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ACT 2100 & XACT flywheel COMBO?

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CRiXman

15+ Year Contributor
76
0
Nov 14, 2004
Vaud, Europe
Hello,

Firstly I have done research, of which I find I still haven’t got a ‘concentrated’ answer, to my satisfication.

My mind is set on purchasing an ACT 2100 Clutch kit with Street disk. Also I plan to combine this clutch with the XACT streetlite (11.6lbs) flywheel. I think it is a good idea to change the flywheel whilst the tranny is out.. (also I think it will be intelligent to replace the TOB with a new OEM one and change the rubber clutch line to a SS clutch line).

(FYI: my car has 65K miles, and needs the tranny to be revised, so I am taking this opportunity to change the clutch and most likely also flywheel)

Questions (especially to those having this combo or similar):

How is this combo?
Does the engine rev faster with this flywheel?
How does it feel compared to stock setup?

A lot of the threads out there say, ‘I just installed X or Y clutch and flywheel… happy with it, but still haven’t got the chance to push the Car, but I will let you all know once I do…’ Unfortunately they never update us on their progress.

Thanks for any experienced advise and info.
 
My GSX had a fresh 2100 in it with the XACT Chromoly when I bought it and I've been very happy with the performance thus far. I haven't had a chance to compare the spinup to a stock flywheel, but I can vouch for the fact that if you treat the clutch properly, it will last. The only thing it doesn't like is frequent launching at the track. If you plan on drag racing often you may wish to consider something more durable, but it should hold just fine for the vast majority of us and our mods.

Hope that helps,

Andy
 
Andy,

Thank you very much for the useful feedback! Appreciate it!

C.
 
I agree with Andy. I have driven an ACT 2100, 2600, and the SBR 3500 clutch and I like my 2600 best for grabbing. If I was never going to drag it, I would probably stick with a 2100 or SBR 3500.

I went from a stock clutch/flywheel setup to an ACT 2600 with XACT streetlite flywheel and as soon as I drove it, I noticed that it was way more responsive and RPMs climbed noticeably faster.

I've been daily driving it for almost a year now with no complaints on either. I've pushed my car hard many many times and went through 1 season of drag racing. Both have held up to the abuse just fine. I'd recommend it over a lightened stock flywheel.
 
I have just put my 2100 clutch kit in along with my stock resurfaced flywheel, and I love it. The clutch grabs real nice, and has amazing driveability, its a good combo, as I use my car as a DD. I didnt want the risks associated with a lighter flywheel, and dont know how the combo feels together, but I can assure you that a 2100 clutch kit and the stock flywheel work real well together.
 
I have the 2100 and xact flywheel like you are talking about. I love it. It grabs hard and revs a noticable difference faster. Good luck, I think you will be happy with it.
 
I want to thank you all for your feedback! I have definitely benifited from it, and hope that others with similar question do also.

I was doing some research on my side and asked friend mechanics about lightened flywheels. They told me something which makes me reconsider not getting a lightened flywheel. I think I have read a post about this on here as well, but can’t remember.

Apparently if one lightens a flywheel, one must also lighten the crankshaft as well. Then crankshaft then also must be balanced accordingly with the lightened flywheel. By not doing so could cause other problems (not sure exactly what). This is what I understood from their explanations..

Could some one be constructively supportive and/or critical about this statement?
 
CRiXman said:
I want to thank you all for your feedback! I have definitely benifited from it, and hope that others with similar question do also.

I was doing some research on my side and asked friend mechanics about lightened flywheels. They told me something which makes me reconsider not getting a lightened flywheel. I think I have read a post about this on here as well, but can’t remember.

Apparently if one lightens a flywheel, one must also lighten the crankshaft as well. Then crankshaft then also must be balanced accordingly with the lightened flywheel. By not doing so could cause other problems (not sure exactly what). This is what I understood from their explanations..

Could some one be constructively supportive and/or critical about this statement?


They are right to a point. Yes lightening the flywheel will take weight off one side of the crankshaft. I dont see how the lighted flywheel would put the motor out of balance as long as the flywheel itself is balanced. I believe that a motor is balanced by weighing each part and making sure they are equal with the other parts. This will be an interesting discussion...any other inputs?
 
Could this be the origin of crankwalk? In my humble mechanic knowleged mind, it seems logical.. especially if it unbalances the crankshaft.

I think it will be interesting to do a study: How many people who had crankwalk, had installed a lightened flywheel...

Maybe someone more experience could give a better explanation..
 
CRiXman said:
Could this be the origin of crankwalk? In my humble mechanic knowleged mind, it seems logical.. especially if it unbalances the crankshaft.

I think it will be interesting to do a study: How many people who had crankwalk, had installed a lightened flywheel...

Maybe someone more experience could give a better explanation..


I'd say it's not likely. I had crankwalk on my old 7 bolt, no lighted flywheel. Would make for a good poll.
 
CRiXman said:
Could this be the origin of crankwalk? In my humble mechanic knowleged mind, it seems logical.. especially if it unbalances the crankshaft.

I think it will be interesting to do a study: How many people who had crankwalk, had installed a lightened flywheel...

Maybe someone more experience could give a better explanation..

A lot of crankwalk cases were completely stock cars. Something I didn't know was that a bad clutch adjustment can cause "crankwalk"...this just happened to one of our cars last year and I know of 2 others that had the same problem, we all had 2100 or higher PP and were all FWD. I assume the stronger PP had a small hand in it, but the FWD thing is probably just a coincidence.
 
Some say that an upgraded clutch will cause crankwalk. I see the logic in their thinking. But what it comes down to is that mitsu made the thrust bearing out of crappy material and it wears easy. Loss of oil squirters is also said to be the cause, which may or may not be true. I havent read anything that explains crankwalk to a t. People have their own theories. On my old motor, it was the wearing of the thrust brearing.
 
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