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ACT clutch alternatives.....

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Well if you have 450HP then DEFINATELY get the 2600!

Just be sure to:

Have the flywheel surfaced to spec
Install new clutch fork and pivot ball
Install new throw out bearing and grease it up nicely


I reused my flywheel bolts and used blue loctite on them. There are aftermarket flywheel bolts available but not needed unless you have an aluminum flywheel.
 
peanotation said:
there's nothing to be afraid of. it's an installation issue, it matters on how you mate the tranny to the block. just make sure you're aligned with your dowel pins, and they're not missing. tons of people have done it in their garage and havn't had a problem

MNGSX said:
If those alignment dowels are missing that is what did it.

They line up the engine and trans.. The bolts just hold them together..

drive any brand of disk off center in a pressure plate you will break it in addition to putting a prety wicked side load on the crank and trans input shaft... So an out of alignment trans is hella bad.


Ill agree that SOME were of instalation error.. But what about the ones that wernt? My dowel pins were in... all bolts were there.... everything was right that i know of...






hmmmmmmmmmm......








..... thats why i started this thread.
 
MarsaGSX said:
I read most of the threads about clutches...and Iam little bit confused :confused:
Can you recommend to Newbie some type of clutch..
I wanna make 400+WHP .
I watched E-bay on ACT 2100 (326,-USD) and 2600(399,-USD)
E-bay is good for me because lot of sellers are sending to Czech republic.. :)

Next Q:
And how can I find out How much Bolt have my Flywheel?Have to take out tranny..Isn´t any other way?
Ride 2G 1995Eclipse GSX -Only ONE Eclipse AWD in my Country :cool:
Thank you guys,and sorry for Bad english OMG


look into the Slow Boy Racing clutch kit that is beeing discussed in this thread. itll give you all the holding power of the 2600 but with less pedal pressure... and it has a neat heat sink thing that comes with it.
 
Fattie92 said:
Ill agree that SOME were of instalation error.. But what about the ones that wernt? My dowel pins were in... all bolts were there.... everything was right that i know of...






hmmmmmmmmmm......








..... thats why i started this thread.



I dont think ACT's QC is so bad that all occurances are on them...

Also if they buy exeedy disk hubs they did'nt build them anyway... They just modified them..

IMHO

1. Trans dowels missing.
2. Overkill at launch...
3. bad part...
 
MNGSX said:
I dont think ACT's QC is so bad that all occurances are on them...

Also if they buy exeedy disk hubs they did'nt build them anyway... They just modified them..

IMHO

1. Trans dowels missing.
2. Overkill at launch...
3. bad part...


Im not saying that every disk that had failed is there fault. If you didnt put the dowel pins in... im sorry, but your a freakin retard and deserve to have it fail on you. But for all the people that know what they are doing, and installed it the right way, broke it in, and drive the car like a normal person (not launching at every red light).....i blame the QC ...but oh well, what happend, happend. But we can save this for another thread.
 
You can't launch at every red light.. You'd have an accident...

Launching every time it changes green would just wear it out not break the hub provided the dowels are in, not launching at a retardedly high rpm, and the disk hub was made right...

Sheps disks stay together... He does "soft" launch. An excessively hard launch run with 400hp has a higher peak forces than a soft launch with 1000hp...

I think a bad disk is possible... Every one that gets broken bad... NO...
 
If anybody can comment on how an average tranny shifts with a 6 puck or full face sintered iron disk I would like to hear that. That's one of my choices for the next clutch and shifting with this disk is a major concern to me since this material is considerably heavier than usual organic stuff. Thanks.
 
Fattie92 said:
look into the Slow Boy Racing clutch kit that is beeing discussed in this thread. itll give you all the holding power of the 2600 but with less pedal pressure... and it has a neat heat sink thing that comes with it.


Which one you think is better for me?.

Wanna make 450WHP...On Precision SCM T04
http://www.precisionturbo.net/turbochargers-display.php?company_id=101795&category_id=3024

3500 Heavy Duty Clutch Kit
-tested for 400whp.. - 399USD


-4000 Extreme Duty Clutch Kit
-tested for 600whp... -499USD

Both sounds good... and 100USD is too much :(
Thanks
 
If your car to pretty close to stock right now I would go with an ACT 2600. Because it will hold 450whp, but most likely buy the time you are making that you will need another new clutch. At that time if you feel you need a stronger clutch buy the SBR disk and install it with your 2600 pressure plate and that should be about equal to the SBR 4000 clutch.
 
I am surprised no one said anything about the SPEC clutches?!?

I currently use a spec stage 3 4-puck and loved it right up to the "incident", my differential exploded and the disc got soaked in tranny fluid :cry: :mad: I tried to save it, but it isn't the same now.


BUT, before that the clutch was super It has probably 10-12,000 miles on it and I could make it have a 1-2 second spin into third and chirp 4th sometimes. it never offered to slip at all. it was not exactly a street clutch, but I got used to the grabiness of it. although I would catch myself slipping the tires at a redlight thats uphill with a car close behind me ;)

now that I will have to get a new clutch due to the t4 turbo I just put on :thumb: I am giving the RPS 525 lb. torque. or the SBR 4000. not sure which one yet though.
 
snox135 said:
If your car to pretty close to stock right now I would go with an ACT 2600. Because it will hold 450whp, but most likely buy the time you are making that you will need another new clutch. At that time if you feel you need a stronger clutch buy the SBR disk and install it with your 2600 pressure plate and that should be about equal to the SBR 4000 clutch.

You seem set on ACT clutch so I agree with the above.
 
Jeff_Jeske said:
Well if you have 450HP then DEFINATELY get the 2600!

Just be sure to:

Have the flywheel surfaced to spec
Install new clutch fork and pivot ball
Install new throw out bearing and grease it up nicely


I reused my flywheel bolts and used blue loctite on them. There are aftermarket flywheel bolts available but not needed unless you have an aluminum flywheel.




What about Exedy Stage II clutch /Fidanza Flywheel..???
Guy tald me that this Ex stage II can hold 550HP on Flywheel..???DO it??
I will Pay for 718,-USD Total with shipping to Czech republic,Or Buy from SlowBoy racing SBR 3500/their flywheel for 1000?-USD Total incl. shipping.. 282USD difference...
And whole shipping is 250USD!!!

Don ´t know what to do.. know I want to make real PERFORMANCE...
VencaGSX
 
I just purchased the slowboy Racing 3500 clutch. if all goes well, ill be installing it this weekend.
 
Has anyone used any of these dual disc setups? I am interested in them and haven't found much info on them.If anyone has used one please let me know and if you suggest any brands let me know. I want to do a 2.4 swap with a 60 trim and really don't want to go with a 2600. Let me know what you think. Thanks
 
The dual disk is ok... I'd be concerned with input shaft bearing wear because its two disk hubs floppin around at the end of a shaft when the clutch is in all the way. DSM's have no pilot bearing.... That is my only concern. The flywheel the dual disk comes with and the pressure plate are billet aluminum it should disipate heat fast, last a long time and recover from launches fast.
 
looking at the slowboy clutch kits wondering what the differences are between the pressure plates of the 3500 & 4000.

or is it just the disk?
 
I have SBR HD 4000 and it's very streetable, same pressure as ACT 2100, very easy and you feel the clamping power. I'll say : great!
 
just a follow up.


emailed SBR and they said that the 3500 and the 4000 pressure plate is identical and that the only difference is the disc.

this is exactly what I have been looking for - a fully upgradeable clutch.
 
well i finaly got my SBR 3500 in the mail this week. It looks soooooooooo much nicer than the ACT. The center hub on the clutch uses 6 riviets instead of the 3 that ACT uses. I should have the car completly back togeather tomorrow....well see how she holds.
 
Fattie, thanks for keeping us up on your progress. I would like to know how your clutch set up turns out before buying one. :thumb:
 
myblack98gst said:
I am surprised no one said anything about the SPEC clutches?!?

I currently use a spec stage 3 4-puck and loved it right up to the "incident", my differential exploded and the disc got soaked in tranny fluid :cry: :mad: I tried to save it, but it isn't the same now.


BUT, before that the clutch was super It has probably 10-12,000 miles on it and I could make it have a 1-2 second spin into third and chirp 4th sometimes. it never offered to slip at all. it was not exactly a street clutch, but I got used to the grabiness of it. although I would catch myself slipping the tires at a redlight thats uphill with a car close behind me ;)

Glad someone mentioned it. We are all about Spec here. In all honesty ACT has been more trouble than it's worth lately so we just stopped offering them all together.

Anyway, we have been using Spec since before we even went into business. It is in everyone of our personal cars and our two competition cars. They provide 2100 pedal pressure and grab like no other. I would really recommend everyone to look into Spec before choosing a clutch. they are by far our best sellers and needless to say of the many many we have sold over the last couple of years we have NEVER had one come back.

Marti :rocks:
 
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