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Balanced and Blueprinted?

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I may be wrong but all engines are balanced when they are machined. My 383 in my truck is balanced to 0 on the front of the crank and to .005 grams at the rear. We left it at that after an hour and a half of trying to get it to 0. The blue printing is just writing down all the measurements from your engine the final deck height, bore, rod lenghts, things like that. Any good machine shop will do these when build any engine. This is just my experiance though so it may be different for you.

Michael
:laser: :talon:
 
Im wondering this as well. If you have an engine balanced/ blueprinted, does this mean that the engine wont vibrate as much with balance shaft elimination? Im looking at a magnus engine and just wondering if its balanced and blueprinted does this mean it wont vibrate as bad as my old engine that had balace shafts removed? Thanks
 
When they balance it they are balancing the rotating assembly to with in one (1) gram from end to end, or 0 if possible. How they do this is by removing small amounts of material from the balance pad's on rod's, and a VERY small amount can be removed from the flat bit about the wrist pin in the pistons. Also they can drill out specific spots on the crankshaft once the rods, and pistons are all balanced.

95EclipseGST said:
Im wondering this as well. If you have an engine balanced/ blueprinted, does this mean that the engine wont vibrate as much with balance shaft elimination?

Generally this is the case. I don't want to say all the time, because things happen, and nothing is for sure in this world. But yes since the engines rotating assembly is balanced so close to 0 out of balance this will cut down on all or most vibration's. Some people are lucky enough to not have there engine vibrating after removal of the BS.

As far as blue printing goes it just taking down EVERY single measurment from an engine built to either OE spec., or aftermarket. I actually just finished blue printing a 350 earlier this week.

boostedinaz all engines are balanced...but to an extent. Most factory engines arent balanced as close to 0 as a performance engine thus why they incorperate balance shaft's, and harmonic balancers. The rods have large balancing pads on them so your able to get it much closer to zero if you take the time to do so, but its not worth it to the manufacturer, because there isnt anymore profit from doing that then just getting it close enough.
 
Im wondering this as well. If you have an engine balanced/ blueprinted, does this mean that the engine wont vibrate as much with balance shaft elimination? Im looking at a magnus engine and just wondering if its balanced and blueprinted does this mean it wont vibrate as bad as my old engine that had balace shafts removed? Thanks

Balancing the rotating assembly of an engine will lower the vibrations at the base frequency of the engine. It will have no effect on harmonic imbalance at two times the frequency of the RPM of the engine.

Harmonic imbalance that is canceled by the balance shafts results from the changing geometry of the rod/crank as the crank angle changes. See page 41 of http://www.kidzuku.com/StrokeOrNot.pdf for more details.
 
All stock engines are balanced, that is why they last so long, and that is what the holes are drilled in the counter weights for. When you rebuild or build a performance engine, I can't see not balancing and blueprinting the engine. If you just get your block machine and throw the parts in, it's gonna be out of balance. Not an outrageous amount but it will be. Balancing is just another thing that helps improve longevity of the motor.
 
Custom balancing is a waste of money. Even if you get it perfect, oil windage will still throw the balance off. Read Power Secrets by Smokey Yunick for an explanation from the master.

Note: Go ahead and get custom balancing if you also have a dry-sump oiling system.
 
Custom balancing is a waste of money. Even if you get it perfect, oil windage will still throw the balance off. Read Power Secrets by Smokey Yunick for an explanation from the master.

Note: Go ahead and get custom balancing if you also have a dry-sump oiling system.

I have read that book. It isn't the 80's anymore where everything is flat tappit and these aren't all out race motor's. For longevity balancing is very important. And for the cost why not. Cost me an extra $75 for the whole rotating assembly. Ask Rau or Shep if they balance there stuff.
 
Custom balancing is a waste of money. Even if you get it perfect, oil windage will still throw the balance off. Read Power Secrets by Smokey Yunick for an explanation from the master.

Note: Go ahead and get custom balancing if you also have a dry-sump oiling system.

Well they do have these crazy little things called windage trays to keep the cranks from whipping through the oil, and they also have knife-edging which works quite well with cutting through the oil like a knife [thus the name "knife-edging"]

But I tell you what; you just throw your assembly together, and Ill balance mine, and we could see who's lasts longer. With forged rods why do you think the balance pads are MUCH larger then metal powder, or cast balance pads? Because the manufacturer KNOWS that there will be inconsistancies with the weight from rod to rod, and rod/piston combo to rod/piston combo.

Your throwing things out there that were valid idea's...20 years ago. And also used for race sistuation's...not daily driven hundreds of miles each day.

Also like Adam stated the cost is cheap enough where it won't break the piggy bank to have the rotating assembly balanced.
 
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