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Bad Idle? Did search (Video)

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mitecl96

10+ Year Contributor
460
9
Feb 20, 2012
McMinnville, Tennessee
My car has been idling bad every since I got the car over a year ago. I have tried to figure it out the whole time. About to give up:(. I have searched and come up with that my power steering pump has a switch on it and if it wasn't connected it would be telling the ECU that the pump was under load all the time causing the engine to rev up a little. Well looked at my car and yeah mine was missing the wire. Well took apart the wire cover going to the A/C compressor and CO2 sensor and found the wire. Got a female bullet connector and it fit tightly on. Hoping this fixed the idle and turned on the car and no still idled bad.
Idle problem - YouTube
When it went to 2 rpms is when I taped the gas to show also how slow it returns to idle.
I have all the vacuum lines hooked up right. The ECU is new. I am pulling 2 codes P0118 and P1294. One I know has to do with the coolant temperature due to my radiator leaking. But already looked both codes up and read about them.


And please this is a GS so don't send me to one of the thousand of threads that have an idling problem with a GSX or GST and having a leak. I already have read those.
 
420a or not this engine still responds similarly to vacuum leaks and sticky idle control motors. Though not as common to fail as the 4g63 IAC motor the 420a version does tend to get alot of carbon buildup from years of use and even more so if you still have EGR.

If you have a code for coolant temp then that needs to be rectified before you go looking for physical problems, because if that sensor has problems you can be very sure that the way the engine runs is going to be affected, and probably most noticabely the idle. If the computer is not happy with the temps it is seeing it can have strange reactions to what the sensor is telling it compared to whats really happening.

Even though the vacuum lines are hooked up its important that there are no leaks, there are not very many lines on these engines so it does not take long to trace them for breaks.

Just for good measure make sure the throttle cable is not adjusted too tight.

And my final tip to you if none of the above does any good is to block off your EGR temporarily to see if that helps. You can loosen the bolts for the tube on the back of the intake and put a nickle (if i remember right) between the flange and the intake and then tighten them back down. Just to see if the system is causing a strange idle problem.

Good luck.
 
I have traced all the vacuum lines and they are all clear and have no leaks. But the EGR tube you are talking about I had off when I was tracing a oil leak and had the intake completely off. I replaced all the gaskets. But the EGR tube was clogged with like some black powder stuff but I cleaned the tube out. But was wondering about the EGR could that need replacing.

The coolant temp. is something new that has started last Thanksgiving and the idle problem has been a lot older. But I am working on replacing the radiator and the sensor when ever I can get a hold of the money.

The throttle cable is right checked it when I put back together the intake. The idle air control valve is new also.

I will try blocking off the EGR tube either tomorrow or Thrusday when I find some time.
Thanks for the help so far.
 
Ok, I blocked off the EGR tube with a quarter like you said and nothing has changed. What else do I need to check or what could be the problem. I am showing no codes and check engine light is off.
Please help, car is driving me insane.
 
P1294 im guessing is most likely your issue. Check IAC Motor Passages, Vacuum leaks, Air induction system and possibly your throttle body/linkage.
 
It is no longer a problem. The only reason that came up was because I had a vacuum line unhooked to stop it from idling bad and wanting to die. When I have it hooked up is when I have a idling problem and I pull no codes when hooked up right. I have checked all what you said.

I still have a bad idle problem and I need help please help. I've had the problem for over a year and no one seems to be able to help me with it.
 
You need to fix the coolant temp sensor first before throwing more parts at the car. The coolant temp sensor effects ignition and fuel on the car. If the code is on the ecu is already in limp mode and is substituting a preset value. A p1294 is a manufacture specific code and that indicates that idle differs from target rpm for more than 12 seconds. Those two right there are directly related to an idle and engine performance issue. What are you using to pull codes? You need to see pending codes because that p1294 might not throw a MIL light right away.
 
Last edited:
The Idle air control valve is new. I guess I will save up to replace the radiator and sensors and get back about this idle problem. Might be a while though don't make all that much money.
 
Well I was told that I that I should fix my cracked radiator because getting low on water might not help. So I figures I would replace everything at once.
 
Which switch/sensor do I need to get to fix this problem because there is two.
Do I need the temperature sender switch or the radiator fan switch.
I am guessing the most expensive one cause with me that is always the case LOL. My luck with things, never the cheaper way.
 
That would be the radiator fan switch, which of course I now have replaced the temperature switch. So my luck, and it being the more expensive of the two.
 
OK I have replaced all the sensors in the coolant part of my car and I am still getting the code P0118 . Both engine temperature sensors have been replaced. Only code I have. Please help this idle problem is driving me crazy and wanting to push my car off a cliff.
 
I just bought my 96 with 420a it had been sitting for a few months before i bought it. some days my check engine light would come on and some days it wouldnt. it would idle rough and cut off at stop signs. i ran my codes with a new scantron that tells codes in words. my problem was the MAP sensor. it was about 70 bucks but fixed my problem. hope this helps.
 
Your code 0118 is still showing after you replaced the sensor? If this is the case you probably have a bad or unhooked ground wire somewhere. Follow the wire as far as you can and try to identify the loss of circuit. If you have a tester, check your new sensor and see if it has the proper resistance. Do a search to find that number if you don't have a chilton's or some other service manual.

Don't quit it, get determined....and you'll win :thumb:
 
Was looking in my fuse box and it looks like I am missing a relay. In the two rows of black relays its the row on the left second one down from the top. Cause this be a problem? I've tried to put the horn relay there but it didn't seem like there was anything there to plug in. It was really lose.
 
Finally got around to checking the wires and grounds. They all where fine no problems. This is blowing my mind. New sensor and fine wires. The ecu is new. What else could be missing.
 
Finally got around to checking the wires and grounds. They all where fine no problems. This is blowing my mind. New sensor and fine wires. The ecu is new. What else could be missing.

How did you check the wiring, visually, or with a multimeter?
 
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