2G Awd drivers axle help!!

[black97spyder]

I know this topic has been covered alot and I couldn't find a straight forward answer to my problem.

I have a 97 Talon AWD and i bought the car in pieces with the engine blown and just got done dropping my fully built 7 bolt in it as a replacement


Anyway this is my first AWD and Im trying to get the stub part of the drivers side axle into the transmission so i can then hook it to the rest of the cv that is still in the drivers side hub. I tried loosening my a/c compressor to give me some more wiggle room to try to get it in... Somehow the previous owner got the stub shaft out of the car without removing any suspension and I'm trying to get it back in the same way (without removing any suspension parts) I am at a stand still until i can figure out how to get it in the trans and was tired of not making any progress so i decided to call it a night.

Does anyone have any advice or tricks on how to get the stub part of the shaft into the tranny??

 

[NSRT4]

you dont really have to get much off the suspension which you have to do.
just loosen the top control arm joint, 17mm, and make sure the knut is half way out of the joint thread. get a hammer and tap or just basically hit the spindle part till it drops or get a separator then unbolt the brake lines 12mm bolt then just put the spindle outwards, that should give you plenty of room to put it back in.

 

[black97spyder]

So i will have to undo some of my suspension to get it back in there??

I have been fighting with the Damn thing for like an hour trying to stuff it in without undoing any of the suspension

Could you give me a little better walk through? What all parts do I need to mess with on the suspension?? I just got confused with how u described it, sorry

 

[cianfar]

Click on drivetrain and choose 2g awd Clutch replacement link. Look about halfway down the article and It'll explain everything
Visual Frequently Answered Questions - Home Page

 

[black97spyder]

Thanks cianfar!! I checked it out pretty detailed.... Only thing im worried about Is ruining a lot of $$$ worth of suspsension.

I had to completly replace my WHOLE front suspension on my spyder gst because I had Problems removing my axles. Everything was severly siezed and a 20 ton press could not press my axles out when that happened, it just broke the end of the cv on one and snapped the spindle on the other side . This cost me about $1,500 for all new ball joints, tie rods, hubs, cv's and everything in between.... This is What I'm Trying to avoid with my AWD Talon.


Any other suggestions To help keep me from ruining a bunch of stuff that I cant afford right now?

Thanks

 

[cianfar]

You can try loosing up the carrier bearing bolts. The two bolts that mounted on the ac bracket and manuever the transmission around with your Cherry picker. Becarefull not to accidently cut the axle seal. You still have to take the passenger side axle out.

 

[black97spyder]

I'm trying to install them, not remove them. I removed them in my other car and ran into those Problems, sorry if i confused you.

I'm trying to stay away removing suspension stuff in order to install the cv stub.... Lol I'll even resort to a grinder if i have to, in order to keep from removing the suspension haha..


There's got to be a way to install the cv stub shaft without removing any suspension parts!?!

Has anyone ever done it like I am trying? Or is it just a waste of time and energy to be trying to do it this way?

 

[cianfar]

Jesus man installing those axles without removing suspension is pretty crazy. ! Another way you can try is remove the metal clips from the rubber boots and turn you steering wheels all the way to the left and see if the joint will pop off. Carefull not to let any debris inside the boots. That's all I got for you man.

 

[black97spyder]

Well damn, I guess I'll be tearing into the suspension then ... Can I leave the a/c compressor attached to the bracket on the rear of the motor?

So the way I'm thinking it has to be done is:

1- remove the drivers straight lower control arm bolt at the frame

2- remove the lower wishbone bolt that holds the strut on

3- remove the small bracket that holds the brake line to the strut


Then I should be able to peel the rotor and caliper toward the rear and slide the cv stub in then attach the cv shaft in the hub to the cv stub, correct??

Am I missing anything I couldnt think of???

 

[cianfar]

That sound about right just put a jack under the the whole assembly you're removing cause those cluster of metals are pretty heavy.

 

[black97spyder]

Awesome! Thanks a lot cianfar!!! Hopefully i can save my ball joints.

I already have the drivers wheel off, is there any other tips or advice when doing this??

 

[luv2rallye]

You'll only have to unbolt 5 suspension bolts and nothing else. And you don't have to remove ANY ball joints or brake lines. Just unbolt the 2 lower arms at the chassis end (2 bolts each) and remove the damper fork bolt (1 bolt) and the entire assembly will swing out far enough to put the axles back into the tranny. Here's what the RF looks like on my GST when this is done: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=142961&d=1343792826.

 

[cianfar]

Lube up those BOLTS really good with PB buster or some break loose stuff! Carefull not to bust your knuckles when manuvering all that craps around and DON"T BREAK the metal clips on your boot.

He's trying to avoid all that stuff cause He' is afraid of breaking his whole suspension system. I already show him the VFAQS. Read one of the post above.

 

[black97spyder]

You'll only have to unbolt 5 suspension bolts and nothing else. And you don't have to remove ANY ball joints or brake lines. Just unbolt the 2 lower arms at the chassis end (2 bolts each) and remove the damper fork bolt (1 bolt) and the entire assembly will swing out far enough to put the axles back into the tranny. Here's what the RF looks like on my GST when this is done: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=142961&d=1343792826.

The Way you put that makes it a lot more simple than what it seemed to be! That was exactly the response I was looking for since I can't do it any other way, or so it seems..

5 bolts won't be bad at all, I just hope they aren't all siezed up like my spyder was. So I'll hit em with some wd40 and pb blaster before I go at it!!

 

[cianfar]

good luck man!!

 

[black97spyder]

Thanks bro!! I'm ready to get that axle in because i'm psyched to hear these bc288's for the first time when I fire her up.

I know this is off subject but, does the starter ground wire have to be on the top starter bolt on the bellhousing side or can the ground be on the trans bolt next to the top starter bolt?? I would figure a ground is a ground but If it matters I'll switch it.

 

[luv2rallye]

5 bolts won't be bad at all, I just hope they aren't all siezed up like my spyder was. So I'll hit em with some wd40 and pb blaster before I go at it!!

I just remembered there's only 4 bolts! 1 on damper fork, 1 on chassis end of lateral lower arm (straight one), and 2 on chassis end of compression lower arm (curved one). The bolts on the compression arm go into the frame so I don't know if you can spray anything on them (maybe from behind cross member though an opening) but the bolts are big and usually come out ok because they are protected so you may not have to spray (I never have). The straight arm (lateral lower arm) bolt will be the hardest as it can rust itself to the bushing it goes through - so make sure you can get this one loosened before spending time on the others. Plenty of PB Blast, tap, and wait overnight.

I've done this many times and removing in this order will make it easier (after all have been loosened slightly). First raise the front of the car and put on jack stands under the frame rails (put hardened wood pieces on the stands so it won't puncture through any rusted frame rails). Do compression bolts first. However, before removing them raise to normal damper spring compressed height the whole assembly via a floor jack under the bottom of the knuckle (jack right under and on the control arms ball joint bottoms). Raise to where car body is just about to lift due to damper spring being compressed. This will remove the horizontal force that's trying to move that compression arm out of position from where the bolts line up with their holes. Otherwise you won't be able to remove the compression bolts (you'll see what I mean when you do it - without raising, arm will try to be cockeyed hindering bolt removal). Then remove compression bolts. [When you put that arm back on, you'll have to again raise it the same way just to get the arm to line up with the holes so bolts can be put back in.] Now remove jack and then unbolt damper fork and straight arm bolts.

Before reassembly put anti-sieze on all bolts - DO NOT FORGET THIS!!! Install damper fork bolt without nut (may have to put jack under straight arm and raise it slightly to get holes to line up with fork). Then raise it (under straight arm same place) to get forward compression arm hole to line up and put long bolt in there loosely. Then put in straight arm bolt without nut (may have to raise/lower slightly). Then raise/lower slightly again until rear compression hole lines up and put shorter bolt in loosely. When all bolts are in, raise to where car body is just about to lift, put washer/nuts on and torque them all to spec. It's important to tighten them all only when suspension is at normal compressed height so rubber bushings aren't twisted at normal height.

If doing my method you can't get the bolts out you can try NSRT4's way but it involves removing the upper ball joint (which I never like doing if I don't have to). I tryed his way once but also couldn't get the assembly to swing out far enough on my GST (even with turning the wheel - but perhaps your AWD drivers side may be different).

 

[luv2rallye]

does the starter ground wire have to be on the top starter bolt on the bellhousing side or can the ground be on the trans bolt next to the top starter bolt?? I would figure a ground is a ground but If it matters I'll switch it.

It will work best (least resistance) if you put the ground under one of the two starter mounting bolt heads on the bellhousing. That way the 50-100 amps will go directly into the starter via the starter bolt - not through the bellhousing first which adds resistance.

 

[black97spyder]

Thanks a million luv2rallye!! I will def be doing it your way!!

When you say put a jack under the lower control arm and compression arm, am i doing this to take the load off the suspension??

Car is already on 1 jack stand (drivers side) and have the wheel removed already so all I should have to do is take the load off the LCA's with a jack to get em free and then when It's time to put stuff back together, I Jack the suspension back up to align the bolt holes and keeping the rubber from twisting when i go to bolt em to the chassis?

Thank you very much for the detailed explanation!!!!

You helped a ton guys thank you Soo much!!!! Took me an hour and a half but i got the cv stub in and bolted down

Surprisingly none of the bolts were very siezed, the worst one was the lower strut bolt or wishbone bolt. It was kinda siezed to the inner bushing so i had to pound with a hammer and hose It down with some pb!!

Very close to startup!! I'm so excited! Thanks again!

 

[Vincent Pandolph]

I just remembered there's only 4 bolts! 1 on damper fork, 1 on chassis end of lateral lower arm (straight one), and 2 on chassis end of compression lower arm (curved one). The bolts on the compression arm go into the frame so I don't know if you can spray anything on them (maybe from behind cross member though an opening) but the bolts are big and usually come out ok because they are protected so you may not have to spray (I never have). The straight arm (lateral lower arm) bolt will be the hardest as it can rust itself to the bushing it goes through - so make sure you can get this one loosened before spending time on the others. Plenty of PB Blast, tap, and wait overnight.

I've done this many times and removing in this order will make it easier (after all have been loosened slightly). First raise the front of the car and put on jack stands under the frame rails (put hardened wood pieces on the stands so it won't puncture through any rusted frame rails). Do compression bolts first. However, before removing them raise to normal damper spring compressed height the whole assembly via a floor jack under the bottom of the knuckle (jack right under and on the control arms ball joint bottoms). Raise to where car body is just about to lift due to damper spring being compressed. This will remove the horizontal force that's trying to move that compression arm out of position from where the bolts line up with their holes. Otherwise you won't be able to remove the compression bolts (you'll see what I mean when you do it - without raising, arm will try to be cockeyed hindering bolt removal). Then remove compression bolts. [When you put that arm back on, you'll have to again raise it the same way just to get the arm to line up with the holes so bolts can be put back in.] Now remove jack and then unbolt damper fork and straight arm bolts.

Before reassembly put anti-sieze on all bolts - DO NOT FORGET THIS!!! Install damper fork bolt without nut (may have to put jack under straight arm and raise it slightly to get holes to line up with fork). Then raise it (under straight arm same place) to get forward compression arm hole to line up and put long bolt in there loosely. Then put in straight arm bolt without nut (may have to raise/lower slightly). Then raise/lower slightly again until rear compression hole lines up and put shorter bolt in loosely. When all bolts are in, raise to where car body is just about to lift, put washer/nuts on and torque them all to spec. It's important to tighten them all only when suspension is at normal compressed height so rubber bushings aren't twisted at normal height.

If doing my method you can't get the bolts out you can try NSRT4's way but it involves removing the upper ball joint (which I never like doing if I don't have to). I tryed his way once but also couldn't get the assembly to swing out far enough on my GST (even with turning the wheel - but perhaps your AWD drivers side may be different).

I just removed the strut bolts and tie rod ends, pull axles out and swing out the way. Whole clutch job takes 5 minutes

 

[luv2rallye]

I just removed the strut bolts and tie rod ends, pull axles out and swing out the way.

Hey if that works, great! Someone always comes up with a better way. [As long as people don't remove the axles from the hubs when they don't need to - that is the worst nightmare.]