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Auto idle adjust and idle charge

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300hpbound

15+ Year Contributor
91
0
Mar 20, 2008
Westminster, Colorado
I understand that there's plenty of "how do I adjust my idle" threads, but none specific to my inquiry.

my 93 talon is an auto transmission. Unfortunately the VFAQ and any other write-ups on 1G idle adjustment seem to go out of there way to specify they're for manual transmissions. If I follow it and adjust my PARK idle to 750 +- 100, when I'm in DRIVE it'll slump down to 500 rpm and I therefore lose a crap ton of voltage because my alternator isn't being run at a high enough rate. I get incredibly dull dash lights and can audibly hear a difference in my stereo between stopped at a light and accelerating/driving.

Currently, just to get it at 900-1000 RPM in DRIVE I have to set PARK idle at about 1500. This also insures I actually get voltage from my alt as well when stopped in DRIVE. Is there something specific that I need to follow for setting auto idle?

Thanks to everyone in advance.
-Shane
 
Based on the FSM there is no difference setting the Base Idle Speed for a Automatic vs a manual. In both cases you adjust the BISS with both the timing adjust and the diag pin on the DLC grounded so it idles at 750RPM. The ECU is responsible for adjusting the idle speed back up about 650 RPM in drive. To do so it needs to have a working ECU, IPS, Inhibitor Switch and ISC, and a correctly adjusted TPS and BISS.

If your idle speed drops below below 650 RPM when you put it in drive then the ECU might not be seeing that the throttle is closed or that you've taken it out of park/neutral, or it can't move the ISC to raise the idle back up.

Finding the cause of a idle circuit malfunction is the same between MT and AT with the addition of checking to make sure the inhibitor switch is working.
 
Clean MAF sensor if you can with electronics cleaner, replace 02 sensor, cleaned mine up a bit.

Like I said in another thread where you suggested cleaning the MAF, the DSM Karman MAF sensor doesn't require cleaning and can be damaged by the solvents.

Changing the O2 sensor might be a good general maint idea but is a real stretch for the root cause here.

Since your new, I'll remind you to reread #3 in the "Before You Reply" above the posting window before you get into trouble.
 
I agree there can be many problem, manifold leak, cracked injector nozzle, bad oring on injector, coils, timing???

Fixed my mustang idle once, bad o2 and cleaned MAF sensor

Electronics cleaner dosen't leave solvent or residue said the electrician. Some MAF's require a special torque bit, what I did was drill out the center nipple that keeps you from using a normal torque spit. Then carefully spray the resistive wire in the petotube. If you drill though your screwed, if you drill a hole where there isn't suppose to be one your screwed. Take your time, be careful not to hit or damage the wire. Spray with electronics cleaner only, I have some right here "Effectively removes oil and other films-without leaving residue" No clean your own dang sensors LOL I'm sick of doing it. You will have a noticeable difference if it was dirty. Surprise surprise the car manufactures want you to buy a new car.
 
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