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Anti Lag system

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What about the exhaust valves? I'd assume that you would almost need to have a higher temper valve than stock or you would risk burning up your exhaust valves. I've seen hundreds of customer heads at work which have burnt up exhaust valves from the exhaust valve being open during combustion.
 
In order for that to happen, your customers would have had to adjust their timing significantly, basically rendering their car powerless. The cyl temps don't change any with the exhaust valves being open, the combustion event is just moved later in the cycle, so that the fuel mixture is still igniting int he manifold, thus spooling the turbo.

When I first got the car back togather, I accidently put the tbelt on 1 tooth on each cam off, making it 14deg. off. It ran like complete shit, barely got out of it's own way. Imagine with anti-lag, I will be pull 25deg.. it probably wouldn't even spin the rollers, but damn it'll spool my snail :D
 
autronicDSM said:
How are you going to use 4 sensors when there's only 2 inputs on the ECU?

SM2 model only has extra inputs for that.

And in response to your Dynopack answer, you could do it that way, or just rent an Autronic wideband and tune it on the street. The local dealer rents his for $100/day.. and one could accomplish all the tuning he needed for much cheaper than renting a dyno.

I'm not sure how well a dynopack would simulate the actual load of a car on the street. If you were tuning an n/a car, where it was tp vs. rpm, that would be easy. But with f/i, you have to tune load vs. rpm. You couldn't exactly hold x boost at x rpm without the boost rising, atleast when it's below the wastegate spring setting. Am I missing something?
 
I have SM2 :confused: Can you show me where did you find out about 4 speed inputs? I know there are only 2. There's no way to use anything else for it.

Dynapack can lock speed or load and keep it constant. All you do is open throttle gradually. You don't even need autotune. Dyno has a breaker that puts more load, on the street there's nothing to stop the engine speed from increasing. That makes it hard to tune at full boost because autotune needs about 10+ secs or more to tune a cell. On road I couldn't stay in a cell long enough for autotune to work. Unless you have a map that's pretty well mapped and it doesn't go lean under high load, autotune from a log works very well. Otherwise you might do some damage if you're not paying attention. Autotune is little overrated.
 
My mistake, dynopack would work fine, I was thinking of something else.

Let me do some checking on the traction control, I'm fairly certain the SM2 model has the capability for 4 speed inputs.
 
Taken directly from ECMTuning, Inc.....

"Generically speaking, the term anti-lag refers to a technique commonly used by WRC style cars to quickly spool a turbo while the car is under hard deceleration in anticipation of the hard acceleration that's likely to follow. The technique involves retarding ignition timing so far as to cause the exhaust valve to open well into the power cycle, resulting in extremely hot and explosive gases rushing past the turbine, spinning the turbo up like crazy."

Basically what it does is retards your ignition timing so much that the explosion occurs when your exhaust valves are open. As a result, you can build boost of the line. If you have a 2G, use the 2G DSM link; if you have a 1G, wait a month or so and get the 1G DSM link. Both have the capability to do antilag if you think you need it. Oh, and by the way, if used all the time, it will ruin your turbo.

Hey 14.5 drift, it sounds as if you are talking about stutterbox, not antilag.
~Mark

wait wait wait.........

does this actually ruin the whole entire turbo or just the turbine wheel?
 
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