Are these ALIGNMENT SPECS okay?

[aka Lloyd]

I just bought new tires and want to make sure they will not wear prematurely or abnormally. I am a bit concerned with the Right Front camber b/c it should be + and the Rear Right toe b/c it should be closer to 0. Here are the alignment specs on the printout:

Front

Toe : LF = -0.01, RF = -0.04
Camber : LF = 0.1 , RF = -0.2


Rear

Toe : LR = 0.08, RR = 0.21
Camber : LR = -2.0, RR = -1.5



Do I have anything to worry about?

 

[Dream On]

What car do you have? 1g? 2g? Turbo? Update your profile if you want people to respond.

 

[aka Lloyd]

okay thakns for the heads up... I just joined not so long ago so I am still learning the ropes

BTW, I have a 1G AWD Laser with a stock turbo

 

[aka Lloyd]

Can anybody else help me out

 

[weith1111]

I don't know jack about alignments, but I do know searching for "alignment" would yield some other threads about the same topic, and what people who do know what they are talking about, said in response.

 

[Mist3r Spool]

I just bought new tires and want to make sure they will not wear prematurely or abnormally. I am a bit concerned with the Right Front camber b/c it should be + and the Rear Right toe b/c it should be closer to 0. Here are the alignment specs on the printout:

Front

Toe : LF = -0.01, RF = -0.04
Camber : LF = 0.1 , RF = -0.2


Rear

Toe : LR = 0.08, RR = 0.21
Camber : LR = -2.0, RR = -1.5



Do I have anything to worry about?

Are you asking because you got into some type of accident? You specs are similar to mine, with the aspect of having one side always being a bit different from the other. As far as camber is concerned, your readout is damn better than mine, my rear camber is over 3 degrees on each side WTF I need to go and order a camber kit already...

 

[aka Lloyd]

I don't know jack about alignments, but I do know searching for "alignment" would yield some other threads about the same topic, and what people who do know what they are talking about, said in response.

I have actually done a number of searches on this website as well as DSM Talk and learned a lot about alignments. But this questions more specific than the threads I have read. I know all the experts say 0 toe front and rear for best tread life. My front toe on both sides is pretty close but my rear toe is not. I want to know how much rapid or uneven tire wear are we talking? I would not care so much but the tires are brand new, over $500 for the set with then balanced and an alignment done.

 

[aka Lloyd]

Are you asking because you got into some type of accident? You specs are similar to mine, with the aspect of having one side always being a bit different from the other. As far as camber is concerned, your readout is damn better than mine, my rear camber is over 3 degrees on each side WTF I need to go and order a camber kit already...

No accidents yet, knock on wood. I am asking becasue I want to tires to last as long as possible. I am a college student and have to stretch my money as much as possible. That's why if I dont have to get an alignment, I can save myself some money. The shop I bought the tires at did the alignment for free so I don't feel right going back there and demanding 0 toe.

 

[weith1111]

I want to know how much rapid or uneven tire wear are we talking?

The first couple threads I read said any toe over .25 will end your tires quickly. And if you are going to have any little bit of toe, you would want toe in, not out. I think the -2.0 camber in the rear is a bit much too. The alignment place should get the toe to zero, free of charge.

 

[aka Lloyd]

The first couple threads I read said any toe over .25 will end your tires quickly. And if you are going to have any little bit of toe, you would want toe in, not out. I think the -2.0 camber in the rear is a bit much too. The alignment place should get the toe to zero, free of charge.

Hey, thanks for the reply. Did you find out that info on this website? If so, what search terms did you use?

 

[weith1111]

Searched for alignment, but only in thread titles; brings back MUCH less to look through. I just looked at my alignment specs too, and the max the rear camber should be is -1.5. I know some of the 2g guys push it to -2 because their cars handle a bit different.

My toe was 0 in front and like -.02 and .08 in the rear. The shop you had this done should be able to get you a LOT closer to zero if not spot on.

FYI I drove about 100 miles with a -.38 toe and lost practically all the tread on the inside 2 inches of my tire

 

[aka Lloyd]

Do I need a camber kit? I would like to try and adjust into spec if I can. I am going to do some more searches and find out the location of the adjustment bolts. Why does the specified range say -1.1 to -2.1 if -2.0 is too high.

 

[weith1111]

You don't really want to be on the edge of the specs. In the middle is ideal, they are saying THE MOST you should be off is -1.1 and -2.1

I was just saying -2.0 is pushing it.

 

[weith1111]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=194469&highlight=rear+toe+bolt

check that thread out, pics too!

 

[undrboost]

I just bought new tires and want to make sure they will not wear prematurely or abnormally. I am a bit concerned with the Right Front camber b/c it should be + and the Rear Right toe b/c it should be closer to 0. Here are the alignment specs on the printout:

Front

Toe : LF = -0.01, RF = -0.04
Camber : LF = 0.1 , RF = -0.2


Rear

Toe : LR = 0.08, RR = 0.21
Camber : LR = -2.0, RR = -1.5



Do I have anything to worry about?

1g plymouth awd alignment (oem specs)
_____________________
front ...............tolerance
in degrees'

camber 0.17__ +-0.5
toe 0__ +-0.24

rear................tolerance
in degrees'

camber -1.55__+-0.5
toe 0.28__+-0.24
_____________________

these are your specs up top in degrees the first number is where you want to be which would be perfect depending on what type of driving your going to do road race, drag....
the second number next to it is your tolerance plus or minus your specs. (ex) rear camber is -1.55 you have a range where it would tecnically still be in specs it can be anywhere in between -2.05 and -1.05 . if there is more than a 0.5 half a degree between the two numbers then it will cause a pull. now looking at your front specs there cool. and your rear numbers they could have done a little better with the toe they could have made the RR the same as the LR 0.08 . to fix the camber in the left rear it requires an aftermarket kit some type of shims for your control arm or something but its really not bad i have seen worse. this is nothing i would be worried with. the reason why it is neg -2.0 ... or neg -1.5 in the rear is for performance. if you look at your car from the rear you should see that your wheels are leaning in this is for taking corners well i have got to go to work just thought i would give you some info so good luck

 

[justin0469]

So when installing a camber kit is it best to install it, take it to a shop get and alignment and readout of camber on all wheels and adjust accordingly? Or is there some way to tell without getting a readout how far it need to be adjusted other then guessing. the insides of my tires wear faster then outside. is a +1.25-3* camber kit enough for most 2g FWD cars?

 

[wret]

So when installing a camber kit is it best to install it, take it to a shop get and alignment and readout of camber on all wheels and adjust accordingly? Or is there some way to tell without getting a readout how far it need to be adjusted other then guessing. the insides of my tires wear faster then outside. is a +1.25-3* camber kit enough for most 2g FWD cars?

The more you know about your car, the better off you will be when seeking any kind of service, including wheel alignment. Many alignment shops will not want to play around with non-factory devices, so it is best to get your camber where you want it before you take your car to the shop.

There are several ways you can check your camber at home:
- Camber bubble levels are available for about $10 from Harbor Freight.
- You can make a pendulum device.
- If you have a very even level floor you can get fairly close with a carpenter's square held against the wheel. With the 24" leg against the wheel and the 16" leg on the floor, your camber is negative about 1° for every quarter inch that the leg is off the floor at the tip.

If your tires are wearing quickly or unevenly, toe is the likely culprit.

 

[justin0469]

It seems to me that if tires wear more quickly that it is from toe, and if they wear unevenly it is because of camber. The inside of my tires have less tread so my tires are slightly like this / \ putting more weight on the inside of the tires. So for negative camber I need a camber kit that adjusts for positive. is 1.25-3* too much or to little of an adjustment to be made?

 

[wret]

It may seem that way, but that is not in fact the case. Additional weight does not contribute much to tire wear. There is some wear caused by camber thrust, and it is true that for the greatest possible tread longevity, zero camber is best. But while you are considering an adjustment that can contribute plus or minus a few percent of your tire life, it doesn't take much toe to reduce your tire wear by 75% or more. I've seen practically new tires on a car with no camber issues worn through the steel belt to where you could see the air inside because of a couple degrees of total toe out.

Edit: Sorry for not answering your question. Yes, up to +3° is enough for normal camber correction.