gusu
15+ Year Contributor
- 1,950
- 33
- Sep 9, 2009
-
Independence,
Oregon
Okay, so I have asked a similar question before as to why my car starts and runs funny but I think I kind of asked it in the wrong way.
I have researched the best I can with my limited knowledge of how the cars electrical system works. Anyway here it goes.
So my car one day started having idle surge issues, I had the battery die with in a few weeks of that happening. A few months later my alternator died very suddenly. It literally went from working 100% to dead but it was the original alternator, I was kind of surprised it showed no signs of being bad.
So after replacing both nothing has been going wrong with them but when I am stopped some times with somewhat little load or sometimes heavy load the idle surge goes away or my power will seem to want to totally cut out!
Now my car makes a clicking noise when trying to start it but when it actually starts to start it will start right up with no struggle at all. When I let off the gas though all of my lights in my car dim significantly and the car almost seems to want to die from time to time.
Now say if my car is idle surging turning the heat on will cause it to stop surging, I checked the ISC and it was totally fine even tried my friends working one. Also if I am at a stop light my car will only SOMETIMES almost want to lose electrical, I have had to cut out all together once. Also note my battery terminals are totally new and everything was grounded properly by Lucas English so that is not an issue.
Another problem I have is the car seems to want to die unless I give it way more clutch than normal and will continue to do this until I get it to about 4500 RPM. It does not have anything to do with operating temp at all. I have had my car sit for 30 minutes running to test it and it did not help at all. The car HAS to hit around 4500 RPM for it to stop driving like shit, once I do that it will have zero problems studdering, if I leave the car off for too long it does it again... even if the car does not cool down very much.
I guess my question here is could the alternator relay be causing the power from the alternator to not be going to all of the electrical components listed, resulting in them to have the symptoms listed?
I also checked all of the fuses both under the dash and inside the engine bay. The only fuse I don't know how to tell if its blown is the big 80 alternator fuse. All of the wires looked like they were intact from the view I have through the cover. The wires going to it were even new looking
I have researched the best I can with my limited knowledge of how the cars electrical system works. Anyway here it goes.
So my car one day started having idle surge issues, I had the battery die with in a few weeks of that happening. A few months later my alternator died very suddenly. It literally went from working 100% to dead but it was the original alternator, I was kind of surprised it showed no signs of being bad.
So after replacing both nothing has been going wrong with them but when I am stopped some times with somewhat little load or sometimes heavy load the idle surge goes away or my power will seem to want to totally cut out!
Now my car makes a clicking noise when trying to start it but when it actually starts to start it will start right up with no struggle at all. When I let off the gas though all of my lights in my car dim significantly and the car almost seems to want to die from time to time.
Now say if my car is idle surging turning the heat on will cause it to stop surging, I checked the ISC and it was totally fine even tried my friends working one. Also if I am at a stop light my car will only SOMETIMES almost want to lose electrical, I have had to cut out all together once. Also note my battery terminals are totally new and everything was grounded properly by Lucas English so that is not an issue.
Another problem I have is the car seems to want to die unless I give it way more clutch than normal and will continue to do this until I get it to about 4500 RPM. It does not have anything to do with operating temp at all. I have had my car sit for 30 minutes running to test it and it did not help at all. The car HAS to hit around 4500 RPM for it to stop driving like shit, once I do that it will have zero problems studdering, if I leave the car off for too long it does it again... even if the car does not cool down very much.
I guess my question here is could the alternator relay be causing the power from the alternator to not be going to all of the electrical components listed, resulting in them to have the symptoms listed?
I also checked all of the fuses both under the dash and inside the engine bay. The only fuse I don't know how to tell if its blown is the big 80 alternator fuse. All of the wires looked like they were intact from the view I have through the cover. The wires going to it were even new looking
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I also tried hitting boost surprisingly my car hits boost WAY sooner in 4th gear at 15 MPH but not only that my car no longer studders at high RPM with full boost. Another great thing is my lights no longer dim while I take off the gas and it does not want to stall when I try to come to a stop... it had actually died on me twice. My personal favorite is my car holds 15PSI until 6500 RPM and drops to only around 10 PSI at 7000 RPM. This is a huge improvement since my car would only hold 15 PSI until around 6k RPM and at 7k RPM would only hold around 5!
