2G Another tranny/Clutch problem

[Jacolu3]

So heres my story
Just put in a new Jacks drag tranny for my gsx
New parts
New Oem throw out bearing
New Competion clutch fork
New extreme psi solid shifter bushings (transmission side)
New Competition flywheel
SBC ss series 2200 pp and TZ/B series kevlar ceramic
New OEM Slave cylinder
New OEM Master Cylinder
Full steel braided clutch line

So when I go out for a drive and try to shift into 1st or 2nd(Downshift or from a stop) the tranny will occiasionally block me out. I can drive for 15 mins without a problem sometimes and then it will just happen.
Same thing when the car is off. I can shift into any gear without any issues and then sometimes it becomes difficult to go into 1st or 2nd.
I bled the slave cylinder when i changed the master and slave by holding down the clutch and opening the bleeder with a vacum hose into a bottle of fluid. Did this until i saw no more bubbles.
Just checked for clutch drag
Reved the engine to 6500 rpm from a stop and the car didnt roll foward.
After I bled the slave I adjusted the clutch pedal to get max fluid.
And the clutch fork seems to be in the middle of the window.

Any suggestions on what to try next?

thanks
Brian

 

[Jacolu3]

I just re bled the slave the way team rip says to do it and still no good. I checked all he tranny to engine bolts and they seem to be tight

 

[spyderdrifter]

Perhaps shim the pivot ball?

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[Jacolu3]

Not sure I need to shim it because my fork is pretty center of the window. And when I step on the clutch I get full travel without the fork hitting the bell housing

 

[spyderdrifter]

Odd situation.

 

[Jacolu3]

It sure is.

 

[mitsumike0]

Did you check the flywheel step height before installation? I have a feeling that it's out of spec thus making it difficult to shift into gear. Southbend clutches tend to have a fatter disc material. I have the same exact clutch as you and based off my step height of .608 I had to get the disc material shaved a hair when I ordered the clutch. My brother installed the same clutch and flywheel had the same step height, but he didn't get the material shaved and he dragged. I recommend you do the clutch drag test all the way to redline and do it slowly. Car should not move until you hit Rev limiter. I had cases where cars dragged above 6500 rpm, that's why I say this.

 

[Jacolu3]

I have my link set for rev limiter at 7k. What shoul I set it for this test?

 

[JDT]

With the engine off you shouldn't be having issues shifting into any gear regardless of the clutch hydraulics. I had a clutch spring jam my pressure plate and could still shift in any gear with the engine off.

To me this sounds like either an internal issue with the trans or possibly something blocking the shifter assembly.

 

[Jacolu3]

With the car off I can go into 1-2 ten times without a problem. Then it blocks me off. I checked the cable and the bracket and I don't see anything wrong with either.

 

[GST with PSI]

Sounds internal to the trans.

With the car off, there's really only a few things that can keep the transmission from shifting. I'd say you're looking at an issue with the trans itself, linkages, cables, or perhaps even the shifter assembly.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Sounds like a strange issue after all that everything else all checked out. Could very well be internal.

 

[Jacolu3]

I'm not ruling out anything internal but before I installed this tranny it was inspected by Jacks transmission shop but you still never know.
I just went for a drive and was able to shift into 1-2 no problem and 2-3 no problem and 3-4 no problem but wasnt able to downshift to 2. Once stopped I didn't have any problems shifting into 1 then it 2. But from neutral I wasnt able to shift to 2 without going into 1 first

 

[Jacolu3]

Took a quick video of the shifter play. Wondering if this is normal or if could be the problem

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[JDT]

That's too much play, probably due to your megan shifter not being made with tight enough tolerances. Look closely at the base of the purple piece, it likely has a gap where the OEM shifter did not.

 

[Jacolu3]

That's too much play, probably due to your megan shifter not being made with tight enough tolerances. Look closely at the base of the purple piece, it likely has a gap where the OEM shifter did not.

Do you think this would cause my problem?

 

[Jacolu3]

Just ordered an Oem shifter with new bushings and new tranny mount and all new hardware. Changing everything I can with new parts. Also ordered a speed bleeder just to try a different method of bleeding the slave.

 

[Jacolu3]

UPDATE:
so I got rid of the slop in the shifter by changing the 6 bushings in the shifter.
Than I swapped out the bleeder valve on the slave to a speed bleeder and rebled the slave. Also changed the rubber washers that are in the shift linkage bracket(one was really bad) and took it for a test drive and still didn't solve the problem

I can shift into 1 then into 2 and then into 3 and 4 with no problem. But when I go to down shift from 4 or 3 to 2 the shifter gets very stiff and won't go into 2nd gear.
I found a work around and if I go from 4 or 3 into neutral and go side to side with the shifter a few times the shifter get looser and then I can shift into 2nd gear.
Tried it a few times and worked each time.
Any ideas?

 

[Vegas Smith]

It sounds like an internal issue. I would contact Jacks and see what they say. Good luck.

 

[Jacolu3]

It sounds like an internal issue. I would contact Jacks and see what they say. Good luck.

You don't think that it could be the shift cable?
I have one on order.

 

[Vegas Smith]

Well, I recently replaced my shift cables last week and it doesn't seem like something a bad shift cable would cause because of the randomness of it. I hope it's something small because I know how annoying it is to take out a transmission. Do you have a short shifter or anything? Maybe you could try adjusting the lengths of the cables to get better shifting too. When was this new trans installed? Is this problem directly correlated to the install of the new trans?

 

[Jacolu3]

Well, I recently replaced my shift cables last week and it doesn't seem like something a bad shift cable would cause because of the randomness of it. I hope it's something small because I know how annoying it is to take out a transmission. Do you have a short shifter or anything? Maybe you could try adjusting the lengths of the cables to get better shifting too. When was this new trans installed? Is this problem directly correlated to the install of the new trans?

I do have a Megan racing short shifter that I've had installed for a long time with no issues from it. And it's a 2g so there is no adjustment for the cables unfortunately like the 1g

I swapped out the motor with a built motor and a swapped out the tranny with a jacks tranny with all new clutch and flywheel, throw out bearing and clutch fork all at the same time.
The problem has been happening since the initial swap
I'm going to pull the shifter cables today and inspect them and see how that goes.

 

[Vegas Smith]

But it's a brand new jacks trans? If so, definitely let them know what's going on.

 

[Jacolu3]

Removed the shift cables from the tranny and was able to shift smoothly.
I'm going to email them now and see what they say

 

[Jacolu3]

Heard back from jacks transmission and they feel that it seems like it's a engagement/disengagement issue. "If it were synchro, shift fork, physical gear etc it would happen all the time and not in certain situations"

More and more reading I'm doing it's looking like the south bend clutch is too thick and causing this problem.
But I'm still not sure.