The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Any guidance for a DSM newbie?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

fredleysir

15+ Year Contributor
31
0
Oct 14, 2003
OK, I'd just like a little guidance as far as what parts to get and such with the set up I'm looking at. Before I start, this isn't just a "what i want to do in the next year or two" list, but a "what I am going to do in the next month or two" list. Now...
I'd be "satisfied" with 300-350 whp. Will that get me into the 12s? Yes, I know the FWD will be a major set back in drag times, but I'm somewhat confident in my driving skills (plus slicks ;) ). I want to keep the stock turbo (14B). Here is what's done so far and what I plan on doing:
done:
-car lowered with Eibach Sportlines
-new Falken tires
-Magnaflow exhaust
-K&N intake
-Accel 8mm plug wires
I just ordered an AutoMeter boost gauge from a local shop and they sent me the wrong one. It's the 0-35psi with no vacuum instead of the 30-0-30 I wanted. Will there be any disadvantage to not having a vacuum gauge?
Now, for my plans:
-Joe P. XZ manual boost controller
-steel intake pipe
-upper intercooler pipe
-down pipe w/ no cat
-190 lph fuel pump (Will I need to run the 255? I simply was trying to avoid getting an aftermarket FPR, but if it's needed for my goals, it's no big deal.)
-1 3/4" compressor outlet elbow
-lower intercooler pipe
-modified SMIC by DejonTool
-port O2 housing, exhaust manifold, etc.
Will this get me to my goals of 300-350 whp or running 12s? Please help me out! I'm new to tuning these cars!
Thanks for the space.
 
no, 300whp on that setup, not even close.
low 13's may be in future, but those numbers are very off
 
I just ordered an AutoMeter boost gauge from a local shop and they sent me the wrong one. It's the 0-35psi with no vacuum instead of the 30-0-30 I wanted. Will there be any disadvantage to not having a vacuum gauge?

I recommend a vacuum gauge, it can come in handy when running into problems with your car.
 
i'd suggest the 255 over the 190, you don't have to have a fpr to make it work. mine has done fine without one.

also try to the homebrew 3" intake pipe found in the tech articles. you may want to invest in some type of fuel management (i haven't yet, but if you've got the money then go for it ) like an s-afc. you'll also want to get your exhaust gases out faster so try to at least get a cheap 3" cat-back from rnr. ummmmm, once you get your boost gauge set up, once you are running at the track throw some c10 in your tank and up the boost to about 20-24 lbs at the track only and you should see some quick times.

remember that for fwd cars, it's more about trap speed than times.:thumb:
 
Yeah, after a little research I should have done in the first place, I've come to realize that I'll probably be springing for the big 16G, along with bigger injectors, the 255lph pump, an aftermarket FPR, and an S-AFC.
What sort of problems will the vacuum read out be able to tell me?
It's not that I can't just get the correct gauge, I'm just trying to learn.
Thanks for all the responses and everything so far though.
 
when most people do a rebuild or mods, they will most likely run into one major problem..........on a DSM....plan on alot more than that....LOL..........just a little piece of advice...weve all been there....good luck
 
Originally posted by fredleysir
What sort of problems will the vacuum read out be able to tell me?

Helps to indicate late ignition or valve timing, low compression, stuck throttle valve, leaking gasket, faulty vacuum lines.
 
Also, slamming your car with sportlines will not help you out that much.

Us FWD'ers need little more help than that. I suggest a good set of Adjustable Shocks. Set it hard in the rear and soft in the front. Lower you tire PSI to around 19-21psi. You will also need a LSD of some sort, not an insert but a REAL LSD.

A 14b will flow some good air, but with what you posted even a 16g will struggle for the 350whp mark. For a little extra, get yourself some 660's and a little larger turbo. Tune it good and DRIVE BETTER. You will see it. I know of one guy that got 12.7 on a Super16 and was tuned good w/LSD. That is what you are up against.:thumb:
 
Yeah, I realize that adjustable shocks are in much need. I just get giddy and like to do the go-fast mods before anything else (don't we all?)
I'll definitely have to switch the boost only gauge for the vacuum-boost gauge. I guess I'll have to just take it one step at a time and see how the car treats me. I just wanted to get some general ideas on power output levels, etc. Everyone has been a big help so far, I appreciate all the guidance.
I'll be putting the vacuum-boost gauge and a manual boost controller in this weekend, after I get a compression and leak down test done.
Then we get to turn up the boost a tad!
(This is my first turbocharged car :thumb: )
I'll definitely keep you guys posted on my progress. Thanks.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top