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Air Intake Modification

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GSXtra

10+ Year Contributor
51
0
Aug 31, 2012
St.Charles, Iowa
I have a 1990 GSX and I was wondering what I need to do to change from the stock air intake to a cold air intake. There are alot of electrical conections on the OEM one and Im not sure what I need to do to those if I were to just get a normal pipe and filter to keep my turbo supplied with air. I plan on pushing 20lb of boost and I dont think the OEM one will be able to let that much air in. I just neeed to know what connections I need to keep and what I need to do to the others if they directly affect the engine performance. Any help is great!
 
There are metal intakes that have the stock connections on it. The lines are not electrical, but vacuum lines. You can delete them but i strongly reccomend you keep the valve cover vent line plumbed into whatever pipe you buy. Also might want to invest in some sort of catch can to stop oil getting into the intake/intercooler.
 
By a bunch of electrical things you mean 4 vacume lines and a maf plug. One goes to the wastegate, vc to intake, recirc tube, and to the evap canister. I have the forced performance intake pipe. The dejon one is pretty good as well and has all the nipples out need where fp don't.
 
If you want to get rid of the restrictive stock MAF, you'll need to either get a GM MAF and MAFT, or upgrade to a 2G MAF.

If you upgrade to a 2G MAF, you'll need to hack together a harness. Also there is a difference between the signal from a 1G MAF and a 2G MAF. You'll either correct this in tuning, or by running 550cc injectors (2G MAF + 550 injectors more or less cancels the difference out).

But then again if you are planning on running 20lbs you will definitely need some engine management anyway, and I'd suggest just running the GM MAF.

Either way once you start messing with this stuff you REALLY need a Wideband and boost gauge if you don't want to blow something up.
 
20Lbs and no tune? You need to think of more than just an intake. Also have you tried doing a boost leak test to see if it will even hold 20lbs?
 
haha One of my friends in high school had a lazer, made a boost controller, dialed it in. No boost controller, no tune, nothing other than this homemade brass mbc. The car didn't make it to 3rd gear, but MAN did it go for the first 2 :rocks:
 
There are plenty of other mods I will have on this car. I got this car as a body and the engine bay was in boxes. I am changing everything on this car as I have the money and Time but for now I want to just get it running. The engine has been fully build to hold up to 700 HP so I will be fine with that. The plan is to put all the working stuff back on the car so it runs then change parts out as the money frees up to do so. I will be running the stock turbo for the first few months just to get used to the feel of a turbo, then I plan on upgrading the exhaust mani and slapping on a big 16g or a 20g turbo with a FMIC with hard pipe for most of it. Going to change up the cams to something a bit more agressive and doing a full 3in cat back exhaust. I do have a working boost gauge that came with the car (not the crappy OEM "boost" gauge in the dash) that will work for now and I am looking into manual boost controllers. like I said, I will ###### only be pushing the boost to 15 at the max for awhile till I get the supporting mods put on and working. I am really new to DSMs but I understand all the concepts for working on them. As far as the intake pipe I was originaly asking about, I think I have enough to go on to figure it out. I didnt realize there were so many vacume lines coming from the intake. Thanks to all who gave their input.
 
if you got your hands on a engine built for SEVEN HUNDRED HORSE POWER then how the heck are you askin about a air filter pipe? id like to know more about the engine you got your hands on. i wonder why a 700hp engine would use a factory mass air flow and a stock turbo?

i agree with the above post, read the tech steps carfully. no offense man but ya gotta learn how to crawl befor ya can walk...
 
It is a 6 bolt 4g63 and I took it in with all the parts and had them rebuild it. Everything I bought was rated for atleast 600hp and some even to 800. that took almost $1000 just in machine work and labor not including the parts. I am not bringing in enough money to dump 1k whenever I like so this will be a long process. at this point I just want to be able to drive the car. I build the motor to do 600hp but I dont plan on getting that far as there is to much money involved once you pass the 500 hp mark.
 
I know this isnt a direct answer to your question, more of a suggestion. I think If you spend the few hundred elsewhere, instead of the intake, you will see more gain. A cold air for a DSM isnt the best way to increase power for the buck. :)
 
running a cold air on something with a maf is not really a good idea.....aka water, don't know if it rains alot there or not, but what i would do is try to keep the filter in the same spot and just try little things to get the cold yet still dry air to the filter. like running a hidden tube somehow, i was thinking of doing something similar, just have not gotten around to it yet. just an idea
 
As others have said, CAI's aren't too helpful to DSM's or most "tuners" that are boosted. They aren't bad, but there's better places to put your money, that being said. Any kind of Turbo upgrade is useless without tuning software. It really does seem like you're trying to run before you walk man. Get it running, and following the upgrade paths is seriously the best way to go about building a DSM. Other people have already answered the questions you had.
 
Depending on the Intake you get u may have to buy other parts to have outlets to those connections. I reccomend K&N they have adapters for MAF and lines.
 
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