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AEM AEM V2 green top CAS with 24 tooth trigger disk Calibration settings

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wilderg88

10+ Year Contributor
70
1
Dec 14, 2008
Hialeah, Florida
need some help hoping someone can be of some help with my issue. i currently got a 24 teeth trigger disk for my green top cas but it dint come with any calibration settings for the aem V2 been trying all sorts of settings with no luck. hoping one of you guys is using a trigger disk and can help me with the aem Settings. thanks in advance!
 
this is for aempro. it shouldnt be too much different in tuner
 

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Do a before and after tune with the 24 trigger tooth trigger disc. Adjust coil dwell time and injector phasing if necessary because the 24 tooth disc can cause you to lose a lot of power and misfire badly.

I was using a Yoshifab 24 tooth trigger disc. The car sync almost instantly and start up like stock. It also ran like normal. However the dyno revealed a fault with the dwell time and injector phasing. I literally drop 100 hp with the 24 tooth trigger disc compared to the factory trigger disc and setting.

The Yoshifab trigger disc is nearly identical to the triggerdisc.com disc except the position of the cam signal slot is different. I don 't know if the cam slot was the causing the drop but I was able to gain back a lot of the power by adjusting the injector phasing and dwell time. It is like the setting from triggerdisc.com is not compatible with the Yoshifab trigger disc. Overall the factory trigger disc and setting made more power .

BTW. The triggerdisc.com setting is basically the injector phasing and dwell time for a MR2 or Supra.
 
Even with the trigger disk settings the car wont crank or even get a timing light signal. I'm using a Yoshi fab trigger disk as well. I'm getting no sync errors but i am getting timing errors.

Maybe its because its a Yoshi fab trigger disk?
 
I just installed one and just now came to notice the shift light no longer works in my car. It's just on all the time. What's the fix to that?

I checked or timing drift and I didn't have to adjust it was on point at 6000.
 
I just installed one and just now came to notice the shift light no longer works in my car. It's just on all the time. What's the fix to that?

I checked or timing drift and I didn't have to adjust it was on point at 6000.

Make sure you are getting power to the CAS. People wire it up wrong all the time. Check that and let me know.

You need to adjust the "tacho" setting. Depend on the tach you got, make sure to switch the wire on the tach.
 
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Ahh makes sense. Forgot about the tacho setting.

It was fine before it, didn't think of that. Cars running fine and all. I went in and did the setting for COP the first time and car wouldn't fire. Don't know if its because a setting (rising and falling) has to be changed on the dynatek. But on the regular "non cop" settings it's all good.

wilderg, did you try hooking up a car with jumper cables when trying to crank, and set timing? My timing light wouldn't work without a car hooked up.

So less power because of dwell, and injector phasing? Hmm seems my black top sensor is going back on LOL.

No luck with the shift light. Hooked to the white wire from the Power Transistor and the reading was off a couple hundred RPMs, hook it to the CAS wire at it thinks its at 9000 at idle.
 
I got to look but I believe you are suppose to come off one of the low side driver. I think it is low side driver 7 or 9. Then you have to tell the AEM ECU to drive that output. I will check tonight
 
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