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Any HP gain with 255HP fuel pump, Mag says 23.2

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Friend of mine gave me the issue and he was like read up on this. I read up on it and it amazed me that it actually made that much power. Now if any of you guys got that mag look at the last dyno graph. The hp droped from 290 at 5.5k rpm's to like 190 at 7k. I know 14b's run out of breath at higher rpms but i didnt know they droped that much. ???? I duno just my 02 cents :)
 
Import Tuners-teh suck


All they ever do now is Dyno the Evo's...I am getting bored of seeing the same damn car!



Oh and don't believe those #'s
 
ZenkaiRacerDsM said:
Holy shiz! Is that true about the dyno charts? I always take it to 7k when I race.... maybe I shouldnt?

You should take it to redline, if your boost doesnt drop off. But if It does, you may want to consider shifting sooner.

A Fuel Pump could increase fuel by increasing your baseline fuel pressure.
 
Im still running the 14b and plan to for a while. I want to max it out. When does the 14b normally start running out of breath?
 
ZenkaiRacerDsM said:
Im still running the 14b and plan to for a while. I want to max it out. When does the 14b normally start running out of breath?

Yeah i'm interested too??? I mean i take my car to the redline and it seem to be alright. Like 3rd or 4th gear i can feel loss in power over 6k.
 
I would not be surprised if they gained that much power from a 255...The HKS FCD is a ####ing stupid mod that makes you go dead lean, if the 255 raised fuel pressure at high rpm's, which is quite possible, then it may have brought the car up in afr, significantly increasing timing. Is this what happened? Who knows.
 
meh, wishful thinking, anything you do with an FCD is inconsistent and unsafe on a DSM. on some other cars they're great though.
 
I definetly feel the power dropping off in the upper rpm as well. But it just doesnt feel right to shift before redline. Im so used to it from having a honda before. I know that in a drag race my brothers 95 gst is faster if you shift before redline, its just going to be a hard habit to pick up. I shall mess around and see the difference.. but ill have to wait till my tranny get rebuilt. :mad:
 
ZenkaiRacerDsM said:
I definetly feel the power dropping off in the upper rpm as well. But it just doesnt feel right to shift before redline. Im so used to it from having a honda before. I know that in a drag race my brothers 95 gst is faster if you shift before redline, its just going to be a hard habit to pick up. I shall mess around and see the difference.. but ill have to wait till my tranny get rebuilt. :mad:

yeah i used to have an integra and if you shift that car before redline your out of power band, basically your screwed if racing. On the other hand my talon i take it to the redline in first and second gear due to shorter gear, then in third and fourth and so on i shift at 6.2k rpm's.
 
That magazine article is false. The dyno was having problems creating numbers that were just not true. This came straight from import tuner. I saw it on another website. They said they were going to re-dyno it to see its true numbers but they never did. :shhh:
 
I dont know if you all know... but there was a previous power pages with that car where they put an intake, hyper ground wires, and n1 catback on it. So it does have those mods as well.
 
I have a funny story to tell about installing fuel pumps:

When i had put on my entire exhaust, intercooler, intake setup.look in profile......i had no fuel mods to match it. I was a newbie and the car was running horrible. It was running so bad i got beat by a n/a 2g eclipse. Well anyways, i was so frustrated that if the new fuel pump(255hlp) didnt work, i was going to sell the car. Well i installed the pump and that thing ####ing rocked. I mean we are talking like 70-80 hp that thing gave me. Like i had just put on a huge shot of nitrous.

I took it out of the neighborhood to launch it and i couldnt even get it to move the thing was spinning so hard. I could hang* with LS1's from a roll witht that car.
 
I am hoping I get the same results, Mine runs pretty strong without any fuel mods so far but I still think I have a long way to go, I do not want to install my 255hp or AFPR untill my datalogger cable I just bought arrives along with the fitting that takes the place of the factory FPR so I can connect my new AFPR to the rail.
 
In response to the original topic, I wonder if the OE pump on their project might have been on it's way out or otherwise malfunctioning. In which case replacing it would likely result in a power gain on the dyno. It's possible some corrosion had developed somewhere in the electrical connection and the disconnect/reconnect process might have been just enough to complete the connection. It's not unheard of. The stock pump wiring was inadequate to begin with (hence the pump rewire mod). Or it could be exactly what ZenkaiRacerDSM said.
"They were probably running lean as #### and the ecu was retarding timing as much as it could.... then when they installed the pump there was more fuel so the ecu didnt have to pull as much timing and ran more. Thus more power." - ZenkaiRacerDsM
Basically, there may have been other factors contributing to these results. Now, if they'd performed identical modifications on 9 other T/E/L's and tallied similar results in each case, then I'd be inclined to run out and buy the same parts they used.

As others have stated, you always have to take things you see or read in periodicals with a grain of salt. Remember, they make a sizable chunk of money by selling advertising space. They may get some sort of kick back if they post dyno results which favor one product or another. They could even fudge the numbers a little. I mean, we're talking MAGAZINES here, folks. For the most part, they can say or do whatever the hell they want. They aren't governed by the "Don't Lie to Your Readers Association" or anything. They're governed by subscriptions and news stand sales. This goes for ANY of our favorite speed freak magazines. Don't get me wrong, the more you read [about your DSM] the better. Just make sure that you at least get several opinions (preferably professional ones) before you start throwing money at your car. Of course, DSMtuners is always a good place to start.

Next, the power curve issue. From what I've seen and heard, 5500 RPM does seem to be the magic number. I've heard a few other DSM'ers mention that. It's also the same point at which my [nearly stock] Laser's 14b runs out of breath. So, generally speaking, at redline a stock 1G has revved way past its shift point. Now if you've made mods that help the 14b flow better, it might be a little higher. You can pretty much use the seat-of-the-pants method to feel where the power drops off in your virgin 1G. Although, once you start changing things, you might want to visit your local dynamometer and get one of those pretty charts made.

Have you ever played the game "Need for Speed: Underground"? I feel it's geared way too much toward the ricetard community. However, I have to give it credit for the way it makes minor changes to the performance of each car based on which bolt-ons you've purchased. The whole objective of the games' "drag race" mode is to shift at just the right moment and missing it could mean losing the race. By the way, is it just me, or does the Eclipse seen in the intro for the game sound like it's sporting a B series Honda motor? Uh... what the f##k, over?

Anyway, a game made for home PC entertainment isn't going to be the most accurate driving simulator in existence. It does help to illustrate my point, though. Besides, your stock DSM transmission starts screwing up when you shift at high RPM. Don't you love to feel that grinding sensation travel up your arm? Does the thought of little metal pieces flying around inside your gearbox turn you on? If so, keep doing it. The rest of us will thank you when you part out your ride after you've found out how much a performance transmission will cost ya. Cha-ching!

Remember that guy who pulled away from you in third gear of his normally aspirated GS-R? Yeah. He's been talking sh## about turbo DSM's. Thanks a lot. Now go practice. :laser:
 
It wont give you more power by itself, it will increase the power created from all the other mods. So if you installed just a fuel pump 255lph, then you wouldnt see much gain as opposed to if you installed the fuel pump AFTER all the other mods. Again, more fuel=more boost, so also you could boost more.
 
if you noticed in that mag article when the dp was thrown on the boost shot up to 17psi. and then they hit fuel cut. so they dumped a 255 plus the fcd(which they didn't need) since it was boosting 17psi. They could of hacked the mas in stead of getting the fcd. Although it still shows dsms are good bang for the buck. also that car had previous mods done to it. so when they dynoed that car for its base numbers in that article, those were the numbers with the mods that were previously installed. not stock numbers.
 
Right. This was the second set of upgrades to this car--there was a previous article where they fiddled with the air intake and boost controller, etc. I inquired about this very article previously, and some dsmer was nice enough to post the first article link.
 
I actually just did not understand the power gain with the 255hp, how that much power could be added by a fuel pump.
Anyway I installed my new 255hp today and noticed a big gain in power, hi and low, and really richend up things to. :thumb:
 
I commend you on installing that thing on your own. how many cans and weeks of PB blaster did you go through trying to get that flare nut un-done?
 
I got lucky, it took ten seconds and they broke loose on my first try :thumb:

The guys at BJ's machine shop(they build shepards engines & the BJ sheet meatal intakes) they told me to put my flare wrenches about 3'inches apart and scweeze them together, and it worked.
 
I like how they got like a 25-75 hp range increase from a DP.

Overall gain of like 36 hp...LOL
 
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