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? About fuel system diagnostic check

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juntjoo

10+ Year Contributor
780
1
Sep 12, 2011
fort myers, Florida
So following Haynes instructions i'm checking the fuel system and the first thing it says is to listen for a whirring noise at the gas cap when you turn the ignition to the 1st position but i'm hearing nothing. So what does that mean, because my car runs, it's just doing so with some stuttering issues, especially with the AC going.

There are a bunch of other steps after, but i'm just curious what this means before I move forward
 
As a matter of fact, there are a million steps to diagnose my erratic idling, one of which is testing the fuel pressure which according to Haynes requires a tedious homemade fabricated adapter which I don't want to go about unless I should, so anyone experienced with this issue have any take on whether this is a good step to check this problem or should I check other things first?

on the list of things to check is the timing which should be good since I just did my timing belt replacing my head. I'm also supposed to check my injectors, compression, vacuum leaks... Anyone have a suggested order by which to go about these? Thanks.
 
Anyone? My car still starts, and actually just today started stalling, but an I wasting my time suspecting a bad fuel pump if the car runs? If the pump is bad, the car won't start correct? or could it have been slowly breaking down and eventually my car will go from stalling to not bring able to start at all?

Oh, almost forget to reiterate, I don't hear anything at the gas cap(with it off) though I've never performed this test, BUT I am not hearing anything at all, turning the key to on then zipping back to listen.
 
juntjoo said:
Anyone? My car still starts, and actually just today started stalling, but an I wasting my time suspecting a bad fuel pump if the car runs? If the pump is bad, the car won't start correct? or could it have been slowly breaking down and eventually my car will go from stalling to not bring able to start at all?

You check fuel filter?
 
juntjoo said:
Just replaced it
Sure it's the right way? Ugh injectors clean?

Well try your maf, unplug that and then in with out that. If it runs good it's maf. Remember gas,air,and spark. To make it run

Do you have any cel?
 
Yes, I just noticed the CEL. Came on a couple times momentarily when I started it I believe. Will keep checking and will check injectors and MAF.
 
MAF made no difference. CEL definitely on. Car now barely idles before death. Will look into checking injectors. Looked clean last time I checked but I didn't know what I was checking for...
 
Yeah try to read for the codes ASAP. that will help a lot. If its possible I don't know of any readers unless you or a friend has one. Auto zone has moved to obd2 yours being pre 96 I believe it has to be obd1.

Yes if you unplug the wire set on that black box(maf) on your intake and it runs way better. (Won't be like new because it will run off of the Ecu last know good setting. ) but if it runs better than its your maf.

When does this happen? Tell me, hot. Cold? Idle? When you let off the gas at a stop? Taking off? All the time? High rpm?
 
I'm reading this other thread on bad fuel consumption which my DSM also suffers from which most experienced suggest o2 sensor. Wonder if two issues could be related.

New spark plugs and wires, fuel filter, can't hear fuel pump whirring though... Disconnecting MAF made no good difference, CEL now on.
 
juntjoo said:
MAF made no difference. CEL definitely on. Car now barely idles before death. Will look into checking injectors. Looked clean last time I checked but I didn't know what I was checking for...

Well that cel means something. And if you happen to delete something (egr) or something put that in mind when you read codes. Post all sodas and I'll look at the mod list and tell u a list of what it could be. I'll tell you how to check them. I'll help you through this man. All DSM work together, in my mind.

Yeah your o2 would make it run like crap but I don't know about not running at all. Like dying and stuff
 
Well that cel means something. And if you happen to delete something (egr) or something put that in mind when you read codes. Post all sodas and I'll look at the mod list and tell u a list of what it could be. I'll tell you how to check them. I'll help you through this man. All DSM work together, in my mind.

Yeah your o2 would make it run like crap but I don't know about not running at all. Like dying and stuff

Dude, I appreciate that. I get way more help in here than I deserve. I just gotta help others as I get more experienced for all the help I've received. Anyway, I won't hold you to it but I will post all of my results here as I work through to get this damn car going strong for once since I bought it, though I do it for the journey/education also but I gotta use the thing too!

Checking codes is beyond this newbie, but someone just suggested I take it somewhere to get a free check or get my own coder scanner whatever those are called which sounds like a good investment but for now I'll take the free option and since you offered to help I'll definitely get some codes tomorrow. Too many variables apparently with this issue. Imma get me some codes...
 
Oh, and btw I've been hearing these weird random little clicking sounds at the throttle body. I'll have to pay attention more to the pattern. That means something doesn't it?
 
Yeah use I'm a month in and I got my over boost issue fixed that's about all but other than that I'm new and I know a lot about this stuff with in a month. Just got my DSM. And that month before I didn't even know how a turbo or mbc or ic or anything really worked. Now I'm helping.

Yeah as of my experience o'rylees has a tester. It's called obd1 and you give them your ID and they give you a plug. Being DSM
And obd1 you will need a Chevy plug. Make sure your cel is constant or it won't pick it up. Plug it in and keep the car off and keys out. Have it plugged in and hit the power. It'll boot the scanner. Flip your keys to acc. Not to start it! It'll scan and look through the codes. If you can't do it have one of them help you. Not that hard.
Right the codes down and put them up here with a mod list. Deletes, bolt ons. Anything from factory.

I'll help as much as I can. Also if we can't figure it out it might just need tuning or the timing is off. Might not look it but look up "crank walk" it'll explain. Me being on a iPhone, forumrunner I can't post links.

I can do pix and stuff. If u can't find it there or can't get it tested there try auto zone advanced auto parts and napa. If you do have to buy one I think obd1 is like 25-50 bucks I really dont know. Or if u want pm me. I'll help you there too.
 
Wait, these scanners, do they let you take em home or do you gotta drive there? I won't be taking the car out of my complex. And what is this ID and plug business?
 
No you can't leave with them. I don't know how bar really ## car is. Note: I'm not there LOL. But u can maybe buy one or you can maybe go to those places and ask if you give them your ID (driver license). If u can take it to your house. The plug on your scanner.( hand held tool to check for codes) will need a extra attachment that comes with the scanner to put on your car. Different makers, different plug.ex: ford-yellow DSM,Chevy- blue I believe ect.)
It's real simple if you need to get on here I'll post pictures if u really want me to.

That ticking noise.... Might be the tps (throttle position sensor) that might be what's bad. Got a multi meter or a dc meter?
 
Okay I'll figure out the scanner details. and I do have a multimeter, just bought it and can't wait to poke sh$! there just might be several culprits.
 
This is the multi meter I speak of. This you have 2 probes you check volts, oms. Text Electrical stuff.
If you or a friend or dad. Or work. Has one I could give you a link on the tps and testing.
 

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Does the car smoke or smell like gas?







What you want to do is take the tps out of your car. Well here's a link. Be careful of them wires tho on removal. Not that hard. You can do it just be careful. If you arnt confident with your self just buy a new one or have a shop test it. I bet that has a lot of your problem.

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/0/04/Fluke_87_III_True_RMS_Multimeter.jpg

Damit wrong like one second

http://www.plymouthlaser.com/tps.htm

There

Wait better way to test. Just unplug the tps. Should be right by or on ## tb

If you unplug the tps and it runs alittle better it's that
 
Hey thanks a lot. Falling asleep. Will get right on it manana. Haynes is saying something about my multimeter(voltmeter) can read codes??? This is getting suspenseful now.

And YES, fuel smell has been an issue since I bought it. I smell it outside on the drivers side maybe, but then again that is where I exit and enter the car. I just put on two compression fittings under my new fuel filter but fingers didn't wipe up any gasoline. I did a good job(pat on my back, wait that sounds ###). and my mechanic couldnt find a leak by looking underneath. So what does all this mean???.... A bunch of stuff falling apart?
 
You want to take a video with everything plugged in and everything . Start her up and just record the rpm. And post me a link or something. I think it sat for awhile and what happens most the time when it sits. Well the gas and oil eat the lines. Dryrot occurred. If u can now make a video or if u have a iPod or iPhone. And just do a FaceTime with me. I'll look now.

Never herd of a mm reading codes btw
 
Can't do facetime but I'll do a vid tomorrow. What would you look for in a video? I'll just do a tour
 
Well how it is running on a start. The rpm all the way through that. The clicking noise u hear. Your exhaust. Like to check for faint smoke. I know u say no smoke but I did t see any n mine and it was there. I could taste it. Noticed my rings were bad.

Anyway. Just that stuff. Maybe when running keep the rpm at a 2000 range or hit the gas and say when while holding camera to rpms. Just that stuff.
 
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