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aluminum shaving in oil after oil pump trouble... to rebuild or not to rebuild

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rabenne

15+ Year Contributor
1,803
843
Apr 21, 2006
Racine, Wisconsin
So this a brand new engine, like 15 miles on it... and the stubby shaft bolt came off the oil pump drive gear. This caused the drive gear to dig into the front casing... This shaved aluminum off into the oil pan...


So my question is, do I need to replace the bottom end bearings?


I am going to SUE !!! Gear Racing Innovative Technology owes me 3G's















STUPID QUESTION... dont answer that... I want to drive the ####ing thing off a ####ing cliff... I have spend too much money on this ####ing thing... anybody want to buy my car???
 
Same thing happened to me. Did your oil pump go from a bad balance shaft eliminator kit? I bought the one with the short stubby shaft with no oil groove. My oil pump went, busting teeth on my timing belt, 2 exhaust valves, and of course the gears in the oil pump went. Then had it all fixed, drove it for about two weeks. Next thing I know I hear a small noise in my engine. It slowly got louder as I drove until I couldn't drive it any more. The shavings from the oil pump slowly made its way down to the passages in the crank. Had to have it turned again, with all new bearings. Oh and this was right after a fresh rebuild like yours. Just thought I'd throw my simliar story at you. You most likely will need new bearings. :cry:
 
Rebuild rebuild sue sue sue.. That is dirt.. Arent they supposed to locktite those when they put them in? I did it to mine..
 
Same thing happened to me. Did your oil pump go from a bad balance shaft eliminator kit? I bought the one with the short stubby shaft with no oil groove. My oil pump went, busting teeth on my timing belt, 2 exhaust valves, and of course the gears in the oil pump went. Then had it all fixed, drove it for about two weeks. Next thing I know I hear a small noise in my engine. It slowly got louder as I drove until I couldn't drive it any more. The shavings from the oil pump slowly made its way down to the passages in the crank. Had to have it turned again, with all new bearings. Oh and this was right after a fresh rebuild like yours. Just thought I'd throw my simliar story at you. You most likely will need new bearings. :cry:


did you car start with 2 bent exaust valves? and how did it run. my cars been bogging when i give it gas just wondering if this is the case.. hope not :notgood:
 
So Gear Innovative is ignoring my emails and phone calls... This means war... its on like donkey kong bitches....



I am going to Florida to meet them in person next weekend... already bought my ticket... gonna show up at the shop unannounced holding the stubby shaft and screaming!!


So I strained the oil in my oil pan through a coffee filter. This was just to determine how much metal was actually floating around in the oil... There were a couple tiny pieces in the filter afterwards, but looks like the majority of the metal stayed inside the oil pump gear housing.

Tomorrow I will pull down a couple rod caps to check for metal shavings...

anybody know where the first place oil travels to is... I can never remeber???
 
So this a brand new engine, like 15 miles on it... and the stubby shaft bolt came off the oil pump drive gear. This caused the drive gear to dig into the front casing... This shaved aluminum off into the oil pan...


So my question is, do I need to replace the bottom end bearings?


I am going to SUE !!! Gear Racing Innovative Technology owes me 3G's















STUPID QUESTION... dont answer that... I want to drive the ####ing thing off a ####ing cliff... I have spend too much money on this ####ing thing... anybody want to buy my car???


This stubby shaft thing has happened to me recently but my gears are still usable and the gear cover ( was scratched from the gears & I also had shavings a very small amount of shavings) and last but not least my bearings were fine.

I pulled off the bearings and they were fine and you're asking a ridiculous question asking us if your bearings are fine you will have to pull the pan off and take off the main bearing caps to see.
 
What kind of warranty do you have with that engine, or did they give you one? If there is a warranty of some kind, then you might want to wait to break it open on the bottom end. They might try to tell you that its your fault if you get too much of it apart. I wouldn't give them a reason to say anything except "we are so sorry, here is your replacement sir."
 
if you pull a rod cap off from bottom of motor to check brearing and everything is fine... do you just retorque back to spec. or must you use some plastic gauge material to check clearance etc. first?

thanks
 
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