crank checked and everything was in spec. I also received the crank in excellent condition. It was warm from being in the parts washer when I picked it up. It was also coated in a nice light oil.

Not sure about the stretched rod bolts.

Only problem is that those rods may have been worn differently not giving the correct clearences. Therefore one clearence may have been TOO small or TOO big but switching up the of the bearings would have compensated to a point the amount of clearences that were there..
 
Only problem is that those rods may have been worn differently not giving the correct clearences. Therefore one clearence may have been TOO small or TOO big but switching up the of the bearings would have compensated to a point the amount of clearences that were there..

I don't follow what you mean? I have new bearings and I'll be installing them tomorrow hopefully.
Should I just count on building a new motor or should I plastigauge them this time???
:confused:
 
Definitely plastigage them. If the clearances are way out of wack you just saved yourself a ton of time and money. If the clearances are within spec then you should have the peace of mind that you have an engine that should last. Did any of the rod nuts back out?
 
I can't imagine any nuts backed out in just 5 seconds of running. It knocked from the first start. I'll keep yall updated on the new bearing situation. I'm gonna put them in tomorrow hopefully.
 
.......Are you absolutely sure it wasn't horrible lifter tick since you didn't prime them correctly? Lifters, when first installed, will clack like hell for the first few minutes.

However.. you need to go ahead and do the above stated anyhow because you torqued the con-rod ends incorrectly.
 
for sure if you over torque the rod bolts it'll distort the connecting rod cap and then your back to square one with junk rods . so yes def plastigage. cheap insurance
 
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