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aluminum intercooler piping?

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1fast97gsx

20+ Year Contributor
4,517
17
Jul 6, 2003
Orland Park, Illinois
I'm using aluminum to make my new short route / blow through setup. What do you guys with aluminum piping use to cut it? I hear it's pretty easy to cut but I'm just curious as to what other people are using. Do you take yours just to local welders to have it welded or to a performance shop and pay the extra money? How much are you all spending for the actual welding on upper and lower piping out of aluminum? A local performance shop which shall remain nameless quoted $250 just to weld it at like 6-7 places and bead it on like 5 spots. Thanks.
 
1fast97gsx said:
I'm using aluminum to make my new short route / blow through setup. What do you guys with aluminum piping use to cut it? I hear it's pretty easy to cut but I'm just curious as to what other people are using. Do you take yours just to local welders to have it welded or to a performance shop and pay the extra money? How much are you all spending for the actual welding on upper and lower piping out of aluminum? A local performance shop which shall remain nameless quoted $250 just to weld it at like 6-7 places and bead it on like 5 spots. Thanks.

I use a hacksaw and masking tape for a guide, then a half round file for edge deburr and for squaring the tube ends. Just got back from my welder 5 minutes ago. Tig welded my Thermal R&D exhaust system for a Borla midpipe resonator. Also did all of my custom aluminum work for my I.C. pipes on my FMIC. I can post pics of his work if you like. He charges me about $30 for 2x 360* welds. I cut everything first, test fit it, mark both pieces with a reference line with marker, edge deburr, file flat any tube ends. This keeps secondary operations down to a minimum, keeps the price down too. I am the pickiest son of a bi*** and I'm super happy with his work. He's even got a lift for doing full exhaust system buildups, just bring in your material. Call him for a Quote. If I recall your in the Chicagoland area. The name of the welder is:

Julian Welding, Inc. (Mike Marek)
11546 Austin
Alsip, IL. 60803
(708) 371-0011
 
A miter saw works very well also, as long as its one of the softer series alloy's >6000 or so.
 
Once you start getting your welder involved in cutting the bends for you, he is going to charging an arm and leg. A bandsaw or whatever power tool available is great, if you already have one. Any type of stainless requires zero gap, so perfect cuts are essential. Aluminum is a little more tolerant of gaps and a cinch to cut by hand if need be. IMHO, to keep the costs down, you need to do the cutting & fitting yourself. Thats the reason you were probably quoted $250. I just mark my parts with a marker, and tell them to weld 360*, thats all they need to do, keeps the cost way down. Good luck.
 
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