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ARP head stud install?

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eric91gst

15+ Year Contributor
163
0
May 30, 2006
Sylvaina, Ohio
hey guys, one quick question. For the studs that screw into the block, do i wanna ose loctite on these. Thread these in hand tight and then back them off a turn? For the nuts that screw onto the studs once the head is on, do i just wana use the moly lube on these threads?
-thanks everyone
 
Use moly lube if you can. Others use engine oil but that means you have to torque the studs a bit higher than if you used moly lube. I personnaly used moly lube and torqued the studs to 90 and haven't had any issues and i beat on the car a good amount at 20+ psi daily.
 
olmytsi said:
Use moly lube if you can. Others use engine oil but that means you have to torque the studs a bit higher than if you used moly lube. I personnaly used moly lube and torqued the studs to 90 and haven't had any issues and i beat on the car a good amount at 20+ psi daily.


so just use the moly lube for the studs that screw into the block, no loctite? And also use the moly lube on the nut/washer combo, no loctite here either?. The instructions that comes with the studs says use arp thread sealer for the threads that screw into the block. This is the idea that i got of using loctite.
 
why dont you want to use the moly lube on the nuts and washers also? If not, is there anything else you put on these besides the moly or do u just put them in dry
-thanks
 
why dont I want to use the moly lube for the nuts and washers, or should I? If not, is there anything besides that I should put on these, or should i just put them in dry and have just the studs be the only thing that I put something on?
-sorry for all these questions
-thanks everyone.
 
When you install the ARP studs use the lube on BOTH the threads that screw into the block and the "top" threads that the nuts screw on to as well. Then torque to specification in 3 steps...........25%, 50%, and then 100% in the appropriate pattern.

Do not use Loctite on either side of the stud.
 

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Like everyone else said, I used the moly lube on both end of the stud, into the block and the nut/washer combo. Then torqued down in sequence and in stages of 25, 60, 90 ft/lbs. I've done it this way on three motors and have yet to have any problems.

BUT last time I did it on my motor one of the nuts did'nt have any threads cut into it, how weird is that??
 
ok one last question. Ive read through a couple of threads on this and somebody suggested to tighten the studs into the block snug and then back them off a turn because this will give more accurate torque readings. But, the paper that comes with the arp's says just screw them in hand tight and thats it. Ive tried tightening them down into the block and then backign them of a turn, but by doing this the studs seem to have a little side to side play sitting in the block. The way ARP says to do it doesnt.
My question is what should I do?
-thank you
 
ok one last question. Ive read through a couple of threads on this and somebody suggested to tighten the studs into the block snug and then back them off a turn because this will give more accurate torque readings. But, the paper that comes with the arp's says just screw them in hand tight and thats it. Ive tried tightening them down into the block and then backign them of a turn, but by doing this the studs seem to have a little side to side play sitting in the block. The way ARP says to do it doesnt.
My question is what should I do?
-thank you




Follow the ARP instructions.
^^^^
X 100

Who's opinion would you rate higher...
The professional engineers at ARP or...
some ####ing guy on the internet you dont even know?
 
Yeah I already cut my engine mount for that purpose but hey thanks for the help and good insight, its much appreciated!
 
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