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Another max big16g thread.

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obsidian

15+ Year Contributor
393
5
Jun 25, 2007
New Orleans, Louisiana
I'm sorry for this I really am but I have searched and just couldn't find an answer that was 5+ years old (threads from 2007, 2005, 2003....)

So, here is the mod list and my plans.

hks 272/272
Walbro 255
ECMlink 3
Ported intake manifold
Evo3 o2 sensor housing
2g manifold
Big 16G
950cc injectors
Front mount intercooler
Hallman MBC
Forge wastegate actuator
GM 3" maf with translator (soon to be swapped for 2g maf)
63mm throttle body
Boost leak test is good to go. No leaks up to 25psi.
Boost leak down test passed.
3" exhaust.

So I do believe all my bases are covered minus ONE. I do NOT currently have head studs installed. Knowing this I've set my boost to 20-22psi daily and it's been that way for a long time. No knock and she pulls like a train.

My plans are to install the head studs I do have and turn up the boost to 27-28psi.

What's the opinions of this expert forum?
What is the max boost I can run from this sucker before I'm losing power?
What is the max HP this setup should support?
 
everything looks like its covered to me... my opinion, install those studs and go 25-30 safe setting, anything over that you need some internals to back that kind of psi's. Also i wouldn't go over 20 to daily drive to tell you the truth, thats overkill, i mean at 20 you should be over 300hp and theres only couple cars out there that can hang with a 300 hp TSI, just saying...
 
LOL yes i like my safe setting.

I'm not bench racing anything but my face when I smash the gas. If my face gets peeled back then I won.

I've run 27psi once already due to a hose busting on my wastegate actuator. Car run like a top and never showed any signs of damage but I still fixed that quickly.

And you're right on the 300hp awd talon. There really isn't much. But I keep seeing Evo's and a 2012ish mustang cobra. Can't wait. But with my remote boost controller I can always turn it up on the fly.

Thanks people!
 
You dont just turn it up on the fly without a tune. I mean you can, but good luck with that. Keep it at a safe setting for the streets and if you turn it up, do so with a tune behind it. Or just keep it tuned at a higher setting.
 
You dont just turn it up on the fly without a tune. I mean you can, but good luck with that. Keep it at a safe setting for the streets and if you turn it up, do so with a tune behind it. Or just keep it tuned at a higher setting.

My tune follows a certain AFR for boost but always aims to give a certain AFR. I've never had an issue at any boost level that I've had it at.

I've got one of the best shops in the world watching my tune. TDC performance in Mobile, AL
 
My tune follows a certain AFR for boost but always aims to give a certain AFR. I've never had an issue at any boost level that I've had it at.

I've got one of the best shops in the world watching my tune. TDC performance in Mobile, AL

I would LOVE to see your timing do the same thing for different boost levels
:sneaky:

Not to mention your MafComp (Which, if it is off, (aka different boost levels due to the amount of air it is pushing), your "followed" AFR is off)
:sneaky:

Just get it tuned for your desired boost level. If your running a gm maf, get one for cold weather and one for warm. I see your switching to the 2g maf. Not sure why, but I believe you should be ok with not having one for each season.
 
Just saying that with my tune I've been fine with whatever boost level I've run.

I hate the GM Maf. My car HATES wet weather and I live in the south! Thunderstorms every day ruin the fun. A 2g maf will compensate for that and it should be good with my HP goal.
 
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