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1G Auto swap update....

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SasaniFab

Proven Member
2,432
788
Dec 1, 2013
Mexico, Connecticut
Ok boys... im getting closer. I installed my battery in the trunk and ran all the wiring Under the carpet. Because i have a ohm harness the factory fuse box is under the dash. This is how i wired it... What u guys think. I have a 2 gauge wire under the floor to that junction box which splits into 4 4 gauge ports.1 wire goes to the fuse box in the engine bay, 1 to the starter and 1 to the small battery fuse box under the dash. I have 3 relays for each of the pumps which are rewired obviously....?
 

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Can someone verify my mistake , thinking it over, i have a 4 gauge from the alt to the pass fuse panel. From the fuse panel another 4 gauge wire running to a junction box that feeds the starter thats connected to the battery. This 4 gauge wire should wire should instead go directly to the pos side of the battery. This is correct yes?
 
Can someone verify my mistake , thinking it over, i have a 4 gauge from the alt to the pass fuse panel. From the fuse panel another 4 gauge wire running to a junction box that feeds the starter thats connected to the battery. This 4 gauge wire should wire should instead go directly to the pos side of the battery. This is correct yes?
 
If I'm reading and understanding it correctly. Yes it should go directly to the pos side of the battery. This reminds me of just like the big 3 upgrade they call in the car stereo world. And as far as amp size it should be no bigger then the size of your alts amperage. That way if you happen to exceed the amperage of your alt you will pop the fuse first before risking your alt, or having low volts on the rest of your system which could lead to crappy performance.
 
Mine runs 2g from the trunk to a power stud from that I ran a 4g to the alt then from the alt to the starter. I then hooked everything that needed power to the power post. I also used a 200 amp fuse since my alt is rated at 180.
 
Before i button everything up i want to double check. This is my setup- The battery in the rear.
Neg terminal- 2 (4) gauge wires to spare
Pos terminal- 1 (2) gauge to cutoff- from cuttoff -(2) gauge under carpet to distribution box under dash
From Distribution block- 1 (2) gauge to starter
From Distribution block 1 (4) gauge to small battery fuse box under dask
From Alternator- 1 (4) gauge to passenger fuse box
From passenger fuse box- 1 (4) gauge ...... this is were im hung up. Should I run this wire back to the cutoff switch or just directly to the pos terminal?
 
Before i button everything up i want to double check. This is my setup- The battery in the rear.
Neg terminal- 2 (4) gauge wires to spare
Pos terminal- 1 (2) gauge to cutoff- from cuttoff -(2) gauge under carpet to distribution box under dash
From Distribution block- 1 (2) gauge to starter
From Distribution block 1 (4) gauge to small battery fuse box under dask
From Alternator- 1 (4) gauge to passenger fuse box
From passenger fuse box- 1 (4) gauge ...... this is were im hung up. Should I run this wire back to the cutoff switch or just directly to the pos terminal?
As long as you cutoff power to the fuse box with the switch is what im seeing on other setups. Donniekak has his wired with the alternator and battery on one terminal from kill switch and another cable going to the fuse block. The one going to the fuse block can be shutoff with the switch. Is this correct donnie?

I think you'll be fine. But other setups have the alternator going directly to the battery/kill switch. I dont have a kill switch installed yet but will add one in the future.
 
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As long as you cutoff power to the fuse box with the switch is what im seeing on other setups. Donniekak has his wired with the alternator and battery on one terminal from kill switch and another cable going to the fuse block. The one going to the fuse block can be shutoff with the switch. Is this correct donnie?

I think you'll be fine. But other setups have the alternator going directly to the battery/kill switch. I dont have a kill switch installed yet but will add one in the future.
I figured it was an easy way to fuse the alt wire. So running it from the fuse box to the switch that shares the + lead to the battery.
 
If u connect it from the fuse box to the switch + then turning the switch off is not going to cut power to the fuse box.
I sont know why this is so hard for me to visualize. The switch, one side goes to the battery , the other runs back to the distri
Block. In the open position its off no way for 12v to go through, when its closed the power can then go to the distribution block and back to the alternator. Am i wrong?
 
If you don’t cut the battery and alternator with the switch it won’t kill the car.
Yah I understand that now, im just asking if i can run the wire coming from the fuse box to the switch im using that connected to the + on the battery
 
Alternator and battery to one switch terminal, and the other terminal to everything.
Right so the alt wire to one side of switch. Then from that side go to the positive side of the battery. The otherside of the switch goes to the front to the starter and lil fuse box.
 
My head hurts. Jk. Sounds like u got it now amsrn13. Now hurry up and keep it moving. I want some updates :hellyeah:
Just a matter of re-wiring the gauges and installing the shift box...... gunna be interesting man
 
Sry to keep bugging you about this but After looking over everything I understand now what the problem is. If I run the alter wire direct from the fuse box to the + on the switch it will remain hot regardless of the switch position. So what your saying is run a lead from the post on the alternator to the pos side of the switch that connects directly to the battery. The other side of the switch runs up to a distribution block under the dash. One lead to starter. One lead to that little 3 fuse box that normally sits on top of the battery. Can i run another lead from the distribution block to the pass fuse box or should i run a dedicated cable from the fuse box to the switch on the same side of the switch.
 
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