2G Bad MAF?

[Dryppical]

So I’ve been trying to get my car to run for a while, I finally got my exhaust on and I put back in my stock O2 sensor over my wideband to see if that would help any as it seemed like it was super rich. I could smell it and the plugs were black.

Didn’t do anything for me so I decided to unplug the MAF and boom, it starts idling. It’s not the best but it’s a step in the right direction. The rear O2 is out so there’s an exhaust leak there so it does sound kinda crappy still.

I also would like to do a boost leak test, but anyways, I assume this means my MAF is bad right? Could I go to a MAF-T instead?

I’ve been planning on going to a MAF-T eventually but with this, I can just make the swap now instead of wasting money on a stock one and then going to MAF-T later. Or should I just find a used good one for now and throw that on and see what happens then?

First video is before I unplugged MAF and second one is after.

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This is with MAF unplugged

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[evil_eagletalon]

I dont think it means the maf is bad. Im sure the computer detects it being unplugged and goes into some preset map to stay on.

You need to ensure there is no “unmetered” air post MAF. This includes boost leaks and anything on the intake tube after the MAF.

Unmetered air is only detected by the o2 sensor so the o2 sensor tells ecu to add more fuel.

Hope it makes sense

 

[Dryppical]

Yes, that does make sense. Tomorrow I will do a boost leak test and see what I find out. Hopefully it’s something simple. One thing I did notice is the car was severely under power. Like extremely. Barely to 10mph and that’s it. I backed it out of the garage to burp the radiator and also top off the transmission fluid. Could also be something to do with the transmission. After my boost leak test, if I find any leaks, I’ll fix them and if all is good, I’ll double check the transmission fluid to make sure it’s good. I just replaced all fluids recently but couldn’t finish transmission and coolant as it didn’t run.

 

[Dryppical]

I did a boost leak test and there’s a massive leak from the intake manifold on the bottom side. Won’t even hold pressure. Looks like it’s time to do an intake manifold I suppose

 

[evil_eagletalon]

That is a good place to start. The o2 sensors only job is to read OXYGEN and they do a good job .

 

[Dryppical]

Alright, I replaced the intake manifold. Did another boost leak test and heard some leaks and it actually held some pressure. Decided to start at the beginning and work my way out. The j pipe leaked, decided to come back to that. Then checked the couplers and every single one leaked. Tightened them some and all of them were good. The first one I ever put on a couple months ago, I tightened too much and snapped it so decided not to go nearly as tight and clearly wasn’t enough. Anyways, got to the throttle body and the outside gasket leaked and the biss screw. Checked the vacuum lines I had and they were cracked so I replaced them. Now the only leaks left were the j pipe, throttle body and biss screw. I’ll grab the o ring from the hardware store in a bit. I replaced the gaskets for the throttle body and j pipe and added some gray rtv. How long should I let it sit before doing another boost leak test? 24 hours?

 

[evil_eagletalon]

overnight should be good

 

[Dryppical]

Ok, thank you. I will report back my findings tomorrow