Bad FPR?

[ExpresS]

I'm running out of options so i'm now focusing on my aeromotive FPR. At idle the gauge reads perfect psi. My car stumbles, misses...honestly feels like a bogged down dirtbike when rev'd. Had gas in my oil and my car is running retardedly rich. Also CEL flickered when rev'd. My ECU seems ok. No clicks or leaky caps. Changed my Coilpack, plugs, wires...etc.

I pulled the vaccum line from the FPR itself not the tee. The threaded fitting smelled like gas...


halppp.

 

[dented_coffee]

Try starting the car and then take the vac line off the FPR. If as comes out or starts to drip out of the nipple when it's running to get pressure behind it then the diaphram in the PFR is bad.

Having a gas smell in the vac line could be from other things rather than a bad FPR. I thought that having gas in the oil was washed out rings, broken rings, washed out walls. I could be wrong on that but I would run compression test wet and dry to see whats going on with the rings.

 

[ExpresS]

Try starting the car and then take the vac line off the FPR. If as comes out or starts to drip out of the nipple when it's running to get pressure behind it then the diaphram in the PFR is bad.

Having a gas smell in the vac line could be from other things rather than a bad FPR. I thought that having gas in the oil was washed out rings, broken rings, washed out walls. I could be wrong on that but I would run compression test wet and dry to see whats going on with the rings.

I'll try the vac line test tommorow. +1 on that compression test.

 

[ExpresS]

My fpr gauge is reading around 20ish psi and when you gas it, goes to about 37(stock). Sound right?

 

[dented_coffee]

The readings are for BASE fuel pressure at idle.

Take the vac line off and plug it while you set the aftermarket fuel pressure regulater to where its reading the correct base fuel pressure then plug the vac line back on the FPR.

I would make sure your timing is in check and your BISS screw is properly adjusted because them both have an affect on idle, and timing that could affect your fuel pressure settings.

 

[ExpresS]

The readings are for BASE fuel pressure at idle.

Take the vac line off and plug it while you set the aftermarket fuel pressure regulater to where its reading the correct base fuel pressure then plug the vac line back on the FPR.

I would make sure your timing is in check and your BISS screw is properly adjusted because them both have an affect on idle, and timing that could affect your fuel pressure settings.

After shutting off the car how much fuel should stay in the rail?

 

[dented_coffee]

I think that would depend on what fuel setup you have. I know that stock bleeds out to releve a little bit of pressure. Thats why when you turn the key on the pump does and initial prime for starting to bring pressure up.

I could be wrong with that info above but I find it mostly true.

 

[ExpresS]

YouTube - Help! car running rich/sputtering My car sounds almost identical to this. I took out my SAFC and replaced it with link v3.

 

[DIMONDSTAR77]

my car is doing close to the samething. did this ever get resolved?

 

[stevenr816]

Check your FP at idle without vacuum, it should be around 40psi. Once you put vacuum on it will drop down. If your vacuum at idle was 20psi then somethings wrong. Either the AFPR isnt set right, fuel pump/filter/strainer are clogged. Or your diaphram is leaking.

 

[DIMONDSTAR77]

i do have a 6-bolt, so shouldn't the pressure be a bit less since the compression is less as well from the 7-bolt engines? filter been replaced in the last few months, the fuel pumps a wally 255 was in the car already when i got it, so not sure about the strainer either.