Another Oil Return Leak

[nufoundglry5]

This is obviously something that people have issues with. I've searched and what people recommend, I have done. My engine is on the stand right now and just primed the oil, and noticed a pretty good leak on the oil pan side of the oil return line. I have installed new gaskets, bolts, crush washers, and a new oil pan and still the oil seeps out pretty quickly. I did not replace the oil return line since I never had issues before (was RTV'ed). I can see the oil seeping out of the very bottom of the flange. I'm wondering if the flanges on the oil return lines can bend or warp causing them to not create a complete seal? Should i buy a new line and see if that fixes it or just use RTV?

 

[gofer]

This is obviously something that people have issues with. I've searched and what people recommend, I have done. My engine is on the stand right now and just primed the oil, and noticed a pretty good leak on the oil pan side of the oil return line. I have installed new gaskets, bolts, crush washers, and a new oil pan and still the oil seeps out pretty quickly. I did not replace the oil return line since I never had issues before (was RTV'ed). I can see the oil seeping out of the very bottom of the flange. I'm wondering if the flanges on the oil return lines can bend or warp causing them to not create a complete seal? Should i buy a new line and see if that fixes it or just use RTV?

My car had a constant drip from the oil drain too even after changing the gasket, copper crush washers, & even torqueing the bolts to spec. I didn't go as far as changing the oil pan but I did double up the gasket there and used that copper spray... NO OIL DRIP! Ever since I got it to seal up at the oil pan I only disconnect the turbo side of the oil drain so I don't compromise the integrity of it at the oil pan.

So I would suggest to double up that gasket at the oil drain and copperspray the damn thing, then torque the bolts to spec so you don't strip the oil pan.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

I would stud your oil return line. I believe they are the smaller M6x1.00. After I nut/studded (make sure you put some sealant on the threads that go into the pan) the oil return, a simple clean surface + gasket + very thin RTV did the trick. The stud/nut method allows more torque to be applied as well.

 

[nufoundglry5]

Thanks for the suggestions, I will have to order a new gasket since it is soak in oil now. If this doesnt work I guess i will try a new return pipe.

 

[proteusx301]

I apologize for bringing this thread back, but its the closest to my problem that I could find in my searches. Rather than start a new thread, I figured I would just add on. I installed my e316g last week and the whole install when smoothly. My only issue is my oil return. I used the FP 16g install kit, and their oil return. Had no problems for the first day or so. Then I noticed a small amount of oil leaking past the threads between the flange and 45 degree coupler and the actual threads in the oil pan. When I installed the kit originally, I put a light coating of Teflon paste on the flange bolts and a thick coat on the flange to 45 degree union. So I pulled the drain line back off and cleaned everything and reinstalled with a light coat of rtv this time. Exact same result, I started leaking past the threads. Decided to ditch the FP drain and go to a 10AN pushlock kit with factory gaskets. Installed with new hardware and lightly coated the threads of the flange bolts with Teflon paste again. I installed the AN unions dry. Drove it home and overnight it leaked about a teaspoon of oil onto the garage floor. From what I'm seeing, its either leaking past the AN coupling threads and possibly past the pan bolts again. What should I be doing here? It really only leaks when the car is off as thats the only time oil is level with the drain. Its not a serious leak, but its just one of those things that annoy me and I don't want to drive the car. These are the best pictures I could manage as it sits in my garage. I'm sure everyone knows how low a 2gb's nose sits.

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[gofer]

Like I said in my post above, what fixed my drip at the pan was doubling up on the gasket AND spraying each one with copper spray-a-gasket.

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[proteusx301]

I could see that working if I were leaking between the flange and pan. I've just got a problem of it bypassing the threads.

 

[68442]

I believe the little crush washers seal the bolts. When I was having thread leaking issues I used some teflon tape or teflon paste. I'm sure some rtv on the threads would do the same.

The threads don't seal the AN fitting. Check the mating surface for a flaw or metal burr.

 

[gofer]

You know they make an oil return with no threads so running it could eliminate the possibility of it leaking around them.

MD150523

Just a suggestion.

 

[ziggo0]

By doubling up the gaskets you mean use 2 of them?

 

[gofer]

Yes.

 

[proteusx301]

I might try a factory oil drain for the heck of it. I've got a 1g and 2g oil returns sitting here. Only thing I can't find is a part listing for the factory pan bolts and the crush washers. Anyone ordered them before?

 

[Robert Young]

those factory crush washers are really helpful at that location. I know most people dont bother with them since they are hard to come across, but they are the factory solution to the problem

Some of the mass produced aftermarket drain flanges are 8mm holes instead of 6mm holes, and this can add to the issues.

BOOSTON!

Robert Young

 

[RavenX]

I had issues like that. Got rid of it by buying a new oil pan and welding a -10an bung in that location. No more leaks! .

 

[Turblown]

Only thing I can't find is a part listing for the factory pan bolts and the crush washers. Anyone ordered them before?

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...ush-washers-merged-9-7-a-4.html#post151399499

 

[ziggo0]

For me it's become a science. I've had some horrible oil leak issues that's claimed a motor and almost another and 3 different turbos - but this year it's going fine *KNOCKS ON WOOD*

This year I used oil pan studs, got them off a member here but they are like baby arps with nuts that have teeth in them to hold themselves in, I had 4 spares so I decided to see how they would work for the turbo drain. I stuck a few dabs of grey rtv on them and threaded them in - after 10 minutes they were ready for my process. I take the gasket and put a very thin layer of rtv on it, spread it around with my finger (yummy) and stick it on the oil pan. I then do the same for my drain flange (an fittings) and stick it on, wait 10 ~ 20 minutes, lightly torque it - then make sure the drain is not obstructed.

This has done it for me, no leaks. I also did this the same way for the turbo this year, it's CRITICAL THAT YOU MAKE SURE YOU DON'T OVER USE RTV. Last thing you want is that shit all up in your drain blocking your oil flow. Perhaps next time around I'll try copper spray (worked for my oil pump gasket well).

 

[daren_p]

I apologize for bringing this thread back, but its the closest to my problem that I could find in my searches. Rather than start a new thread, I figured I would just add on. I installed my e316g last week and the whole install when smoothly. My only issue is my oil return. I used the FP 16g install kit, and their oil return. Had no problems for the first day or so. Then I noticed a small amount of oil leaking past the threads between the flange and 45 degree coupler and the actual threads in the oil pan. When I installed the kit originally, I put a light coating of Teflon paste on the flange bolts and a thick coat on the flange to 45 degree union. So I pulled the drain line back off and cleaned everything and reinstalled with a light coat of rtv this time. Exact same result, I started leaking past the threads. Decided to ditch the FP drain and go to a 10AN pushlock kit with factory gaskets. Installed with new hardware and lightly coated the threads of the flange bolts with Teflon paste again. I installed the AN unions dry. Drove it home and overnight it leaked about a teaspoon of oil onto the garage floor. From what I'm seeing, its either leaking past the AN coupling threads and possibly past the pan bolts again. What should I be doing here? It really only leaks when the car is off as thats the only time oil is level with the drain. Its not a serious leak, but its just one of those things that annoy me and I don't want to drive the car. These are the best pictures I could manage as it sits in my garage. I'm sure everyone knows how low a 2gb's nose sits.

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Looks & sounds like you didn't replace the small washers under the mounting bolts when you did the install? Those are infact crush washers & should be replaced everytime you re-install the oil drain.

I've had my drain off 4 or 5 times & never had any issues with leaks (both stock & FP drain lines), one new gasket, clean mating surfaces & two new crush washers for the mounting bolts, torqued to spec, always bone dry.