A lot of general questions

[drk mrk iv]

Hey all. Im new. I used to own a 2001 eclipse :thumbdown back in the day. The 6g72 was a hell of an engine. :laugh:
Anyways, I am going to be picking up a 1996-1999 GSX soon. It will be a project car. I have the garage space, and starting funds will total 1.5 grand with about 500 every month after that. Now assuming I am decent at working on cars (work on my friend's evo all the time) as well as a lot of other cars. I want to do a total overhaul short of tearing it down to the block and sending the block and heads to get resurfaced. Also, the shop that I get parts from gets me at cost, so they have a nice t3/t4 turbo sitting there for under 500 bucks. I don't know the specific specs, but would like to go with that turbo because I have heard good things from them.

So two questions really.

What do I need to do a total overhaul? Plug wires, spark plugs, vacuum lines, ect. ect. HKS metal headgasket worth it? What about replacing the valve springs and retainers while going a cam swap? Going to go with HKS 264/272 cams. What else would you recommend replacing/upgrading? Good BOV?

What all is needed for a full turbo swap? Sorry for such a vague question, but I am swamped and don't know where to start. I know bigger turbo, different manifold, bigger injectors, safc (is this all I need for tuning?), a differnt o2 housing? How about a front mount intercooler-if so how do the pipes fit the aftermarket turbo? What else?

Please direct me to any good guides and links! Also answering a few questions will help. I will continue researching and searching for my answers. Thanks!

 

[midnght]

2 things are needed first


Is this a track whore or street warrior?

What type of HP numbers are you looking at?

There are so many variants to the T3/T4 turbo selection. On one side you can get a good 350hp and the other could yield 500hp+.


After you give a answer for the 2 questions, are you looking for a complete Replace/Swap list. Or just ideas.

Many of us could come at you with a standpoint of "If this was my car I would do this!" But as stated this is your project and only you know what you are looking for.

 

[drk mrk iv]

Sorry about the lack of information. It wont be a track whore, but it deffinatly wont be a daily driver. Im looking for anywhere from 325-375 rwhp. What do you mean complete swap? I want to make it as reliable as possible while making good horsepower. As in... What parts are prone to screwing up while making power?

 

[midnght]

Sorry about the lack of information. It wont be a track whore, but it deffinatly wont be a daily driver. Im looking for anywhere from 325-375 rwhp....

Go ahead and fix that RWHP to awhp. It will save you alot of childish remarks. The car is dynoed with either an AWD dyno in a FWD mode. Never in RWD.


As for the 325-375whp, I am sure the correct T3T4 will give you those results. Hell I was there with my TDO6H 20G.

New manifold is not a must. Get the 2G manifold ported and you will be fine. Anything over the 720cc range will probly want a DSMLINK or STANDLONE to get it running great. It will run with an AFC, but better with DSMLINK. I suggest that if you get a 95-96 GSX since it will already have the EPROM for the Link.

A nice full exhaust 2.5" will work just fine, but if you have the money might aswell get the 3". You can leave the suspension alon if you are going AWD for now. The weak links in these cars are usually the transmissons after a certian amount of abuse. At the 350whp range you should be ok. You will def. want a newer clutch for the hp/tq numbers. I suggest a nice ACT. People have there preferences.

The FMIC, well, if I could do it over I would go with the AGP one. It is the shortest routed and will support what you are trying to throw at it.

Anymore questions and I wil be happy to reply.

 

[Jebus[tuning]]

. Im looking for anywhere from 325-375 rwhp.

teehee.

 

[drk mrk iv]

Ha sorry about the rwhp remark. I currently drive a mustang.

How many variations are there with the t3/t4?

For cams... Is it a good idea to replace the valve springs and retainers while Im at it? Cam gears good for HKS, or just for the other cams that can't get the specs right.

 

[midnght]

Might aswell. If you are going to go for it all, get the 272/272 combo. It is well worth it. Plus you will benifet from your new heads gear with the gaining of MORE power higher in the rpm range. It will allow you to go past the stock REV limiter and actually be getting some power.

The stock rev. limiter is around 7550-7650rpms. Depending on whos SAFC/DSMLink you are looking at. And with the stock head most everyone is not creating any "useful" HP with it beyond 6500rpm. It will start to fall on its face. The 264/272 is a good combo, but you WILL get more out of the 272/272 combo. Click HERE for a good reference on testing. Read the bottom. They are talking about the turbo you are wanting. I think most people that are running the HKS's are using the stock Gears. I might be wrong. I need to search that myself.

 

[drk mrk iv]

Hey thanks for the info. I'll read that link in a second. So these cams start to shine after 7grand? Will the rods and pistons like the newly raised rev limitor? And to what would I want to raise it to. 7.5? Are the stock heads going to like these cams?

 

[midnght]

Hey thanks for the info. I'll read that link in a second. So these cams start to shine after 7grand? Will the rods and pistons like the newly raised rev limitor? And to what would I want to raise it to. 7.5? Are the stock heads going to like these cams?

Well, they make it worth the upgrade. Since they are the same price go for the more power delivery since the car is going to be a sort of Street/Strip warrior. Best of both words will like the 272's better.

Alot of guys use the stock 1g head since it flows better than the 2G. But it has been proven that the 2G has more meat to be relieved in the port/polish process.

Do you want a motor buildup for the best DSM senerio or aftermarket parts senerio? There are motors out there that would blow your mind if you are coming from the V8 territory and are not expecting to see some great things.

 

[drk mrk iv]

Oh I know these little 4bangers have some hell of potentional. Frankly, modern V8s aren't too impressive and hard(er) to get power out of than a DSM. What would be a hell of a combination of parts for you? I would like to avoid tearing down the block and just make boost on stock internals. I wouldn't mind building the top end though.

 

[midnght]

Oh I know these little 4bangers have some hell of potentional. Frankly, modern V8s aren't too impressive and hard(er) to get power out of than a DSM. What would be a hell of a combination of parts for you? I would like to avoid tearing down the block and just make boost on stock internals. I wouldn't mind building the top end though.

I would go for a complete 1G/2G combo for both reliability and power.

The combo is basically this....

6bolt bottom end (2G is 7bolt) <===said to handle more crank HP
1G bigger rods
2G pistons
2G exhaust manifold (ported) or an EVO III manifold ported
1G Intake manifold
2G Throttle body elbow
1G Throttle body

The head all depends on how much money you want to spend on it. There are alot of variations. 1G or a ported 2G (the way the true DSM shops do it).

I say these cause they are easy and cheap to find.

Head work can vary aswell....EXAMPLES

1G Stock head
• Hot tanked
• Pressure checked
• 3 angle valve job
• New valve stem seals
• New stock valves
• New guides
• Stock springs and retainers
• Decked head surface
• New exhaust manifold studs

Stage I head
*This valve job is where we found the most airflow, and you get it even in the stage I head*
• Hot tanked
• Pressure checked
• Competition valve job
• New valve stem seals
• SS swirl polished, and undercut valves
• New guides
• Stock springs and retainers
• Decked head surface
• New exhaust manifold studs

Stage II head
• Hot tanked
• Pressure checked
• Competition valve job
• Mild port work
• New valve stem seals
• SS swirl polished, and undercut valves
• New guides
• Stock springs and retainers
• Decked head surface
• New exhaust manifold studs

Stage III head
• Hot tanked
• Pressure checked
• Competition valve job
• Stage III port work
• New valve stem seals
• SS swirl polished, and undercut valves
• New guides
• Stock springs and retainers
• Decked head surface
• New exhaust manifold studs

Stage IV head
• Hot tanked
• Pressure checked
• Competition valve job
• Stage IV port work
• New valve stem seals
• SS swirl polished, and undercut valves
• New guides
• Crower springs
• Titanium retainers
• Decked head surface
• New exhaust manifold studs

Stage V head
*Highest possible flow from a stock size valve! Over 283.4 CFM on the intake side*
• Hot tanked
• Pressure checked
• Competition valve job *PLUS*
• Stage V port work
• New valve stem seals
• SS swirl polished, and undercut valves
• New guides
• Crower springs
• Titanium retainers
• Decked head surface
• New exhaust manifold studs

Stage VI head
*This head is intended for racing applications, and very little street use. Take the stage V head, add more port work, and 1mm oversize nitrided valves*
• Hot tanked
• Pressure checked
• Competition valve job *PLUS*
• Stage V port work
• New valve stem seals
• 1mm over nitrided, polished, and undercut valves
• New guides
• Crower springs
• Titanium retainers
• Decked head surface
• New exhaust manifold studs


After that you can just replace things with the choice you want.

 

[drk mrk iv]

Damn. Well how much can the stock bottom 7 bolt end hold? Horsepower wise? I'll probably be more interested in building the top end. Unless I can't get jack shit for power without the rods being thrown or something like that.

 

[midnght]

You are safe with the stock bottom end for those WHP goals. The difference between the 2 are around 30hp. With the 6 being able to hold more.


The head work is all up to you.

I know this guy shifts at 8k with this work done.....

• 92 unported head
• Crower valve springs
• Crower titanium retainers
• HKS 272/272 cams
• Mitsubishi metal headgasket
• ARP head studs