Alternator Bracket & Tensioner Help 95 4g63t

[turbotemper]

Well my belts have started to make a bit of screeching as of this week and i know theres not enough tension on the belt because of stretched threads on the bolt. I was looking at my zeitronics voltage meter and it would read low like 10.xx and if i reved it the alt belt would catch and it would jump back to 12.9-13.8. I drove it around not even paying attention and all the sudden it finally drained my battery and it wont turn over until its jumped. I noticed today when i was down there trying to tighten the belt that the tensioner bolt threads had been stripped/stretched while being tightened/adjusted the wrong way. BTW I do know how now. I did my alt like 5 years ago and i never found instructions as to how to correctly install and adj the tension on the alt bracket. It has never had a problem before now and im stuck with no ride atm and cant get another bolt from the hardware store! At least until after 6 when its dark out and no light outside around my car. I guess ill be using my coleman LED lanterns in the rain tonite ### its not supposed to stop raining till monday.

I thought about this option:
A few washers around the head of the tension bolt to cover the 1/2 in of stretched threads to allow the section with threads to be used (plenty).
But...will the washers stay crushed between the tensioner flange (the u shape where the bolt lays so you can tighten it up/ put tension) and the head of the bolt??? Im worried about the washers sliding of the flange.

Help please ASAP

 

[Jeff99GS]

Check the Harmonic dampener (crank pulley) They are are know to seperate, leading to loud skreeching and slipage.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/322365-belt-squeak-idle-lights.html

 

[turbotemper]

Im pretty sure the issue is that there is not enough tension the threads were stretched to shit and i couldnt crank down on the alt itself to get any kind of good tension on it.
Also my voltage meter was telling me that the belt is slipping and that it had caught because it jumped back to 12+ volts.

At least i hope this will solve it. What happens to the crank pully exactly ???
Seperate like the pully splits into two ???

 

[Jeff99GS]

Yes the pulley has a inner and outer half with rubber in between. When the rubber gets old it seperates and allows the whole pulley to slip. It will also give you the exact same symptoms you have.

The pulley is what makes the belts spin. If the pulley is slipping then the belts are slipping too. Which could cause the low voltage.

I suppose it could be a streched bolt on the tensioner, but you must have really put a lot of tourqe on the thing to strech it. It's just a tensioner....NOT a head bolt.

Maybe you got the wrong belt. (too big)

Check for oil leaking on the belts from the oil filter housing right in front of it. If oil is spraying on the belts they will never stop squeeking. NO matter how tight it is.

 

[DSM_Nick]

Mine is doing almost the exact same thing. But squeals more when it is cold and on start up. Plus decelerating and then accelerating again. But goes away and volts go up. Haven't checked my crank pulley yet, but need to. But mine is tensioned right and still does it

How much are new crank pulleys? And would it have the harmonic balancer with it?

 

[turbotemper]

well i found a bolt from HD not an automotive bolt with a head that has the washer looking head.
I bought an exact bolt and i am going to use a crush washer to give it the head surface it needs. Not a big washer about the same diameter as the factory bolt would be. So im hoping this works. Will this work ???

I really hope its not the crank pulley. It doesnt squeel alot just a few seconds when its cold. After id rev it to like 2k-3k rpms the volts would go back up to normal. The voltage drop has happened before even without the squelling. Thats what makes me believe its my tensioner bolt. And i gave it a turn like a few threads and wala it got voltage again however i think the threads were barely holding it tight enough. And since its been cold the voltage drop happened more frequently. Shrinking and swelling from heat cycles??? I dunno im just thinking.

 

[knochgoon24]

How much are new crank pulleys? And would it have the harmonic balancer with it?

The crank pulley and harmonic balancer are the same part, just 2 different names. The pulley isn't just your average pulley, though. There is a rubber layer between the 2 metal parts. This dampens the shock from each piston firing. Eventually, from age, road salt, and other reasons, this rubber layer wears out. When it fails, you no longer have A/C, power steering, power from the alternator, and worst of all, the water pump.

EDIT: You should still check the pulley even if you get your belt fully tight. It only take a few minutes and can save you a lot of trouble down the road.

 

[turbotemper]

What should i look for and how should i check the pulley? I have the inner fender liners off already so i can see the crank pulley and everything else down there.
Thanks

 

[knochgoon24]

Tada!
(Searched for "Harmonic Pulley")

When to replace your crank pulley

You already have the hardest part of the job done by getting the fender liner off.

 

[turbotemper]

Thank you for the link

I found these at auto zone: The dorman weighs 5.7 lbs & the pioneer 4.7lbs is the extra $10 worth it? Dos anyone or can anyone weigh their old one thanks.
And they are the cheapest out of all autoparts stores.

AutoZone.com | Vehicle Selection - Year

 

[Jeff99GS]

I have had very bad luck with DOORMAN Harmonic dampeners. They only last about 6 months it seems. I would spend the extra cash and get a stock one, but thats just me.


The harmonic dampener IS the same thing as the crank pulley. I just call it crank pulley so you know what im talking about. Usually if I tell people to change the harmonic dampener they don't know what the hell that is haha.

 

[turboglenn]

I didn't read all the way through this bu if you need i have a spare alt adjustment bolt (long one) and the little block that the adjstmetn bolt and "securing bolt" go through..(top bolts, i'm sure you know what i mean) I make them from aluminum just so they shine, i'll toss you an OEM one for cheap if ya need it PM me

As for dampers..OEM ( I also like fluidyne, but never tried the mitsu one)

 

[turbotemper]

Well i just went and exchanged the old battery for a new one. They said the battery was bad not just dead. This has happened to 2 other batteries in the last 2 years. This last battery was exchanged for a new one in december. 2 months and it was shot. I have no clue whats going on with the battery & charging system. They tested the alt and its good as well as a load test, all is good there. Any one else have this problem?

I will install the new battery and go for a drive to see if there's enough tension and if the battery is getting charged or if its gonna drain it again.
Will the harmonic balancer just spin or turn on the end of the crank, but not at the same rate as the crank? Is this why its not charging?
I am really concerned about the harmonic balancer being the issue now.
Be back to post results in an hour or two.

 

[turbotemper]

I have had very bad luck with DOORMAN Harmonic dampeners. They only last about 6 months it seems. I would spend the extra cash and get a stock one, but thats just me.

Anyone else care to chime in on this???

Are they bad or were you having other problems too?
Not tight enough/to tight? Explain please. Thanks.
Im just trying to get some info? Did you put it on or someone else?
At 6 months its still under warranty right? I've seen most places come with 1 yr warranty.

.

 

[Jeff99GS]

Anyone else care to chime in on this???

Are they bad or were you having other problems too?
Not tight enough/to tight? Explain please. Thanks.
Im just trying to get some info? Did you put it on or someone else?
At 6 months its still under warranty right? I've seen most places come with 1 yr warranty.

.

Yeah the Doorman has a 1 year warranty. They replaced the one that went bad on me. I guess if you like changing parts a lot the the Doorman is a good choice. There is plenty of threads on this site about DOORMAM and their poor quaility....just do a search for doorman. I installed it myself...It only takes 10 min.

 

[2gsxRuiz98]

i an pretty sure you can get an all metal replacement for the harmonic balancer, they make them out of forged aluminum. This eliminates the rubber parts that tends to ware away.

 

[turbotemper]

You mean an under drive pulley set? Post a link if you could.

 

[Jeff99GS]

i an pretty sure you can get an all metal replacement for the harmonic balancer, they make them out of forged aluminum. This eliminates the rubber parts that tends to ware away.

OH NO Don't buy that crap. There is a reason its called a harmonic dampener. It dampens the vibration on the crank. If you switch to a solid crank pulley you can do major harm to the engine over time. The only other option IMO is a fluid damper (Fluidamper)

Please read this thread below. READ THE WHOLE THING

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/problem-diagnosis/285374-i-changed-my-harmonic-dampener-just-time-pics-video-3.html

 

[2gsxRuiz98]

I guess its a good thing I never put one on my crank, I found out about them just after I replaced OEM

 

[DSM_Nick]

So an aftermarket all metal crank pulley would not be good to get? Do they make any aftermarket crank pulleys with the harmonic dampener with it?

 

[turbotemper]

Fluidampr and ATI and they are sfi approved for the track if you ever go that fast

 

[Jeff99GS]

So an aftermarket all metal crank pulley would not be good to get? Do they make any aftermarket crank pulleys with the harmonic dampener with it?

Correct. You DO NOT want to use a SOLID under drive pulley.

A solid Pulley has NO protection against harsh Vibration on the crank. It can cause premature wear on your main bearings.

A fluidampr is the best way to go if you don't want to use an OEM pulley.

 

[DSM_Nick]

Ok thanks. That is really good to know. How much do those aftermarket fluid ones run usually? Cause I think the oem pulleys are like around 100. But I definitely want a good one

 

[turbotemper]

Summit has a sale going right now on all harmonic Balancers I found one for all my cars
$261+tax for the fluidampr
Mitsu wanted $161+tax but got a quote of $147.68 out the door which is a much more reliable part than the dorman piece from what ive heard. I will be buying one or the other this week if i dont figure out the problem im having with low voltage in my 95gst. You can read more in other posts also.

 

[turbotemper]

Ok so im gonna take all the belts off today and hit a few times with a rubber mallet to see if if falls off.
First gotta make some money my neighbor, she saw me working on it and ask whats wrong etc. Told her im broke and cant fix it
See wants a tune up on a corolla, basic oil,plugs,wires,filter, basically check/change everything. Im thinking $60-$100 for that depending on whats wrong of course. And she wants the brakes done they squeal. So that another $60 for the front. So im gonna get some moneyMaybe i can afford the fluidampr we'll see.
Got a new tensioner bolt it just got delivered this morning to mitsubishi. Hoping its just the fact it might not be tight enough but it seems tight enough.
Be back later w/ results