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a few stupid tuning questions

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solojetsetter

Probationary Member
8
0
Dec 23, 2012
castle rock, Washington
Hey guys whats up? Im pretty new to dsms and this forum but ive been tunning cars for some time mostly hondas and Toyotas. Anyways I just bought this 91 laser turbo and it has a bunch of mods but my question is about the maf. I have a chipped ecu and it has an evo 8 maf. I was thinking about purchasing a 1g maf translator for a hundred bucks and a 3 inch gm sensor but doI need to get a new chip as well? Also, the guy put a block off plate in the idle control valve body and siad it had a fiav bypass? Idles really bad and almost dies when I let off the throttle. Anyways I took out the plate and now it idles at like 3k and I cant change it at all. Any help is appreciated. Thanks
 
For the FIAV to work correctly the coolant lines to the throttle body need to be reconnected as well. Also make sure that the gasket for the FIAV is in good condition, otherwise you could have coolant enter your intake. After doing that, I would ensure that your ISC is functioning properly and then attempt to perform this procedure to properly set your idle:

Proper Idle Adjustment

Search on the forums for "idle problems" or "idle seeking" and a huge list of threads will show up for diagnosing idle problems.
 
O ok so if I dont hook up the coolant at all it wont work? And does anyone know if I need a new chip or not? Thanks for the info
 
O ok so if I dont hook up the coolant at all it wont work? And does anyone know if I need a new chip or not? Thanks for the info

If you unblock FIAV, then you must reconnect coolant lines. See, inside FIAV is a thermostat like air valve. When cold, valve is open and lets air bypass the throttle plate, hence your 3K rpm idle. Once you reconnect the coolant lines, valve will close as coolant temperature rise. Make sure FIAV does not leak coolant. Perhaps it was blocked off because it was leaking coolant?

I think you should be able to adjust your idle without unblocking FIAV by following links mentioned earlier. Try backing out BISS adjustment plastic screw a full turn and see what happens.

When you say ECU is chipped, are you referring to DSMLink? If yes, then you can fine tune your idle under different conditions.
 
Not too sure but I think its not ecm link. I can take the ecu out and see but I think its just a custom base eprom from somebody on the forum. Thats what the last owner told me anyways.
 
If possible, find out what the chip is. Could just be an injector tuned chip. If you have larger then stock, that's how the ecu can run them.
Seeing you are in Washington, it would be a good idea to hook your fiav back up, if you still have the parts available. Helps with the cold starts.
The EVO maf is better flowing then the 1g unit. The maft replaces the EVO unit, but, you really need to know what the chip is. Catch 22. Ask the po where he got it or why its there. Take the ecu out and look. It's real easy. You might get lucky and have a tag on it.
 
Ok I will re connect the water pipes and check the idle screw. Its not supposed to rain here on Friday so ill do that then. But as to my bov venting. Do I have to get a gm and translator if I want to vent, or can i do it with the evo maf?
 
I too have a similar problem. I just bought a decently modified 90' talon tsi awd. On cold starts, it will start at 1k rpm's for about 3min, then bounce between 550-650 rpm's for about 5min and then return to normal idle at 800/850 rpm's (warmed up). If i try to drive the car before its warmed up, when I go into neutral the rpm's will bounce heavily then the car will die. When I turn the car back on and try again, the same thing will happen. Now this has happend on warm starts as well so im a bit confused.
There is a translator in the car but i am unsure how to use it. Any solutions?
 
It depends on what the guy did on the chip for the 8 maf. If it is set to think it is a stock maf then it will work fine. You may just need to wire the stock plug back on your harness to accept the translator.
 
I have an adapter plug for the maf so thats not an issue. So im ptetty sure ill need a new chip but is a hundred bucks a good deal for a translator and the gm mass? The Translator is missing the cover and the wires were cut to install it inside the cabin(not sure why) but otherwise looks clean and easy to splice the wires back and all plugs are present. Thanks
 
Ok makes sense. I was reading about the maft tuning on this forum and it said that u turn dials and dips to compensate for bigger injectors and what not on the maft unit, so do I still need a chip for biggier injectors or should I get a stock base map? I think the guy that did my chip now is pneumo here on dsm tunners (thats what the last owner told me) maybee he could tell me?
 
Ok makes sense. I was reading about the maft tuning on this forum and it said that u turn dials and dips to compensate for bigger injectors and what not on the maft unit, so do I still need a chip for biggier injectors or should I get a stock base map? I think the guy that did my chip now is pneumo here on dsm tunners (thats what the last owner told me) maybee he could tell me?

That's correct. You pretty much dial in your injectors with the dials, and trim your fuel with the low, mid, and high dials. The switches are to set up which size gm maf and fuel cut.

If pneumo remembers what's on the chip, you might be able to send him the chip and he could let you know. A stock tuned chip would be easier for you to tune the maft box, because it catches the air signal from the maf sensor, and tricks the computer about the amount of air coming into the engine. It then adjusts the reading, from the sensor, to what you have the dials set for, and passes the modified signal to the ecu.

Now, if you have a stock chip, its all good. If your chip is programmed for bigger injectors, you are going to have problems getting it to run right. A modified chip is going to have different dead times and injector cc size.
So you have to find out what's on the chip, or put in a stock chip and wire the maft in.
 
Ok I did the biss thing so I think my idle issue is fixed. Thanks for the help. Now about the maft. Can anyone tell me which version translator I have? It has no lid so it doesnt say. Everyone says adjust the base mid and wot but there is only two dials for spark and two dials for maf then only one dial for aux. The two dials say base and wot. I will post a pic if I can. Also my maf says ac air meter. Is this a gm maf? Thanks
 
By the way I asked the guy I bought it from and he said he thinks its version 2.5 but I want to make sure
 
I'm REAL close to you...

I'm sure if you wanted to Email me and get in touch, I could pull the chip and take a look an see how it's setup or the tune if you have something else.

Either way,
If your Chip is setup for a Evo maf it's going to need the Maf Comp & scaling all changed as the MAF-T is expecting the Ecu to be looking for a Stock 1g Maf signal and that's what it will be sending out no matter what version it is. If you look at the chip in the MAF-t it should tell you what version it is of maf-t an will dictate how you set it up.

I have an Ostrich, chip burner and/or Dsmlink/Ecmlink Cables etc. all on hand
So regardless what you need done I could be of help and even get you dialed in perfect if you wanted. and look over everything an address anything else that needs to be :thumb:
 
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