2G A few questions about my 2G

[Devon Pack]

I just went and got a built talon tsi with a 1g motor. It has a 14g turbo, and its running 14lbs of boost. I don't currently have a list of everything done to the car, but will soon update it and put it up, but from what he told me I believe the car could hold up to more boost. Also he tried telling me the rev limiter is set at 5500 but that makes no sense to me. I haven't gotten to drive it because it's not titled yet I'm just kind of wondering about that. It has sense just been rebuilt, should I drive it easy for a certain amount of time to break the car in? Any responses are greatly appreciated.

 

[Chumpaumpalumpa]

Was he saying 2-step is at 5500? If it was just rebuilt he might be on low boost for break in. I like the motoman break-in method:
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

 

[Devon Pack]

Honestly I don't know, I think the guy didn't really know what he was talking about but, my motor has 50 miles on it. he tried telling me that, but he ran it to 6000 with me in it. So I don't think he knows what he's doing with it. I don't think the car has 2 step. Also I have an avc-r apexi, which is a boost controller and has 3 different settings correct? But he said it had a manual boost controller.

 

[91stocker]

No offense but theres a couple red flags here. Doesnt sound either of you know much about the car and you probably got hosed. Everyone says "fresh rebuild" when they're selling off a broken car.

That 5500 rpm break up is probably fuel cut.

There is no 14g turbo, theres a 14b or a 13g. Both are stock turbos, which seems odd to have a "built" motor with a stock turbo.

I'd do all the initial maintenance items first then a boost leak test and a compression check. Odds are if you're banging off fuel cut that engine is very "broke in".

 

[Devon Pack]

It didn't cut out at all that is just what the guy tried telling me which threw up a red flag for me, also yes I don't know much about the car but I know the rebuild is legit because there are receipts and dates. It was done at a shop. The car came from a very good friend who raced the car and has sold him other race cars. I came here to learn a little about the car.

I'm sorry it's a 16g turbo.

 

[Maes]

Why don't you post some pictures

 

[Devon Pack]

I'm not currently with my car I have one picture. I can post the car is at a relatives, because I have no where to put it.

Here it is.

 

[Chumpaumpalumpa]

There is no 14g turbo, theres a 14b or a 13g.

Yes there are they came on the Starion/Conquest. The 14g compressor flows the same as the 14b compressor. But the 14g is SLIGHTLY more efficient.

 

[Devon Pack]

Also my car is running rich, and fluctuates from 1300 to 1700 at idle. And won't go under that after it warms up or nothing it has a brand new fuel regulator, I was wondering if that could have anything to do with it?

 

[Dsmkauai]

Is it a adjustable regulator?

 

[Chumpaumpalumpa]

OP if its an adjustable regulator, fuel pressure may be too high.

 

[Devon Pack]

Yes it's adjustable, and no its a 6 bolt 1g motor. 2g shell, but thank you chump.

 

[Devon Pack]

Also chump, your break in method is just run it like its going to be ran after the first oil change? That's pretty much what I got from your link.

 

[91stocker]

Guess i jumped to conclusions after reading the op. The car looks nice anyhow.

 

[Chumpaumpalumpa]

Also chump, your break in method is just run it like its going to be ran after the first oil change? That's pretty much what I got from your link.

Not quite, You're not beating on the car or anything. It's a very methodical approach that must be followed as strictly as possible. Look at the part where he talks about breaking in on a dyno. Go on google maps and plan a route that will not be busy at whatever time. You do NOT want to get stuck in traffic. Maybe start at 11PM on a secluded back road. If a 2 lane highway is available and empty then use that. Use conventional NON-SYNTHETIC oil and warm the car up to full operating temperature. Then run the car per his instructions (without the cooldown between runs) in 3rd gear for the lower RPM stuff, and maybe 2nd for the higher RPM stuff so you do not exceed the speed limit. Once you make it through the initial break-in process (20ish miles), CHANGE YOUR OIL AND FILTER. Then change again AT 100 miles. and again AT 200. Then again AT 400. then 800. then 1500 and use what oil you like and usually run. You do not want to get stuck on the highway during these first 400 miles. You do not want the RPM to remain constant for very long. The more variation the better.

SUMMARY:
Plan out clear route. Do some scoping out of potential areas at times you plan to run to make sure that no one will be there to complain.

Fill 'er up with some conventional Petroleum Valvoline Oil. 10w-40 weight is recommended.

Ideally have a buddy tow you out to the spot and warm the car up to full operating temp.

(Assuming the standard 7000RPM Redline) Get into 3rd and go half throttle from 2,800 RPM to 4,200 RPM and let it coast back down to 2,800 RPM (don't use brakes, let the engine do all the work, this is ESSENTIAL for proper engine break-in) and repeat 3 times. On the 3rd run after it has coasted back down to 2,800 RPM, go 3/4 throttle until 5,600 RPM (around 60 MPH) and let it coast back down to 2,800. Repeat this 3 times. Then on the third run of that, let it run down to 2,100 RPM and go full throttle all the way to 7,000 (about 80 MPH), let off, and let it coast down to 2,100 RPM. Repeat this 3 times. To sum this paragraph up:
3x @ 1/2 throttle from 2,800-4,200 RPM
3x @ 3/4 throttle from 2,800-5,600 RPM
3x @ Full throttle from 2,100-7,000 RPM

Change oil and filter. Use same conventional oil.

Change oil and filter @ 100 miles. Use same oil.

Change oil and filter @ 200 miles. Use same oil.

Change oil and filter @ 400 miles. Use same oil.

Change oil and filter @ 800 miles. Use same oil.

Change oil and filter @ 1500 miles. Use Synthetic oil of your choosing.

During the first 400 miles, do NOT let the engine sit at a constant RPM while driving. Up shift and downshift and change throttle and load on the motor constantly, but smoothly. Do NOT use Synthetic oil during the break-in process, and up until the 1,500 mile mark. Once you are there, you are good to go.

It sounds excessive and like a pain, but it works, and it works well and keeps metal from burying into bearing surfaces. This translates into less friction and more reliability and power! It keeps blow-by to a minimum which keeps acids out of the oil. This lets the oil do its go properly. It keeps it cleaner with less break-down.

 

[Devon Pack]

I was told it already has 50 miles on it. That being said I should change my oil, and should I strain my oil and check for shavings, because when the guy took me for a ride he went pretty hard on it.

 

[Chumpaumpalumpa]

He might have done you a favor on accident then and yes you should.

 

[Devon Pack]

Well I live in Ohio. I can take a trip to west Virginia that I know pretty well I'd say it's the best bet for not getting stuck in any traffic. After I'll change my oil.

 

[Chumpaumpalumpa]

Change your oil first. Just make sure you keep those RPMs fluctuating.