The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Arkansas members

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Holidays and funerals, man. Today is my first day back to work in over a week.
 
Holidays and funerals, man. Today is my first day back to work in over a week.

Agreed, same thing around here. Way too much family around I have been dieing to get back to the office. Luckily we are getting better weather this week and I can get the talon back on its own weight an driving around. Been installing my LC1 an it has been a bi*** because of the PO welding the exhaust into a single piece.
 
Agreed, same thing around here. Way too much family around I have been dieing to get back to the office. Luckily we are getting better weather this week and I can get the talon back on its own weight an driving around. Been installing my LC1 an it has been a bi*** because of the PO welding the exhaust into a single piece.

I can imagine - I'm just going to drive mine to the local shop and have them do it on the lift. I plan on getting the last bits of this talon together. Still can't get my hands on a suitable oil feed line for the turbo. Getting a bit frustrating. =/ I did get the other bolts that I needed, though.
 
Meh, guess il have to choose between a bike and a build, what she don't know is the build will cost more. Question, I plan on going 2.3 stroke, will I need a tuning solution for it right off the bat? Like it not getting enough fuel or air due to the computer thinking its a 2.0? I plan on running a 14b at 12 or 14.
Of course no BS, and will get luke to do the oil port mod..
Priced stroker kits 1500$.... That's just forged bottom end. Not to mention the block work. If the motor is shot, il use green beans block.
 
A 2.3 will see load differently than a 2.0. Sure, people have ran them untuned or without any sort of compensation, but why would you? If you're going to build a stroker, do it all the way. BSE, Stroker Kit, ARP Rod bolts, ARP Head Studs, a nice set of 272's, and a tuning solution. Budget, anyway. Otherwise I'd preach about head work first.
 
A 2.3 will see load differently than a 2.0. Sure, people have ran them untuned or without any sort of compensation, but why would you? If you're going to build a stroker, do it all the way. BSE, Stroker Kit, ARP Rod bolts, ARP Head Studs, a nice set of 272's, and a tuning solution. Budget, anyway. Otherwise I'd preach about head work first.

Like what needs to be done to the head? Machine wise? If I do it, it will take along time anyways... Might as well get exactly what I need. Or do I need to maybe get a 4g64 head or something?


Well guess the insurance is settled, not really getting much back, but at least it will be paid for.
 
Meh, guess il have to choose between a bike and a build, what she don't know is the build will cost more. Question, I plan on going 2.3 stroke, will I need a tuning solution for it right off the bat? Like it not getting enough fuel or air due to the computer thinking its a 2.0? I plan on running a 14b at 12 or 14.
Of course no BS, and will get luke to do the oil port mod..
Priced stroker kits 1500$.... That's just forged bottom end. Not to mention the block work. If the motor is shot, il use green beans block.

That block we got from beans might not even be worth messing with. It will probly have to go .40 over just to clean the one hole up that is bad and thats if thats even enough. Whoever put that engine toghether with the evo 8's in it destroyed it by having the oil pump gear out of time and upside down..... :confused: . Thats why I went ahead and pulled the engine from my gst and built it instead of worring about all the other small stuff needed for that block. Plus you'll need the hardware for the block anyways. Brandons engine may or may not be shot but I would buy a block from tuners before using the block of death from beans.... In my opinion. I could be wrong tho :p Well it is official. I am now a resdent of MOWMOW(Maumelle) LOL but my Talon is still in Searcy and my engine is in Little Rock. All I have left on the engine is to remove the bolt that is snapped of in the intake, bolt on the turbo, and a ss oil feed line for the turbo. I did however run into a small snag on the exhaust of the Talon. Since I went FWD from AWD and planned on using the the AWD exhaust my down pipe is a little to short to reach the AWD exh. Small potatoes compared to everything else I have overcome
 
So I finally got the car back together and I fear I may have lifted the head from a boost spike last time I drove it...

I'm hoping its just from sitting and being cold but this was after an idle for about 20 mins.

[ame]http://youtu.be/RxDbvchfp5g[/ame]
 
Negative, besides a 4g64 head is sohc, wouldn't even consider it. Go with 2g 4g63 head. I believe 40 over would put the bore to 86( I'm memory serves me correct stock bore is 85.5) no reason the stock head would be a problem.

Hmm. Learn something new every day.
 
Negative, besides a 4g64 head is sohc, wouldn't even consider it. Go with 2g 4g63 head. I believe 40 over would put the bore to 86( I'm memory serves me correct stock bore is 85.5) no reason the stock head would be a problem.

No it isn't required, your correct. As you can swap a 63 head on a 64 who's bore is 87.5 or 86.5. Cant remember but yeah the 63 will work for whatever bore really. And yes 40 over is 86 mm.
 
So I finally got the car back together and I fear I may have lifted the head from a boost spike last time I drove it...

I'm hoping its just from sitting and being cold but this was after an idle for about 20 mins.

Smoking - YouTube

Could be from it being cold. How warm was it outside? Are you loosing coolant? We got a coolant pressure tester, but it really only works real well on hoses and gaskets, with that being said if it slowly leaks down, you could have a problem

I did head work on a pontiac with a blown head gaskets, it wasn't smoking and there was no water in the oil. The fracture was so slight it would hold great pressure for hours, but after it warmed up it would push coolant back out of the puke tank. Beat my head against the wall on that one.
 
It was about 45 degrees out and was putting out some good clouds. I'm not losing any coolant that I can tell and the oil looks fine as well. I'm gonna keep an eye in it and drive it around some this afternoon to see if it is just residue or oil that has built up from sitting. I've done the head gaskets many times before so its not a big deal just a pain to have to retune the whole thing again.

I already have a spare HG from my gasket set and will throw in some ARP bolts as well but want to make for sure before I do that. I I need a rebuild I'm pulling the whole engine to make it easier and clean up the bay and block. The wife sure doesn't want to hear this LOL.
 
I'm currently looking for a bigger Turbo, and waiting on Bobby to get a front bumper so I can plastidip the car. Been debating on switching to a t3 setup, just wanted to keep everything "bolt-on".

I have to quit going to harbor freight, I end up spending the car money on more tools. Last trip I came home with a low profile 2.5 ton floor jack.

I did get the garage cleaned up enough to maybe get a second car in there.

I am now a resdent of MOWMOW(Maumelle) LOL

You know I work in Maumelle right?
 
It was about 45 degrees out and was putting out some good clouds. I'm not losing any coolant that I can tell and the oil looks fine as well. I'm gonna keep an eye in it and drive it around some this afternoon to see if it is just residue or oil that has built up from sitting. I've done the head gaskets many times before so its not a big deal just a pain to have to retune the whole thing again.

I already have a spare HG from my gasket set and will throw in some ARP bolts as well but want to make for sure before I do that. I I need a rebuild I'm pulling the whole engine to make it easier and clean up the bay and block. The wife sure doesn't want to hear this LOL.

Pull the coolant cap and start the car. Watch it for about 5-10 minutes. If it keeps bubbling, even in small amounts, time to rip the head off.

As for bore - I wouldn't go over .040. Considering the Deck style of our blocks, I feel unsafe going over .030 which is what my Talon ran. Gave it a nice diesel-like sound, though. If you are unsure that a .040 bore will clean a block up, toss the block. By then you're looking at Larger pistons anyway and already outweighing the value of the block. What the hell happened to the block anyway?

Beans, why are you handing out destroyed blocks?! Lmao.

Also, in regards to the 2.3 question : If you're going 2.3 then it really depends on the method. Are you picking up and building one out of a 2.4 4G64 block? Taking a 4G63 block and installing the 2.3 crank/rods/pistons?

There isn't any 'machine' work you have to do, exactly, but the fact of the matter is that the engine creates more torque so it generates more power using larger displacement values than a 2.0. The ECU should be privy to this information, otherwise it's going to treat the engine, airflow values, fuel values, etc, as a 2.0. Would you want your Chevy 5.7 running on 5.4 values? :p
 
Then you obviously don't know it's pronounced MOWMAW! LOL the pizza boy at the little Cesar's said so himself!! And crererazzzggyy bred and maybe a 2 leetirr MOWMAWntaindoo. Haha!
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top