Anti-lag, revisited

[sleepr Tsi]

I've spent some time, and done a bit of research, and I'm left with some questions.


I've got a turbo that doesn't spool till 3rd gear (it was free). Me and a friend have been tossing around the cheapest way to lower the boost threshold. We thought about making a system that is (aparently) simliar to the rally "bang bang" anti lag system.
What we thought is injecting misted fuel or alcholl (sp) into the manifold via a pump. Then having the pump switched for 10-15 PSI (thus cutting down on the heat/abuse for the mani/turbo). I'm sure that I would be cutting the life short of the compnents by doing this, but by how much?

And more importantley, is it pheasible for 'combustion' to happen in the manifold with EGT's in the 900-1100 range? I just lost my job, and don't have the cash to pony up to a nitrous based "spool kit", so home enginering will have to be my solution.


Edit: This may be the wrong forum for this, if so, I appolagize

Edit 2: The way we planned on working this, is having 2 switches, one for WOT, and one presure switch. So if it sees WOT, but has less then X PSI, then it 'sprays' other wise, it's off.

 

[Defiant]

.
I would most vigorously recommend DON'T.

 

[awd4g63]

Well, you're going to need a job when something breaks; and it will.

 

[DSMJim]

That is not how a rally based antilag system works.

They have the comptuer increase injector pulse width and retard timing 20-30deg so the combustion still happens in the chamber but shoots out the exhaust port as your way past dwell at 20 deg retard and that flame finishes the combustion process on the way out the port which is what creates pressure inside the exhaust manifold to keep the turbo spooled.

THey have a dial inside the car to choose how much boost to anti lag. After 3-4 rounds they have to replace the turbo and manifold completly as they are almost melted right through. This is also why they have over heating probles quite bad when the front of the car is blocked with snow etc. Your EGT in the manifold would exceed 2000deg easily and your probe would likely get melted in the direct path of the flame.

Basically what your asking to do is unfeasable for a street car and really stupid. Your turbo woulnd't last a week of regular driving with something like that.

 

[danielbui]

http://www.smcenterprises.com/ check this place out it is the only company i trust. it has low level warning lights, pump engagement light, progressive controllers and trust me when i say this he is a very good engineer and still is for GM. it is cheaper than any other system on the market for what he offers and is more bang for the buck. he is used with numerous Buick GN's and is very safe for tuner novice. and check this out it is definantly informative. http://www.geocities.com/rad87gn/tech/alcohol.html have fun. always ask the right way.

 

[KooK]

That is not how a rally based antilag system works.

They have the comptuer increase injector pulse width and retard timing 20-30deg so the combustion still happens in the chamber but shoots out the exhaust port as your way past dwell at 20 deg retard and that flame finishes the combustion process on the way out the port which is what creates pressure inside the exhaust manifold to keep the turbo spooled.

THey have a dial inside the car to choose how much boost to anti lag. After 3-4 rounds they have to replace the turbo and manifold completly as they are almost melted right through. This is also why they have over heating probles quite bad when the front of the car is blocked with snow etc. Your EGT in the manifold would exceed 2000deg easily and your probe would likely get melted in the direct path of the flame.

Basically what your asking to do is unfeasable for a street car and really stupid. Your turbo woulnd't last a week of regular driving with something like that.

That was one of the coolest things I've ever read...

 

[Mirage2LTurbo]

Here's a good thread from a while back..

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=136425