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Mine is still curing, I can't tell if its an air pocket or just soft, been in my "oven" for over 10 hours at 200 degrees.
 
Well everyone -

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Man you have no idea. Everytime I start an engine for the first time I expect it to explode in my lap. Hahah.

Those are Brian C. 272's with Supertech Dual Valve Springs and 1mm Over Valves.
 
Trust me I know the feeling. On Colton's car I had the cop wired for a 99 and had the 95 ecu in the car. When it tried to start it kicked and I knew it was a miss fire. Made a sick feeling in my stomach for a moment. Required the cop and it fired right off.

I know I will be a nervous wreck when it's time to start mine as well.

That thing sounds sick, I already know I'm going with 272's on mine. Anyone want a set of stock cams and springs. Lol.
 
Trust me I know the feeling. On Colton's car I had the cop wired for a 99 and had the 95 ecu in the car. When it tried to start it kicked and I knew it was a miss fire. Made a sick feeling in my stomach for a moment. Required the cop and it fired right off.

I know I will be a nervous wreck when it's time to start mine as well.

That thing sounds sick, I already know I'm going with 272's on mine. Anyone want a set of stock cams and springs. Lol.

Haha. Man, speaking of that - I had a COP setup on it and tried to start it. It wasn't having it. So I went ahead and hooked up the stock coil system with wires, tried it again, same issue. Turned out to be a bad PTU. Coincidence? Could have been the cause of failure in the first place. ;)

So now she's running a bit rich, likely due to me simply uploading the injector sizes. Now it's time to dial it in. Need to get my wideband working and logging so I can have My1GDSM setup the base tune for me.

Now I'm a bit nervous. I did the Bogus head mods, so I'm going to pull the oil cap and start the car to ensure that everything is flowing properly. God forbid there's an' oiling issue. Everything seemed fine, however, when I hand pumped it so who knows. I'm likely just making myself nervous. Going to run it a few more times and change the oil/filter again to make sure any crud stuck in there is gone.

Also, compression is amazing. The exhaust puts out so much damn air displacement it's retarded.
 
Zach, have you started/finished the port work on your head.

I started taking the head down today. I really don't want to take out much, just remove the casting and clean it up.

I haven't finished it all up, I have done the BogusSVO Oil port mod, gasketmatched and cleaned up the casting on the intake runners, and broke off the casting flash on the inside of the head.

I need to find a day to do the exhaust ports, I think I'm just going to clean them up and knife edge the exhaust dividers. I'm tempted to try to do some bowl work but now "exactly" sure what I need to do, the photos I find on the boards are not detailed enough as it is a "shop secret" for most places. Maybe just clean up the flash and I'll be happy with it.

I figured with the work I've done I'll have a nice rebuild ready to go another 190k miles (guaranteed it won't make it that far before I blow it again LOL).
 
What about knife edging the intake runners?

I don't think I'm going to touch the bowls. I don't want to lose the bottom end response and if done wrong it does more harm than good. The inside cast flashing is horrible so Ill be cleaning that up for sure.
 
From the posts that I've read in the cylinder head forum the knife edge on the intake runners does not do much good, the work in the bowls is where things are gained. However, as you said I don't want to mess it up so I'm just going to go with a cleaned up head. People have done GREAT runs on the stock head so a slightly cleaned head should work for my goals.

I'm going to have the head decked and hot-tanked after I finish to get it perfectly clean as I don't want to have the OCD fears that Keiya is having LOL. Ofcourse I am already worrying about things that may have fell into the block when I prepped it with a long board despite the fact that I blew it out with air.

Also, I decided to try a new trick to get my oilpan to seal without slathering RTV on there. I decided to superglue the cork/rubber gasket that came in my full engine gasket set and hold it in place with the bolts while it drys (without the oil pan). This creates a water-tight seal against the block and then only a slight skim of RTV on the oil pan will get a good seal. This works good if your oil pan is slightly warped as well and makes it much easier to release the next time you pull it.

We will see how well it works, I have had good luck with gaskets before.
 
You know I feel more and more like my car everyday. Getting my head ported (root canal), gold plating, and carbon fiber shafts for the crown LOL. As I lay here getting drilled on I keep thinking, I wonder how well these tools would work to port the bowls on my head at home.....
 
If anyone comes across a 2G AWD Auto transmission in good shape let me know.
 
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