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ACT clutch alternatives.....

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RoasT BeeF, how streetable is that? I had a 2600 a while ago and it died so I threw the stock back in. Now I'm looking to upgrade. Is that more or less streetable than the 2600?
 
I'm amazed that the SBR clutch supposedly holds better and has less pedal pressure than an ACT2600. Sounds like a voodoo magic clutch to me.

Nobody else is questioning how it's possible for them to all of the sudden make a clutch better than one that has set and held the industry standard for so long?
 
The secret is in the disk. The CF claims to hold just about the same as a ACT 2600 with stock pedal pressure. This is because they use a much more aggressive disk than ACT.
 
RoasT BeeF said:
I had two ACT 2600's fail on me in 16k. I went with the exedy cerametallic 2160 3 puck. I love it, period. Out performs ACT in everyway.

Thats a good clutch. I have driven them in autocross cars and they are very decent.
 
beat90tsi said:
I'm amazed that the SBR clutch supposedly holds better and has less pedal pressure than an ACT2600. Sounds like a voodoo magic clutch to me.

Nobody else is questioning how it's possible for them to all of the sudden make a clutch better than one that has set and held the industry standard for so long?


That is one of the main reasons i started this thread... If you read what slowboy replyed to my questoins.. it might help out your questions.
 
Hows the price on the SRB compared to the ACT? Where did you get it from?
 
I read the reponses from slowboy, seems like all we know is...
-it's not made by exedy
-competition clutch can't provide any before and after temperature testing for this model
-Break in period is less than any other clutch on the market
-the center hub has twice as many rivets as an ACT center
-The disc is a lot softer material then what ACT uses
-We are going to be shipping Mitsu TOB's with the first initial shipments

Now
none of those explain the reduced pedal pressure to me...

snox135 explained that it's a function of the disk, which apparently has a higher coeff of friction

However I still have trouble with the "everything is roses" description of this new clutch.

I can't imagine ACT wouldn't bother to offer a higher friction disk for the 2100 for all the whiners who say the 2600 hurts their left leg if the solution is truly so simple.

I am just a bit hestitant to believe the claims, I'd like to see more reviews of it before it's plastered all over the intarweb that it is the new ubAr DSM clutch that outperforms the venerable ACT 2600.
 
you have some good points beat.

I mean no diss to SBR but ACT has been around awhile and alot of reviews came from it through the years.

But with a new competetor there is gonna be some questions left unanswered and only to be found out from experience.
 
beat90tsi said:
I read the reponses from slowboy, seems like all we know is...
-it's not made by exedy
-competition clutch can't provide any before and after temperature testing for this model
-Break in period is less than any other clutch on the market
-the center hub has twice as many rivets as an ACT center
-The disc is a lot softer material then what ACT uses
-We are going to be shipping Mitsu TOB's with the first initial shipments

Now
none of those explain the reduced pedal pressure to me...

snox135 explained that it's a function of the disk, which apparently has a higher coeff of friction

However I still have trouble with the "everything is roses" description of this new clutch.

I can't imagine ACT wouldn't bother to offer a higher friction disk for the 2100 for all the whiners who say the 2600 hurts their left leg if the solution is truly so simple.

I am just a bit hestitant to believe the claims, I'd like to see more reviews of it before it's plastered all over the intarweb that it is the new ubAr DSM clutch that outperforms the venerable ACT 2600.


i agree with you... Thats why i havent purchased it yet. I will be putting one in my friends car sometime in january... thats when ill get to determine if i want it or not..
 
From what I have seen from sintered iron friction material crotch rocket race brakes etc.... Get the SBR 4000.....

Also run a SSG Aluminum flywheel... The aluminum flywheel is another heat sink..
 
I will be installing a SBR disk with an ACT 2600 pressure plate in the next couple days. I never had any problems with my ACT's but the recent issue with springs breaking or coming out scares me enough to try something else. No break in time or not I will still give it a few hundred miles before I start to abuse it.
 
Just so everybody knows, i used to be an ACT or die type of guy and i still think they make very good products. Just lately, delivery time has been getting slower, there have been some questions of quality control with the discs and all though we have not installed a disc that has blown up, or dumped the springs, I HAVE TAKEN SOME FLAVORFUL EAR BEATINGS over the phone about some very disgusted customers who I sold ACT items to.

ACT will continue to make clutches, and so we will keep selling them, and our clutch because it's variety and thats what makes the world go round. I personally like this clutch better, but thats also because we had a lot of say in what goes into making it and the clutch guru's at competition clutch took it from there.

I'm sorry we never looked further into the before and after temperature testing. Competition clutch told us, "heat kills clutches, thats why we design them like this", this seemed like a pretty good idea and we move past it. We got our original kits about a year ago from them and put the 3500 in one shop car, drove it around for a few hundred miles, took it to the track launched the crap out of it on VHT on both big and little turbo's. We did the same with the 4000, but it's much less of a street clutch than the 3500. We also have been using these clutches in two of our dyno mules testing everything from evo 16G's to the venerable T67 and one other larger turbo for the SBR 4000 just to make sure it made good on it's claims. As far as how the clutch disc makes the difference in these clutches... I don't know. We don't build trannies, clutches, or other drivetrain parts for this reason. :thumb:
 
Spyke169 said:
RoasT BeeF, how streetable is that? I had a 2600 a while ago and it died so I threw the stock back in. Now I'm looking to upgrade. Is that more or less streetable than the 2600?

Its deffinetly less streetable than the ACT street disc. But its what I expected. Its more aggressive between shifts and takes some getting used to but I absolutly love it. My launches are WAY better than I EVER had with ACT. I highly recommend it.
 
Well this thread has me worried a bit.I bought a 2600 last year and act flywheel and now am a bit worried about the act disc.I have a few questions..So this slowboy disc will work with my 2600 plate.Will it still give a bit lighter pedal pressure than the full act 2600 set up with act street disc? And is it compatible with my new act flyweel with no machining.?

Also what about using the mits disc and act 2600 pressure plate..seen that combo sold also and was thinking maybe that would work good too.

And really ok so there are a few guys with act disc failures..it would be nice to have some kind of survey or something from people who are using it and now long and how many failures.I have talked to lots of guys that love this clutch and only now seen a few that have problems with the discs.So how common a fault is this really.The net has a way of making a few failures seem like a lot.

And how much is just the slowboy disc assuming its fully compatible with my act 2600 pressure plate and new act flywheel?
 
AL92 said:
Well this thread has me worried a bit.I bought a 2600 last year and act flywheel and now am a bit worried about the act disc.I have a few questions..So this slowboy disc will work with my 2600 plate.Will it still give a bit lighter pedal pressure than the full act 2600 set up with act street disc? And is it compatible with my new act flyweel with no machining.?

Also what about using the mits disc and act 2600 pressure plate..seen that combo sold also and was thinking maybe that would work good too.

And really ok so there are a few guys with act disc failures..it would be nice to have some kind of survey or something from people who are using it and now long and how many failures.I have talked to lots of guys that love this clutch and only now seen a few that have problems with the discs.So how common a fault is this really.The net has a way of making a few failures seem like a lot.

And how much is just the slowboy disc assuming its fully compatible with my act 2600 pressure plate and new act flywheel?


check out this thread for the ACT clutch failures.... http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=133330&highlight=act+fail
 
The SBR disk will not give your 2600 less pedal pressure.

Yes you can use it with your 2600 pressure plate and ACT flywheel (flywheel friction surface should be resurfaced when installing a new clutch).

Price the SBR disk is about the same price.

I'm still awaiting the arivial of my disk. So I cann't give any reviews yet.
 
I ran a Competition 4 puck clutch last season, it had very good street manners, and kicked ass at the track. I only took it there a handful of times, most of the 1600 miles was street driving, but it didn't give in at all. It's for sale, also :)
 
And oddly enough.....

Almost all the DSM people I know use the CFDF clutch. I have it as well. You do have to surface your flywheel to specs and you do have to break it in for 500 intown miles but after than it is VERY STREETABLE and holds plenty of power.

My neighbor has a 1G (forged 9:1 compression motor) with EVO16G@20PSI he also sprays a 100 shot of juice on this motor. The clutch holds that power without question and it has been doing so for a year. He launches the car at nearly every red light.
 
I read most of the threads about clutches...and Iam little bit confused :confused:
Can you recommend to Newbie some type of clutch..
I wanna make 400+WHP .
I watched E-bay on ACT 2100 (326,-USD) and 2600(399,-USD)
E-bay is good for me because lot of sellers are sending to Czech republic.. :)

Next Q:
And how can I find out How much Bolt have my Flywheel?Have to take out tranny..Isn´t any other way?
Ride 2G 1995Eclipse GSX -Only ONE Eclipse AWD in my Country :cool:
Thank you guys,and sorry for Bad english OMG
 
MarsaGSX said:

If you are stock meaning you dont have more than 250HP I would probably go with the cheapest clutch I could find. If you plan on making the car faster thats a different story. The 2600 is said to kill 7 bolt blocks but has been proven to be a very capable clutch even when abused. If I wasn't worried about crankwalk I would definately spend the additional $70 and get the 2600. Keep in mind the 2600 will cause a condition known as calficusmaximus (left leg will get huge and very strong due to heavy clutch pedal).

ACT clutches are known to have engagement issues and are problematic 50% of the time. I highly recommend the CFDF for all applications.
 
The 2600 is said to kill 7 bolt blocks but has been proven to be a very capable clutch even when abused. If I wasn't worried about crankwalk I would definately spend the additional $70 and get the 2600. Keep in mind the 2600 will cause a condition known as calficusmaximus (left leg will get huge and very strong due to heavy clutch pedal).



Well,you say that ACT 2600 is best deal for me? (450WHP)
I got strong feet :thumb:


ACT clutches are known to have engagement issues and are problematic 50% of the time. I highly recommend the CFDF for all applications.[/QUOTE]

Yes I read all of this thread...http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=133330&page=4&pp=25&highlight=act+fail
And I am very confused..They say it´s INSTALL problem...Problem with two dowel pins/sleeves on Engine Block...I am affraid to buy this "stuff"..What you think??
Thank you
 
MarsaGSX said:
The 2600 is said to kill 7 bolt blocks but has been proven to be a very capable clutch even when abused. If I wasn't worried about crankwalk I would definately spend the additional $70 and get the 2600. Keep in mind the 2600 will cause a condition known as calficusmaximus (left leg will get huge and very strong due to heavy clutch pedal).



Well,you say that ACT 2600 is best deal for me? (450WHP)
I got strong feet :thumb:


ACT clutches are known to have engagement issues and are problematic 50% of the time. I highly recommend the CFDF for all applications.

Yes I read all of this thread...http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=133330&page=4&pp=25&highlight=act+fail
And I am very confused..They say it´s INSTALL problem...Problem with two dowel pins/sleeves on Engine Block...I am affraid to buy this "stuff"..What you think??
Thank you[/QUOTE]


there's nothing to be afraid of. it's an installation issue, it matters on how you mate the tranny to the block. just make sure you're aligned with your dowel pins, and they're not missing. tons of people have done it in their garage and havn't had a problem
 
If those alignment dowels are missing that is what did it.

They line up the engine and trans.. The bolts just hold them together..

drive any brand of disk off center in a pressure plate you will break it in addition to putting a prety wicked side load on the crank and trans input shaft... So an out of alignment trans is hella bad.
 
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