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2G Auto 97 Spyder gst

Posted by canadagst, Jun 3, 2020

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  1. canadagst

    canadagst Probationary Member

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    Toronto, ON, Canada
    Hi, so this is my first post but have been reading on here for a while. I have a 97 Spyder automatic. I have done all the required safety for the car. Also timing belt, water pump, motor mounts, brakes, lines, oil pan, thermostat plus much more. Added a hks exhaust with new down pipe also. COMPRESSION ENGINE IS IN THE 170'S. Turbo lines all good. Side mount cooler cleaned also.

    I asked if I can install a Garrett t28 just for a mild upgrade and plan to boost to 14. The shop said I WOULD need to upgrade injectors if I plan to and need a ECU because it will run lean. But he says my biggest issue is that's its a AUTO and the tranny will operate like shit =.

    What option do I have to get some more power into this auto? Do I have any ? Do I need to upgrade the tranny to do so? Looking for 275 to 300 hp and would like to know what is my best and safest way? or do I need to buy a 5 speed to get into more hp Thanks
     
  2. ThunderChild

    ThunderChild Supporting VIP

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    I don't see why you couldn't install the t28, but injectors and a tuning solution are definitely good advice. As far as the auto acting like garbage, I can't see why it would. You might notice a small amount of lag with it, but there are some simple modifications that can be done to the auto trannies, regardless of FWD or AWD, that will improve shifting at those power levels for you.

    A more common upgrade is a 16G, but if you truly want a bolt on turbo for your car, the t28 is not a bad choice. It's just harder to find and generally more expensive than a 16G.

    For your levels, I would say basic boltons would be fine. But I would highly recommend a tuning solution and the appropriate fuel mods before turning the boost up on a bigger turbo, even to "only" 14psi.
     

    Street Build 900  3

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    1992 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
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  3. canadagst

    canadagst Probationary Member

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    Toronto, ON, Canada
    Thank you for the prompt reply. I appreciate it.

    When you say there are a few upgrades that can be made to the tranny is that referring to something like a shift kit install ? Is there anything else it would need to support adding power ? So injectors are needed and I will look into that if I proceed. Tuning solutions are referring to getting something like a greedy turbo timer install or a computer that can adjust and be used to tune the car ? When he told me that is a option he mentioned it would make the auto trans run bad. He is saying basically that getting a 5 speed it can be done but with a auto getting over 275 hp is not practical and wok run down the car. He says to just enjoy the turbo it has and stay there. Unless I get a 5 speed. I just wanted to know if he is incorrect as I see them working more on high end cars that are brand new and stacked. I know dsm is a different type of animal.

    if I go for the 16 g which I mentioned I was told on my auto it can’t be done. And if I do it will fry the tranny in no time.
     
  4. ThunderChild

    ThunderChild Supporting VIP

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    Idk who you're talking to, but they seem somewhat ignorant and biased. I'm not fan of autos myself, but I know there are many stock auto DSM trannies running around putting serious power down.

    A 16g is not going to "fry" the tranny. How you drive and maintain the trans is much more important. I wouldn't hesitate to put one on a fwd auto car, I feel it would wake it up considerably.

    Mods I'd recommend:

    Ecmlink (first and foremost)
    Fuel pump
    AFPR
    Injectors
    16g/t28 (whatever you want really, most 16gs are going to struggle to get you to 300whp, but they'll be mid-high 200s which will be quite fun in a fwd auto car)
    Head studs (good upgrade but may not be 100% necessary)
    Wideband
    Trans temp gauge

    For trans:
    End clutches
    Up line pressure (blue wire mod, IIRC)
    Shift kit
    Trans cooler
    Quality fluid

    Some of that is slightly overkill, but it would get you darn close to your goal and allow for a little bit extra down the road.

    Once again I'm not a DSM auto guy, but that's the stuff I've come across while reading/reasesrching here and elsewhere.

    @1990TSIAWDTALON @donniekak @pauleyman @SasaniFab @twicks69 could prolly all give more or better info than myself, or at least point you in a narrowed direction.
     

    Street Build 900  3

    1990 Plymouth Laser N/T
    fwd · manual · 1G DSM

    832  8

    1987 Toyota Pickup/Hilux
    awd · manual · Misc Vehicles

    Street Build 1K  7

    1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder GST
    fwd · manual · 2G DSM

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    1992 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    manual · 1G DSM

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  5. SasaniFab

    SasaniFab Freelancer

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    The recommended upgrade in every situation for the w4a33 is Kiggly frictions and a shift kit at the minimum. It is also important to make sure you upgrade the oil cooler for the transmission. Heat is the autos worst enemy....
     

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  6. canadagst

    canadagst Probationary Member

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    Toronto, ON, Canada
    Great detailed reply ! Thanks so so much for your insight. I have wrote down this list and will be doing some more research on all of it !

    When you say it won't get me to 300 hp did you mean the t28 or as written referring to the 16g?>

    I looked at "big 16g turbo" on. sale from extreme psi for $739 is that the same one /.

    This is my first time ever having work done on a car and just want to be clear on all. sorry for the lack of knowledge LOL. I just want a good weekend car with some pep behind it.

    I wouldn't say the mechanic is ignorant , more trying to not have me spend crazy amounts as to some the car isn't worth throwing thousands at especially when you work on 60k plus cars getting them to 5-700 hp.

    For me I always loved the dsm so not looking at investment value as I know there is no return on what I put in money wise. I appreciate all the info and help. Goes a long way.

    Lastly looking also to upgrade to 17's any tires I should be looking into specifically ?
     
  7. spyderdrifter

    spyderdrifter Freelancer

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    I have had a T28 with stock injectors, no tune, and no issues. While upgrading those is sound advise, the person at the shop is likely talking out his ass to get another sale from you. It wouldn't hurt if you did those upgrades, but with a T28, it's not significant enough. I can't comment 100% on the trans shifting, but that makes no sense either. Now if you went from a T25 to an HX55, you would have issues, but not with a T28.
     

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  8. ThunderChild

    ThunderChild Supporting VIP

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    T28 or 16g will be tough to get 300 out of.

    Yes a big 16g is the same one I'm referencing.

    A good weekend car is what you'd end up with with good bolts ons and tuned as previously discussed.

    Tires are totally in the eye of the beholder. Unless tracking the car, I'd go with whatever gives you the best value for the reputation. I personally like kumho, nitro and Cooper tires for the street. Occasionally falkens.
     

    Street Build 900  3

    1990 Plymouth Laser N/T
    fwd · manual · 1G DSM

    832  8

    1987 Toyota Pickup/Hilux
    awd · manual · Misc Vehicles

    Street Build 1K  7

    1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder GST
    fwd · manual · 2G DSM

    2K  0

    1992 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    manual · 1G DSM

    Street Build 3K  10

    1992 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    awd · manual · 1G DSM
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  9. canadagst

    canadagst Probationary Member

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    Toronto, ON, Canada
    All this info is very very helpful. Thanks so much again. A final question on this topic.

    what is the best turbo option to get into the 300 hp. Let’s say 300-330 range at most. And I’m not talking whp. Talking at the crank. Also for the turbo to get into those numbers. Is the work mentioned above perfect for that or does a more powerful turbo mean a lot more work and upgrades overall ? If yes then I would stay with mentioned and hope to get the 16g which I believe has more kick then the T28 but the boost comes in at higher rpm. From what I have read. What other upgrades can be done to the automatic that give more gains in power aside from the turbo ? Better Cam? Also for a 16g or bigger is a FRONT MOUNT INTERCOOLER NEEDED ? I am also having a rear mount sway bar added as I have read only the rear is giving a advantage in handling.

    once this is all done I will post the car as I haven’t seen it in months.

    once again I want to thank everyone with such helpful advice. Thank you
     
  10. 1990TSIAWDTALON

    1990TSIAWDTALON Moderator

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    Your transmission is controlled by a completely different computer than the car is so it is obvious to me this fellow doesn't really know his cars. We had a Spyder JUST LIKE YOURS. Put a 20g, FMIC and some injectors and ECMLink and it was running with 12.5 street cars, FWIW.
     

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    13.620 @ 108.460 · 1G DSM
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  11. ThunderChild

    ThunderChild Supporting VIP

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    A FMIC isn't a bad investment if it's a quality piece, but I wouldn't say it's necessary for a weekend cruiser car. The stock SMIC is going to heatsoak quick under hard driving/hotlaps, but regular, spirited driving it will work for the time being.

    Crank hp I'd estimate you could get to the mid 300s, but unless you actually engine Dyno things we'd never know. You'll be in the high 200s/very low 300s with a decent tune and the supporting mods discussed here. You could push it a little higher maybe, but that would stress the components and the auto is going to soak up alot of power getting you there.
     

    Street Build 900  3

    1990 Plymouth Laser N/T
    fwd · manual · 1G DSM

    832  8

    1987 Toyota Pickup/Hilux
    awd · manual · Misc Vehicles

    Street Build 1K  7

    1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder GST
    fwd · manual · 2G DSM

    2K  0

    1992 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    manual · 1G DSM

    Street Build 3K  10

    1992 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    awd · manual · 1G DSM
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