Anyone tell from these pics if my timing is aligned right?

[truwarrior]

I cranked the motor over on a few shorts to vary it up but are those slits the timing marks and does it look right? Thanks.

http://home.comcast.net/~gvozdjakj/PDC_0079.JPG
http://home.comcast.net/~gvozdjakj/PDC_0091.JPG
http://home.comcast.net/~gvozdjakj/PDC_0096.JPG

 

[GVR4592]

it's impossible to tell from those pictures. The dowel pins on the cam gears need to be pointing up and the marks need to be lined up. You also need to remove the lower cover and check to see if the crank and oil pump gear are lined up as well.

 

[rowlex]

it looks pretty damn close; here's what to do - get a thin ruler or straight edge or something and put the edge of it into those holes and see if it lines up directly with the center of the cam gear bolts.

 

[GVR4592]

How can you say it looks pretty close? You dont know what you are talking about. The cam gears are upside down in the bottom two pics and the first pic the marks aren't even lined up. Look a little closer next time.

 

[truwarrior]

Well my compression is 150, 160, 150, 150. A/F ratio under WOT is 11:1 Full timing to redline, no major boost leaks, but the boost does drop after filling up the intake manifold at about 1 psi a second.

EGT's appear hotter then before at cruise.

Boost is at 17psi, DSMLink est 205 hp and I believe it

HAHN FMIC,
16G EVO
680s
DSMLink
etc

Here's a 2nd gear spool from dsmlink

http://home.comcast.net/~gvozdjakj/spool.JPG

 

[kalla]

The two narrow slots on the cam gears are supposed to be horizontal and line up with each other and the bottom of the valve cover, I usually take a small screwdriver and stick it in there to be sure they line up. You also have to remove the lower timing cover and be sure the lower marks line up too, not just the top.

 

[truwarrior]

Hm, so you can't tell from the pics? I don't think they are gonna line up if it's level with the buttom of the valve cover.

 

[kalla]

You need to ignore the dowels and pay attention to the slots on the gears and make sure they are parallel and pointing at each other.

 

[truwarrior]

You need to ignore the dowels and pay attention to the slots on the gears and make sure they are parallel and pointing at each other.

Are they not? Looks like they are to me?!

 

[rowlex]

How can you say it looks pretty close? You dont know what you are talking about. The cam gears are upside down in the bottom two pics and the first pic the marks aren't even lined up. Look a little closer next time.

obviously it did turn out being "pretty close"

truwarrior - if your still worried about it do the fuler trick i mentioned in my first post.

 

[truwarrior]

Here's a log.

http://home.comcast.net/~gvozdjakj/log.JPG

Amazing #'s huh? It is hot out though, but still...the tires didn't even break loose. The boost is around 14-15 psi.

 

[truwarrior]

Where can I buy a leak down tester locally?

 

[truwarrior]

Now my console lights are going on and off randomly when I switch between the fan speeds and turn the lights on and off. WTF

 

[CyberEye]

Where can I buy a leak down tester locally?

hard to tell when you don't say where you're located at. Snap-on has them, if you want to spend ~400 buck on one.

 

[truwarrior]

Might as well buy a new engine.

Well I guess I'll start with replaceing my grounds...because I don't know why my console light sometimes works and sometimes doesn't... Anyone have a link showing where all the grounds are located?

 

[truwarrior]

If it's something wrong with the engine shouldn't it be blowing smoke?

Only thing that concerns me is that the boost drops when boost leak testing at the intake manny fold, but I can't test a damn thing else without a leak down tester.

I'm in northern IL. AMS changed my T-belt, water pump, etc about 2 years ago.

 

[Joesmoke]

2 years on timing belt would be as long as I would want to leave it. I would change it out.

You have no power because if Im reading that last log right, you are running 13.6 psi and only 11 deg of timing.

Pretty low numbers if you want to make power.

Engine seems healthy, and so does afr so why do you need a new engine?

 

[Joesmoke]

Ok, so I just read that 1st log, and 6 deg's of timing?? Way low. (if I'm understanding the log )

If so, base timing problem, t-belt problem.

 

[truwarrior]

Ya but that's 6 degrees of timing at like 4000rpms. I'm getting usually atleast 15-16 at redline.

Well when I do I boost leak test at the mannyfold it's not holding boost. I can put 20 psi in it but then it drops down to 0 in about 30 secs or so and I can feel/hear air in the oil cap hole, which might indicate that my rings or valve seals are shot but my compression is good and I'm not blowing any smoke. I tried plugging the PCV valve and and can still hear air leaking.

 

[CyberEye]

Might as well buy a new engine.

Well I guess I'll start with replaceing my grounds...because I don't know why my console light sometimes works and sometimes doesn't... Anyone have a link showing where all the grounds are located?

try searching, or looking at all. The ground tutorial is in tech articles on this very site.

 

[ACKERSON]

Ok rowlex maybe I'm just misunderstanding what you are saying. Are you saying to take a straight edge and lay it on the surface of the head the valve cover bolts to and protrude through the timing gear? If that's the case then the marks cannot line up if the dowels are upside down, they would appear to be 1 tooth off. The dowels need to be pointing up and the timing marks need to be lined up horizontally. Here's some pics of the gears with the dowels up and with the dowels down. With the dowels down you can only line up either the exhaust or the intake with the straight edge but not both. If you line them both up they will be about 3/16" below the straight edge. So I guess if the dowels are upside down and the marks line up you could be off a tooth.

 

[steve]

If that's the case then the marks cannot line up if the dowels are upside down, they would appear to be 1 tooth off. The dowels need to be pointing up and the timing marks need to be lined up horizontally. Here's some pics of the gears with the dowels up and with the dowels down. With the dowels down you can only line up either the exhaust or the intake with the straight edge but not both. If you line them both up they will be about 3/16" below the straight edge. So I guess if the dowels are upside down and the marks line up you could be off a tooth.

Because of the way the cam sprockets are made and used, the marks on them aren't 180 degrees apart. The only meaningfull orientation for checking the mechanical timing is when the dowels are pointing up and the two marks are aligned with the centerline of the two cam bolts (that's the same plane as the mating surface for the rocker cover) and the crankshaft timing mark is aligned with it's mark.

The reason the sprocket timing marks aren't 180 degrees apart is because the exhaust cam is 3 degrees 5 mins advanced. The sprockets are interchangeable on 1G's, so one side of the sprocket is marked for use when it's an exhaust sprocket and the other side for when it's a intake sprocket.

ACKERSON's second picture shows the cams in their correct positions.

Steve

 

[rowlex]

Ok rowlex maybe I'm just misunderstanding what you are saying. Are you saying to take a straight edge and lay it on the surface of the head the valve cover bolts to and protrude through the timing gear? If that's the case then the marks cannot line up if the dowels are upside down, they would appear to be 1 tooth off. The dowels need to be pointing up and the timing marks need to be lined up horizontally. Here's some pics of the gears with the dowels up and with the dowels down. With the dowels down you can only line up either the exhaust or the intake with the straight edge but not both. If you line them both up they will be about 3/16" below the straight edge. So I guess if the dowels are upside down and the marks line up you could be off a tooth.

If thats your engine its lined up properly(in the second picture). What I was describing was to put the ruler opposite the direction you have it; instead of having it come "out" of the engine line it up next to it. To describe this in more detail: put the slim edge of the ruler IN the notches for the timing marks on your cam gears, this would put your ruler 1" line pointing to the firewall and the 12" mark pointing toward the headlight. If it fits in the notches and the ends of the ruler go directly through the middle of the cam sprocket bolts your car is lined up. BTW. I've worked on DSM's where the timing was off 2.5 teeth and after re-aligning it the car ran much better and didnt seem to cause any damage. I am very sorry I did not explain this in better detail, it's sometimes difficult to describe things on the internet w/o pictures. I will be more careful in the future.

EDIT: WOW. I just re-read my description of the ruler trick. I did a horrible job trying to explain the ruler thing. I must have been real tired. WTF

 

[steve]

I've never played around with it, but it would take 1/2 turn of the camshaft to put the dowel pin down and that would move the timing mark directly opposite of correct -- so I dont understand the hype about having the dowel pins up as long as the timing marks come together directly.

The marks on the sprockets aren't 180 degrees apart. So with the dowel pins down you aren't using the correct marks. The dowel pins have to be pointing up.

Steve

 

[rowlex]

The marks on the sprockets aren't 180 degrees apart. So with the dowel pins down you aren't using the correct marks. The dowel pins have to be pointing up.

Steve

Steve thanks for the info i've edited my post so not to confuse anyone.

truwarrior: definently check your timing again; make sure the dowel pins are facing up, if they are not redo it.